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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #1
hey all,

i am lookin to buy some 10w6's and i cant figure out what amp i should get...i was lookin into the jl 500/1 amp but is it able to be hooked up with the 2 subs....any imput would be appreciated.

thanks
Drew
 

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Computer Geek
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Low_99 said:
hey all,

i am lookin to buy some 10w6's and i cant figure out what amp i should get...i was lookin into the jl 500/1 amp but is it able to be hooked up with the 2 subs....any imput would be appreciated.

thanks
Drew


if you'r going with 2 10w6v2's then i would definately suggest 1000/1 amp by jl. i have that exact setup and it sounds awesome in my truck. if u want pm me for info on purchasing this amp and any jl.
 

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Too damn old for this sh*
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well... if you wanna stick w/ JL I'd say stick w/ the 500/1... the w6's are rated at 400w RMS.. the 500/1 is underrated. Guy at the local shop measured mine at 608w RMS on an oscilloscope.

It's been my experience that overpowering a sub is a BAD idea. I'd say use a sub that can take more than you're gonna run to it. If you want a 1000/1... get w7s or subs rated to take that much power... my w3v2s are rated at 250RMS and I've already had problems w/ over excursion while keeping the gains all the way down.

Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert, just offering an opnion/ advice from my personal experiences...
 

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Always Dreamin Big
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JL subs are rated very conservativly, so I would go with the 1000/1 for the extra head room. Even if the 500/1 puts out 600 rms, that's still underpowering each sub by 100 watts from their rating, plus the fact that they are underrated.

I JL rep posted how they find their power handling numbers a few years back on caraudioforum.com . It's stuck with me since I learned it.
They play the subs at a constant power level for 8 hours at a time. Whatever amount of rms they can last take for 8 hours without blowing is the number they start with. They then divide that by 2, and then round down the the next closest 25.

So my old 8W-0 is rated as 75 rms, but in reality I could probably put 150+ into it. I ran it on a 90 rms amp and a 85 rms amp for a while. When I got my big Rockford (~600 rms) I could tweak it to get much, MUCH louder than the little amps could, long before distortion or over-excursion would occur. One of the car audio magazines tested the 15W-3 years ago and pumped 1000 rms into it and said it seemed to handle it fine. That's a sub that's rated at 250 rms.
 

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Too damn old for this sh*
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SMN, like I said, I'm a novice at best, but one of my subs was making a "poping noise" that I diagnosed as the voice coil slapping the magnet... caused by throwing too much power at the subs ann the subs consequently moving the suspension too far.

One cause might have been having the boxes over stuffed... (the boxes were a little undersized so I stuffed em... and then stuffed some more:D) so I took some out, but the damage was already done... My right sub has been fine however... The left sub is currently being repaired by JL...

Anyway, I still like the subs but may go w/ some 10" w6s or some eclipse 10" SW8102DVCs or some eclipse 10" SW9102s in the near future...
 

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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter #11
ok so i can use this amp....does someone have a wiring diagram i could use for this setup...or a link to a diagram?

thanks
Drew
 

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well that depends on wether the subs are dual or single voice coils, and on what ohm the subs are rated at.. ie: are they 2 ohm, 4ohm, etc... ?

JL subs are "idiot proof" in that they have a regulated power supply. They "adapt" to whatever load is presented. However, you still need to make sure your subs and their wiring don't present a load lower than 1 ohm.
 

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Pharacyde said:
JL subs are "idiot proof" in that they have a regulated power supply. They "adapt" to whatever load is presented. However, you still need to make sure your subs and their wiring don't present a load lower than 1 ohm.
:wtf:
 

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I think he means JL amps are idiot proof. I just bought a cheap but very effective amp (Drove 4 12's really well) and it says not to use a load under 4 ohms. It has to do with output transformers not being as efficient under a certain ohm load, or downright destructive even. It's like putting a Honduh engine in a semi. The engine is the amp, the load is the speaker. It's hard to explain, but in guitar amplifiers and cabs the amp and speaker both have to be *exactly* matched or you will destroy your amp or speakers. There is usually a switch on the back of amp heads that allow you to specify 4, 8, or 16 ohms, 8 and 16 being the most popular. I think he is saying you can put any load on a JL amp so long as it's not under 2 ohms. My amp is the same way but it's 4 ohms rated, but it's 1,600 watts so it's different than his I'm sure. A 2 ohm load is like a Honduh chassis. Now if you put a blown 500 cid top fuel dragster engine in sai dHonduh frame, the Honduh frame is going to get torn up. It's pretty much the same premise. More or less :guitar:
 

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I like my memphis kd 1000's, and they're definately the best bang for your buck! I'm powering 4 15" fosgate he2's with only 2 kd 1000's and it frickin hammers! No wall in a 4 door s-10 with 4 15's = 156.3!
 

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Pharacyde said:
well... if you wanna stick w/ JL I'd say stick w/ the 500/1... the w6's are rated at 400w RMS.. the 500/1 is underrated. Guy at the local shop measured mine at 608w RMS on an oscilloscope.

It's been my experience that overpowering a sub is a BAD idea. I'd say use a sub that can take more than you're gonna run to it. If you want a 1000/1... get w7s or subs rated to take that much power... my w3v2s are rated at 250RMS and I've already had problems w/ over excursion while keeping the gains all the way down.

Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert, just offering an opnion/ advice from my personal experiences...
I have a bunch of oscilloscopes. Do you know what they used for a load and their methods of testing? A 1,000 watt 2 ohm resistor? You probably don't know, but did they use a 10 or 100x attenuation probe.. Sorry, just seeing if you know.
 
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