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Discussion Starter #1
how do i bypass the VATS system on my tpi 305..i used a painless wiring harness and it just has 1 blue wire for the VATS..i already have a stage 2 Jet chip that came with the computer but that doesnt disable it...ive heard of bypass modules but i cant seem to find anything...or whats a reputable shop that can custom burn me a chip to delete the vats?? the motor is a 91 camaro and the truck is a 88 s10..
 

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You will need to find out which pin in the Camaro computer is for the VATS. Then, the blue wire you are talking about needs to be wired to that pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
no the blue wire comes out of a pin in the camaro computer already...it is supposed to go to the VATS decoder module, which reads the signal from the column and processes it and sends it to the computer to turn everything on...i dont have that module though..ive heard of a module that connects to ground, +5 from the TPS, and the blue wire for VATS
 

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Oh, I thought you meant the blue wire came out of the harness from a VATS bypass already installed.
You can get one from Dakota Digital, Street & Performance, Painless Wiring, and a couple other places. It just takes a 12V ignition source, a ground, and the blue wire.
Another option is to install a resistor of some sort in line with that blue wire and pray. I am not sure about the resistor thing, I have never done it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
bump anyone else..couldnt find dakota digitals or street and performance..painless has it but i wouldnt get it to the end of next week cause of the holiday...ive heard of this DIY module that i can make and it will work...someone help so i can finally get this thing rolling
 

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The Computer has to see a 30Hz signal on the blue wire. The 30Hz signal is 0 - 5V at a 50% duty cycle.
If You know any electronics wizzes, the module can be built from a "555 timer chip" from radio shack.
I see them now and then on ebay, just make sure that You get one for 30Hz, because the 93 and up requires 50Hz. Then again, ebay won't get You one any faster than next week either....
Good Luck...
 

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Another option is to buy a new vats module (about $138.00 from GM) connect it to power and ground, connect the two signal wires together. (the ones that go to the key) hook it up to the blue wire, and when you hit the key the new module will "burn in" @ 0 resistance thus allowing the engine to start. The new modules come "un-burnt", with 15 different resistance "chips" and a 1000 different key cuts, there's no way possible to know what resistance mesurment you will need, or how many replacements that one key will need. so they come "un-burnt". What happens is, the second you hit the key, with the signal wires connected, is a "0" resistance is "burnt" into the module, allowing the engine to fire. Just leave the wires connected, and tuck the box up under the dash. Viola.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok..i got the vats decoder module out of the car the motor came from..i got a diagram and im gonna wire it up...if that doesnt work ill try what LT_10 suggested.. but it should all work fine
 

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I bought a vats bypass module online, i hooked it up the way it was described, but my truck still only runs for 3 seconds and dies.

this is for a 94 lt1
the way its wired is the red wire goes to pin 29 on the black plug, the blue wire on the module replaces pin 25 on the red plug and the black wire is grounded out

I called the guy and he had said to check the injectors as they might not be getting pulse, he said to use a noise light???

Can anyone help out with this problem?
 

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Navecm said:
I bought a vats bypass module online, i hooked it up the way it was described, but my truck still only runs for 3 seconds and dies.

this is for a 94 lt1
the way its wired is the red wire goes to pin 29 on the black plug, the blue wire on the module replaces pin 25 on the red plug and the black wire is grounded out

I called the guy and he had said to check the injectors as they might not be getting pulse, he said to use a noise light???

Can anyone help out with this problem?
Noid light is just a self contained testlight that plugs into the harness in place of one of the injectors. You can use a regular testlight, just don't screw up the terminals.
You want to see the light blinking. If the light stops and the engine shuts off, usually vats prob. If the light continues to blink but the "blinks"slow down as rpm's drop vats is OK as the injector pulse is present.

Got fuel pressure?

Umm, just outa curiousity, do You have the mass air flow sensor and the intake air temp sensor hooked up??? Engine will sometimes do the same thing if they are not.
 

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yeah the mass airflow and iat are both hooked up, fuel pressure isnt a problem

is it possible that the maf isnt working properly, how would i test that, just ohm it out with a meter?
 
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