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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys. Brand new here. I've been using the site as a reference for quite some time but just finally joined. So Hi.

Just wondering how you guys would rate this underbody in terms of rust. I am deciding on whether I want to hang on to it for a while longer or sell it. Pretty low miles, but the Buffalo winters take a toll on our vehicles. If any of you have used por15 or rustbullet etc, would you recommend one over the other based on what you see here? Just curious if this amount of rust in considered serious or not, and if it would be worth it to use a rust converter etc... Based on what yours looks like or any experiences. Thanks.

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Blacked out Z
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Thats not bad...i live in salteveryroad city MN. if u wana keep it nice all i can say is fix it and treat it now cuz it only gets worse, and it WILL come back.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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thats clean compared to the vehicles here.. ive been under brand new ford trucks that look worse than that... but then again fords are factory equipped with rust

anyways... every fall i get under my car and hose it down with a quart or so of heavy weight engine oil then drive down a dirt road, works awesome, my daily is an 85 monte and its held up pretty well in the 5 winters ive owned it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys. I think your right with the transmission seal. I never noticed. Im a DIY'er, but only am framiliar with things Ive done so far mechanically wise, and this is not one of them. I took another pic of it. Seems that a black grease is leaking from it, not trans fluid (trans should be leaking if there is a leak correct?). I uploaded another pic if you wouldent mind taking a quick look. Maybe I should post this in a different forum now? Well thanks either way. Much appreciated.


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it just looks like black grease because of all the dirt that sticks to the fluid after it leaks out. it's pretty easy to replace, you have to remove the driveshaft(put a catch pan under the end of the trans because you will lose some fluid) rent or buy a seal puller from the parts store(not necessary but it make it easier) to remove the old seal, install the new one with a big socket or a block of wood to tap it in around the edges being careful not to bend it(basically the same as installing wheel bearing seals in rotors) make sure it's fully seated, reinstall the driveshaft and top the fluid off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, thanks for the replies. Do you think this is something I can do without putting the truck up on a lift. I can fit under it alright as it is with a little wiggle room. And im trying to figure out what connects the drive shaft to the trans, are there bolts on the driveshaft (side facing the front of the car). Im assuming the bolts arent on the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ramps or a jack and jackstands will work just fine, you're going to want a little elbow room. the driveshaft unbolts from the rear end and then it slips out of the tailshaft of the trans.

welcome to the site BTW.

Sounds good. I see what your talking about. Too bad it just dropped below 30 here in good old Buffalo. Its going to be a cold day tomorrow under the sonoma. Thanks for all the help, and nice eyes. Probably saved me a lot of trouble in the long run.
 
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don't spray oil on the undercarriage. lol
there's several alternatives like POR15, rubberized undercoating, bed liner, cleaning and painting it etc... i know what you mean about the cold, i'm in MI.

oh! and if you do that trans seal be sure to chock the tires or get all four off the ground because once you remove that driveshaft there's no park.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
don't spray oil on the undercarriage. lol
there's several alternatives like POR15, rubberized undercoating, bed liner, cleaning and painting it etc... i know what you mean about the cold, i'm in MI.

oh! and if you do that trans seal be sure to chock the tires or get all four off the ground because once you remove that driveshaft there's no park.

Haha. Yeah I thought that spraying oil thing was probably pretty effective, not really ecologically friendly though, plus if you do it over the grass the worms would be pissed. I was looking into that rubber bullet stuff. Deciding between that and POR15 right now. And nice call with the driveshaft/park. Wouldent be cool if it slipped off the jacks and rolled over me and into the street to get T-boned.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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the problem with the paint coatings is that they chip and flake off if it isnt prepped correctly, and rubberized undercoating just dries up and cracks after a few months... dont get me wrong, a paint coating is the correct and best way to do it, but to do it so it lasts takes a lot of time and work, and your truck will be down for quite some time

im not saying oiling is for everyone, but its what ive always done to my beaters, and it hasnt let me down yet, by the way i spray it out of one of my old siphon feed guns with a 1.7 tip
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
the problem with the paint coatings is that they chip and flake off if it isnt prepped correctly, and rubberized undercoating just dries up and cracks after a few months... dont get me wrong, a paint coating is the correct and best way to do it, but to do it so it lasts takes a lot of time and work, and your truck will be down for quite some time

im not saying oiling is for everyone, but its what ive always done to my beaters, and it hasnt let me down yet, by the way i spray it out of one of my old siphon feed guns with a 1.7 tip

Yeah, Ive read the same thing. Especially with the POR15, atleast seems as though its more picky then the others in terms of prep. Either way the weather is not exactly condoning for 3 days of underbody work right now. I was debating just getting it done professionally if it would only be like 200 bucks, probably only in my dreams though. I lost my first car ever (nissan altima) with only 110k on the engine to chasis rot. I was horrified. I'll be damned if I let that happen again now.
 

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Motor oil would work but as was stated, not very environmentally friendly.

If you have a John Deere or AGCO farm dealer near you they sell a product called "Fluid Film".

You can get it in spray cans so no need to worry about how to apply it. It also has an applicator straw like WD40, etc.

It goes on like a liquid then will thicken to a grease like film.

Made from lanolin so it's a lot more user and environmentally friendly than oil.

Here's their website.

http://www.fluid-film.com/

To the left side of the page is a "purchase" option you can find a dealer close by, hopefully.

Sorry for my 1st post sounding like an advertisement.

I'm NOT associated with the company or any of it's dealers. Just a fellow S10 owner that has found a decent product that so far, has worked good for me.

Hope this helps.
 

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Heavy Metal Body Man
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fluid film is awesome stuff, i have a few cans in my garage, and my dad seems like he buys it by the case... it doesnt ever dry up or wash away or anything like that, and it stays where you put it, its pretty impressive stuff

i guess it was developed for the navy 50 years ago or something, they needed something to coat the ships in that the sea water couldnt wash off
 

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I agree with maverick, while painting everything usually is the best method.. pressure washing the heavy rust off, then enjoying the day laying on your back coating the frame with some nice heavy grease and a stiff brush works amazingly well on dailys and winter beaters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What about Chassis Saver? i was thinking of getting a can of it to do my 96 truck

Seems like all of the different brands are roughly equal, with proponents of each brand saying one is better then the other because they only ever used "insert brand". Interesting enough I read a thread somewhere, where a guy did a 5 year study, and in the end they all failed (understandably) just about equally. Rustoleom has worse reviews on average though. POR15 seems like it takes more delicate prepwork (from users opinions). I think Im going to check out that fluid film as a wuick fix for the winter, then take my time come spring/summer with something more perm.
 
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