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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I did check in the 4 banging catagory, all threads were old enough to enlist. Second did scour the net trying to find this answer.
The engine is fully disassembled w all new internal components. The main bearing caps are there, who ever took it apart did not mark the caps in sequence, less rear main and center saddle (dummy proof) all have a face forward arrow, w small cast gm logo w 12 15 and 20 on three of them. Anyone actually know this answer? The rest I pretty much got.
 

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1995 S10 2.2 liter 5 Speed 2wd RCSB
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618 Posts
I have Pictures of my 2.2 when I was re-assembling before I put the oil pan on, I just looked at them, Blurry! I could only make out my cave man engravings. It's been almost 6 years But
I only recall arrows on them to face "Front".
Sorry
Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Machine Automotive exterior
Maybe you can make something out here. This is the Best Pic I have. The Cap Behind the #1 Piston has a Mark or # but I really can't make it out.
 
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· Been there Done it
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About all you can do is try them all in each position with a good crank and correct bearings and see where you get the most consistent clearance with Plastigauge. Unless you have a serious set of the proper micrometers.
Or toss it. Don't think a 2.2L core that wasn't dissembled correctly is worth a whole lot. Or will be seriously missed.
If I remember what little I've learned reading Manbearpigs posts it's important that the year is correct for it's intended use.
1994-1997 are one group, 1998-03 another, I think. Then there's flex fuel engines. Same as 4.3's. Actually from 91-95 it was hard to find any 2 of those that were the same. GM just can't help but want to "improve" things.
 

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If you can't find a arrangement where the crank, bearings, and main caps show nearly equal and proper clearance the cost to have the caps trimmed a tiny bit and the block and caps line bored would be more than the block is worth. Line boring is expensive because it requires a couple of expensive machines and takes some time to do correctly. Is the crank usable as is? If you need to have it reground to even start attempting to make it work you have some decisions to make.
What was machined on the block previously? Hopefully they decked the block since a lot of 2.2L's go bad due to overheating. Being sure it is parallel to the crank and perfectly flat is important on these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have Pictures of my 2.2 when I was re-assembling before I put the oil pan on, I just looked at them, Blurry! I could only make out my cave man engravings. It's been almost 6 years But
I only recall arrows on them to face "Front".
Sorry View attachment 371133 Maybe you can make something out here. This is the Best Pic I have. The Cap Behind the #1 Piston has a Mark or # but I really can't make it out.
The rod caps are marked w a gm number and a b and g every other rod I lucked out the engine came w a sealed power regrind crank, and new cam, and Rings/pistons. They checked out on dry assembly w plastigage. End play was Bueno so I "slopped" it together still short a few parts and bolts will post when up and running. Thank you for responding w pics and info.
 
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