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totalled....
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how many watts does the stock stereo push out, i just want to make sure im not going to blow my new ones... i have the stock stereo, but brand new speakers... thanks
 

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trust me you wont blow a thing cause the stock one has very low watts so the only way you might blow them is if you have worse speakers than the stock ones but you will be fine
 

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totalled....
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Discussion Starter #3
thanks! and no, i didnt go lower than stock... ha, stock sucks enough... but im getting some jl's soon...
 

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The stock stereo only puts out a few watts to the factory speakers, It would have more output to aftermarket speakers due to the fact that aftermarket speakers have a lower impedance. Factory is about 6-10 ohms, aftermarket 3-4 ohms. Just so you know, power isnt what blows speakers, distortion is. Its very much possible to blow out aftermarket speakers with a factory radio.
 

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laynlow03xtreme said:
The stock stereo only puts out a few watts to the factory speakers, It would have more output to aftermarket speakers due to the fact that aftermarket speakers have a lower impedance. Factory is about 6-10 ohms, aftermarket 3-4 ohms. Just so you know, power isnt what blows speakers, distortion is. Its very much possible to blow out aftermarket speakers with a factory radio.
So I could put 10,000w to a tweeter and it wouldnt blow?

Yes, power can blow speakers.
 

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blacksls00 said:
So I could put 10,000w to a tweeter and it wouldnt blow?

Yes, power can blow speakers.
turn down the gain? u aint gonna blow it..
i dunno, i'll let adam take this :D
 

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03 S10 eXtreme said:
turn down the gain? u aint gonna blow it..
i dunno, i'll let adam take this :D
Hehe. :p

Power compression and thermal capabilities come into play.
A drivers suspension can only handle so much power before it overexcurts itself.

Also, a driver can only release so much heat, before it melts itself. You have to remember, the driver gets hot, and all those "gimmicks" you see, like on Pioneers and whatnot, they can only release so much heat before things get too hot.
 

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blacksls00 said:
Hehe. :p

Power compression and thermal capabilities come into play.
A drivers suspension can only handle so much power before it overexcurts itself.

Also, a driver can only release so much heat, before it melts itself. You have to remember, the driver gets hot, and all those "gimmicks" you see, like on Pioneers and whatnot, they can only release so much heat before things get too hot.
oh okae i sorta see wut ur sayin..heh i learned something :D
hrmm..my SE's must be able to get super hot then cuz i run em hard. all day long..well that was wen i had my amp workin lol
wen i had em runnin(i clipped the amp to it's death)..at the end of the day..i would feel how hot the amp and subs become..the amp would be warm and then i touch the cone of the subs..they'd be a little warm..so if just the cone is warm then it must be pretty hot inside.
 

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Well, 1200w wont do anything to a pair of 10"s, thermal wise.

They can dissipate that much heat, somewhat easily. Its when you get like 5k watts. Bigger drivers/suspensions can handle more watts/heat.
 

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blacksls00 said:
So I could put 10,000w to a tweeter and it wouldnt blow?

Yes, power can blow speakers.
Be realistic bro. I've only seen a handful of speakers come back do to power issues. Most of the time the speakers are blown because of the distortion being sent to them, ie, bass cranked on the radio. My point is, say a speaker says 35 watts rms on it, that doesnt always mean it can take 35 watts. If you have an amp with 10% thd (which i know is not realistic), I know those speakers wont hold up at that power. At the same time, you could take a 50 watt rms amp that has .000000000009 thd, and be fine. Guess what, the factory radio isnt clean power.
 

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would it be wiser to over power your speakers a bit so that you would have more clean power to work with before the amp distorts?
 

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Kickin' Crew Cab
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Having power is cool.....BUT, having the current to feed the amps is another story. To calculate draw:

(Watts x 2) divided by voltage input = current draw
Example:

1200 watt amp x 2 = 2400 divided by 12.6 volts = 190.48 amp current draw. It is hard as you can see to put a big enough alternator on your car, so the answer is to have enough battrery. When you dont give the amp what it needs it produces distortion and (possibly blow it up, amp and speaker)
 

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Star said:
would it be wiser to over power your speakers a bit so that you would have more clean power to work with before the amp distorts?
you gotta make sure your gain is not set too high. Contrary to what most people think, the gain is NOT supposed to be used as a volume control. It is used to match the imput levels with the output levels. Also, certain head units can produce a clipped signal when driven too hard. When you try to drive your system harder than it can go, clipping can occur. This is common in systems that are underpowered. So a simple solution to that, is to use products that are higher powered. Because you can always turn the output on your amp down. But, you can NEVER turn it up more than what it is capable of. Also make sure you are using a quality product. The cheap stuff is like that for a reason. :D
 

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03 S10 eXtreme said:
you gotta make sure your gain is not set too high. Contrary to what most people think, the gain is NOT supposed to be used as a volume control. It is used to match the imput levels with the output levels. Also, certain head units can produce a clipped signal when driven too hard. When you try to drive your system harder than it can go, clipping can occur. This is common in systems that are underpowered. So a simple solution to that, is to use products that are higher powered. Because you can always turn the output on your amp down. But, you can NEVER turn it up more than what it is capable of. Also make sure you are using a quality product. The cheap stuff is like that for a reason. :D
:stupid: Nice post bro

93ex said:
Once you reach the Physical limits of a speaker, its over.
Yes overpowering and distortion CAN kill speakers. Most likely your factory headunit will not destroy your new speakers
 

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KCustom said:
Having power is cool.....BUT, having the current to feed the amps is another story. To calculate draw:

(Watts x 2) divided by voltage input = current draw
Example:

1200 watt amp x 2 = 2400 divided by 12.6 volts = 190.48 amp current draw. It is hard as you can see to put a big enough alternator on your car, so the answer is to have enough battrery. When you dont give the amp what it needs it produces distortion and (possibly blow it up, amp and speaker)
Thats *Peak* current draw however. You will almost NEVER see that.
What you should be worried about, is average current draw. I've seen people still 2000w DEI amps on stock Civic 70amp alts and was good to go.

I'm goin to quote a pretty well known guru from CAF on this very post.
Bear in mind the dramatic differences between peak current draw (the current draw that can happen during brief transients, bursts) and the average current draw (the average of the current draw over time).

Amp fusing largely corresponds to the peak current draw, which isn't representative of what your alternator would need to support. Peaks can exceed the 200a mark easily.
That same system, on average, might only draw 20a-30a when averaged over time, playing music.

If you consider you'd probably want to leave 30a-40a worth of "electrical headroom" so that you can blast the A/C, drive with the rear defogger on, high-beams on, etc...

Then, do you "need" a 70a alternator to support all that and this monster sound system, or a 250a alternator?

It's the average current draw that you need to consider.
Only when you exceed that, do you exceed your alternator and battery's ability to work together to support your vehicle's electrical needs.

And btw... in my example above, you'd need a 250a alternator (and one that could do 250a at idle! ) to actually eliminate headlight dimming.
Given the significant horsepower and even fuel efficiency losses that this inherently large drag on the motor (all the time) would create - not to mention it's expense and installation expense - is it worth it to you?
That's the question you need to ask yourself.

Headlight dimming isn't a problem after all, that simply naturally happens during those transients where the alternator and battery need to work together to provide the electricity (as opposed to the alternator providing it solo).
 

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laynlow03xtreme said:
Be realistic bro. I've only seen a handful of speakers come back do to power issues. Most of the time the speakers are blown because of the distortion being sent to them, ie, bass cranked on the radio. My point is, say a speaker says 35 watts rms on it, that doesnt always mean it can take 35 watts. If you have an amp with 10% thd (which i know is not realistic), I know those speakers wont hold up at that power. At the same time, you could take a 50 watt rms amp that has .000000000009 thd, and be fine. Guess what, the factory radio isnt clean power.
Thats fine and dandy. 50w wont cause power compression or excess heat.

If you would have read my other posts, you would have seen thats what I was talking about.

How often have you put 2000w+ to a speaker? Then how could you possibly know what I'm talking about? You cant.

Plus you said, "power doesnt blow speakers". When, it very much so can.
 
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