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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:D Hi all.

I haven't done one on an S-10 before but.......

Is changing the U-Joint at the rear-end easy?

It's giving a good squeak as it rotates these days (forward and reverse).

I thought I'd do it.
 

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ZR2 Interceptor
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Depends on whether you have the type that's held on with clips or the type that's held together with the nylon adhesive. If its the latter, you'll need a torch (minimum MAPP) and a joint press. If you think you can pound it out using a socket and hammer, think again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ppap,

Yep. I just took a better look and it looks stock, w/no clips. Looks like a dealer
job this time. Thanks.
 

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i am doing some righ now on my truck... there is some plastic crap in there that holds them in.. you need to heat it up to get them out
 

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The replacement universal joint has grooves that are machined into the bearing cups. once the cups are pressed into position retaining clips are inserted into the grooves to keep them from backing out
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
old s-10 owner said:
The replacement universal joint has grooves that are machined into the bearing cups. once the cups are pressed into position retaining clips are inserted into the grooves to keep them from backing out
I know how they are supposed to function, it's that the OEM driveshaft has the U-joint currently "flush" with the driveshaft housing. Actually the Cups of the OEM U-joint are just slightly outside of flush. So I didn't know for sure if the replacement cups would be set inside the outer edge of the housing and IF there was a ring-groove where the clips would fit.

I just bought the truck anyway and the dealer is going to fix it "comp" anyway. I just thought I'd do it myself to become "in touch" with the new vehicle...lol
At just a $11 part, I thought it'd be ok. I'll let the dealer do it and go from there.
Besides, I've got my only other car in a shop getting an engine replaced. Can't afford to have the truck disabled for more than a few hours right now.

Thanks. :)
 

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Damn right I'm a maniac.
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The plastic crap is somewhat of a pain, but if you have a torch handy, its not too bad. I think I did all 3 of mine in about 2 hours (and alot of swearing :haha:)
 

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Mine take me half an hour to change. I would do it your self if you have a sleg hammer, a large socket.

Mark drive shaft and yoke.
Just take off the U-joint using a 7/16 wrench.
Slide the drive shaft out off tranny.
Remove retainer clips with flat screw driver.
Set the drive shaft on the large socket.
Remove U-joint.

Cy
 

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ZR2 Interceptor
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scys said:
Mine take me half an hour to change. I would do it your self if you have a sleg hammer, a large socket.

Mark drive shaft and yoke.
Just take off the U-joint using a 7/16 wrench.
Slide the drive shaft out off tranny.
Remove retainer clips with flat screw driver.
Set the drive shaft on the large socket.
Remove U-joint.
Cy
You don't have the nylon adhesive type of u-joint. If you tried this method on it, you'd lose your hearing and damage the ears on the driveshaft. :rolleyes:
 

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Good luck with that.

I'm glad I have the one with retainer clips. Even though I have to change them every 10 000 km.

Cy
 

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98' Cowl Induction
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ppap said:
You don't have the nylon adhesive type of u-joint. If you tried this method on it, you'd lose your hearing and damage the ears on the driveshaft. :rolleyes:
This is TRUE

I wish I had researched U-Joints before just jumping on them thinkin....ahhhh a few C-Clips and I will be done.


Nylon Injected will not come out with a hammer and socket...if they do YOUR VERY lucky.

I bent my 50yr old vise.

I tried a good size arbor press at my work.

I drilled the nylon nipples hang out of the u-joint and repeated the last step.

I took it up to the machine shop at my work and tried the 10k lb press HANGING on it.

Then a bell rang off in my head.

MELT THE EFFIN NYLON

One of the machine shop guys had mapp gas. I heated them up...the nylon oozes out of the holes like the black worm fireworks you light when I was a kid.

Back on the 10k press....LIKE BUTTA....slide right out now!

Cool down the drive shaft with come H20 and reinstalled the new ones.

The other thing that pissed me off was breaking the ujoint free from the rear end....I ended up using a pry bar then it broke free and jambed my elbow into a bolt under the truck, cutting it, then having the shaft wack me in the head :haha:

After that...I knew the rest of the night was going to be hell.
 

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95projectS-Dime said:
So a propane torch will not get it huh??
it takes some patience, but yes, it will work. people will tell you it wont, but i've done it. it works, you just gotta take your time and heat all the way around the hole. But for the price of a can of mapp, it will make your life alot easier. one more thing to add.... dont stand in front of the little holes when your doing it. Sometimes, if the little peg looking things get stuck in there pretty good, it will build a decent amount of pressure before it shoots molten hot nylon everywhere.
 
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any hardware store, possibly auto parts store should have it, TSC, harbor freight, etc.
 

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I have to go to TSC in the morning to get some fence , so I will look then . Thanks for the info and the tip . But I will get burned , that is just my luck..lol
 
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