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Pressurized 2.2 Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Stinky is the man to go to for the 94-97 trucks for the turbo setup he is very helpful and put together this with 325c2 and myself. For the 98+ myself and 325c2 can help in those areas.


A special thanks to 325c2, Stinky, Adler, and Gutless for information on fuel managment and assembiles of a turbo setup.


Turbo frequently asked questions

Q. Can I turbo charge my 2.2l S-10?
A. yes, but you don’t have too many options

Q. what are my options?
A. You could go with the www.turbos-10.com turbo kit that is expensive, but it does work. There are at least two kits in development, both with unknown release dates. The final option is to make something yourself.

Q. Is it safe to turbo my engine?
A. A turbocharger puts more strain on your engine so it increases wear, but with the right tuning, proper maintenance and reasonable amounts of boost you can expect your engine to last a long time.

Q. What is the right tuning?
A. You want to have an air fuel ratio of about 13:1 and the timing has to be set so that you don’t get any detonation. The perfect air to fuel ratio is 14.3 to 1, but a turbo charged engine needs more fuel to prevent detonation. There are a few ways to add fuel, the easiest being a rising rate fmu. A better way is to get a piggyback computer (greddy e-manage, perfect power smt6) there are other more expensive ways to do it, but I am not going to get into it. I also recommend looking into some additional or higher flowing injector, but it is not required.

Q. What turbos can I use?
A. Any turbo will work, but you need to find one that fits the best. Mitsubishi turbos are readily available and they are affordable. The 14b works well for lower boost levels and the 16g is better for higher levels of boost. The turbonetics T3 super 60 and the Garrett GT28RS are also good turbos for this engine.

Q. Do I need an intercooler
A. You do not need an intercooler, but it is a good idea. This is to cool the compressed air to prevent detonation. Some of you other options are water or alcohol injection.

Q. Do I need a blow off valve?
A. You do not need one but it helps extend the life of the turbo.

Some cavaliers have the same engine but the turbo kits will not fit in our trucks.

You can find parts at junk yards and ebay but you are taking a risk when you buy used parts. There are many stores that sell new parts, so do a search and find the best deals.

Full basic list to make a remote turbo setup to keep the A/C

1) Turbo of your choice, can be small can be big such as a 14b or a t3/t4 depending on where you want your power band at and how much you plan on boosting.

2) Fuel Managment, For low boost you can use a FMU safely to say 9-10 psi on a daily driver without to many problems, on the pre 98 trucks an inline pump is reccomended but not required to keep things up in pressure. Or you can use aftermarket controller and extra injectors. Depends on how much boost and you budget no how far you go with that setup.

3) Flanges, you will need lots of flanges ones for both the inlet/outlet of the turbo and ones to fit your cat and your header so create the up and downpipes

4) Blow off Valve, this is not completly needed but will prolong the life of your turbo and keep boost when shifting gears.

5) Intercooler, this one I find debatable to its requirment I havent ran one on my daily driver and ran up to 200hp to the wheels without ping, detonation, or any other problems but some will say its absolute. This is to keep the air cool going into the motor to help ward off unwanted detonation.

6) Tubing, you will need lots of it to do it yourself, you need to make a up and downpipe which are the pipes that take the exhaust from the header to the turbo, and from the turbo to the cat location. You need charge pipes which are the pipes that run from the turbo to the motor or the intercooler to the motor.

7) Electric fan, on some of the setups like Stinky's it does not seem to need it but on the 98+ motors the fan is where the turbo is going to sit so you gotta get rid of the motor driven.

8) Couplings, these are to attach the charge pipes and intercooler and the bov mount together. Reducers are in this same catagory in the need to change sizes from the Throttle body which is 2.75 inch inside diameter to say 2 inch outside diamater tubing for your charge pipes.

9) Vac lines and Tees, you need to run a vac/boost line to the Blow off Valve, boost gauge, FMU, and wastegate. These all use signal to refrence boost or vacuum to gauge eihter how much boost you make to how much fuel to add or when to open to relive the excess gasses.

10) Wastegate, these are what makes you boost to a certain pressure. Without one you will create boost till you blow the engine. They can be either internal or external. Internal are easier to use in the fact that they are attached directly to the turbo and need less modification to use. External use extra tubing to run from the turbo back into the exhaust path down the line.

11) Gauges, Boost, A/F, Exhasut temp are what I reccomend. these are to keep track of all the happenings of your motor and can be used to tune the system and keep your truck running forever or till you over boost.

12) Gaskets, because no body likes exhasut leaks.

13) Header Wrap, keep the heat in the tubing and out of the engine bay much nicer than cooking all your electronics and wires and for you 98+ guys warping the intake manifold.


14) Clamps, you will need them for small hoses such as fuel lines to big ones like your charge pipes. Get lots and they are cheap so dont get just enough get more than enough just in case.

15) Alcohol, either for the creation process or instal of a kit its almost required not to loose your mind in all the pipes and loose ends when you get near the end.

All the obvious needs such as a bender or prebent tubing, welder, tools, imagination, and lots of time. This is not a time to half ass this. To make something reliable you need to take your time and make it to last. Dont use cheap piping or low quality hoses use what will not have to be changed over the course of the time you plan to have the truck. Make it look pleasing as well as functional.

For the non Flex Fuel Guys
You have to have an inline pump to run an FMU over 4psi.At 8 psi your looking at almost 120psi+ in the fuel rail with a 10:1 ratio.The pumps in our trucks(thats 94+: not including flex fuel) are rated for 50psi which means when the pressure hits 50psi the pump opens its pressure release valve.Plus if you go over 8psi(not including flex fuel) with that pressur your injectors will stick.The place i bought my pump from told me to stop smoking crack when i told him i was going to run 10psi on stock injectors with an FMU

I recomend mounting it after the filter.I used the Painless Wiring fuel relay kit($30 from Jeg's or Summit) to make the install clean and simple and a Walboro GSL-394 inline rated at 190lph(60gallons) with a 95psi rating.For the FMU's :6-8psi on stock injectors max and you will need a pump with at least a 90psi rating.If you want to run over 8psi on an FMU you will want to upgrade the injectors so that you can decrease the FMU ratio to reduce the fuel pressure.You don't want to go over 100psi.
 

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So,
If I have a 98' 2.2 with a turbo and run 8 psi, what will the computer do as far as timing goes? I plan in buying a 98+ truck because I have a t3/t4 BB turbo sitting at my shop with a .63 A/R exhaust housing with a stage 5 trubine wheel and a 62-1 on the compressor side. I just wan to run 8 psi (this is a work truck). So back to my first question whats up with the timing? Also do these trucks use a MAF? If so do you blow through it of draw through?

Thanks,
Kyle~
 

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Pressurized 2.2 Member
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3,233 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Amazing enough like Stinky pointed out until you break a bar 14.7 the computer can compensate all the ingition and fuel problems as they arise. I was pleased with all my setups and never had any problems no smoke all have perfect compression still and never heard a knock or ping. If you get a 2.2 the kits on the 98+ are pretty straight forward and easy just time consuming. By the Way mines still on the Market :rant: :D
 

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I don't know about the flex fuel models, but my truck can not read boost. The map sensor puts out 4.9X volts from 0 up to any amount of boost. the reason that it doesn't knock is that it has a knock sensor. the compter does not take care of the fuel problems, if it did you would not need the fmu.
 

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LS6 swap in progress.
1999 LS6 Sonoma on C5 Brakes
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319 Posts
Ive heard of guys putting on 28lb injectors (we have 14lb right?) when they slap on a turbo and only having the FMU around to control idle fuel management so it doesnt flood...based on the first post here...all i would have to do for my 99 sonoma fuel is nothing but FMU and no new pump? Nice FAQ section guys...

Thanks, A.J.
 

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slowly fast
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2,001 Posts
2.2L Sonoma said:
Ive heard of guys putting on 28lb injectors (we have 14lb right?) when they slap on a turbo and only having the FMU around to control idle fuel management so it doesnt flood...based on the first post here...all i would have to do for my 99 sonoma fuel is nothing but FMU and no new pump? Nice FAQ section guys...

Thanks, A.J.
You can't just put in bigger injectors without some kind of ECU/electronic fuel controller to lean them out for idle.The FMU doesn't control the injectors,it raises fuel pressure.If you run your stock injectors(or at max 10% bigger) and an FMU you will need an inline pump with a pressure rating of a minium of 90 psi.
 

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LS6 swap in progress.
1999 LS6 Sonoma on C5 Brakes
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319 Posts
Stinky said:
If you run your stock injectors(or at max 10% bigger) and an FMU you will need an inline pump with a pressure rating of a minium of 90 psi.
So i will need a new inline pump regardless of the injectors? I thought the pumps were only needed on the 97 and down motors....ive got the vortec 2200...lol i am really new to the idea of a turbo so im trying to learn as much as i can. One of my buddies turboed a neon and he said he would help me set it up in my car...but doesnt know jack about our motors...thanks for the help man!

A.J.
 

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I am running 8psi and its still running strong, but i don't have the fuel to turn the boost up. I think that it is the max that you can go with the stock fuel pump, but i might have some other restriction in the fuel system that i haven't found.
 

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slowly fast
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The problem is on the vehicles that don't have flex fuel is the pumps are rated at 50psi.Which means once the fuel pressure passes 50psi the pump's purge valve starts to open to release some of the fuel pressure.I don't know about Vortech FMU's but the Cartech one i have demands you use a pump with a minium pressure rating of 90psi.325c2 have you checked your A/F ratio between 7-8psi?
 

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i just have the reading off of the o2 sensor so it isn't very accurate, but it says it is around 14:1 and I want it to be 13:1 which would read full rich on that sensor. i plan on getting it on a dyno with a wideband o2 sensor some time in the near future. i just need to hook up the extra injector and get a new pump.
 

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Not Me Just The Truck
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How do you tell if you have a flex fuel? Is flex fuel only in 98+. I have a 97 2.2 that I am thinking about turboing during my winter break from college. If I just want to run 6-8 PSI boost do I need to do anything to my ECU or anyother electronics like get a fuel managment system, also how where did you guys install your feed oil lines? I know that one goes to the oil pan but how about the other? I have read on the internet that there are kits for relocating the oil filter and using this as a feed line, thanks for any suggestions.
 

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hercamer said:
How do you tell if you have a flex fuel? Is flex fuel only in 98+. I have a 97 2.2 that I am thinking about turboing during my winter break from college. If I just want to run 6-8 PSI boost do I need to do anything to my ECU or anyother electronics like get a fuel managment system, also how where did you guys install your feed oil lines? I know that one goes to the oil pan but how about the other? I have read on the internet that there are kits for relocating the oil filter and using this as a feed line, thanks for any suggestions.
The flex fuel was offered in the 98+ 2.2's so you definatly don't have it.I tapped my oil feed off the oil pressure sender unit.There is a tap above the oil filter you can use as well.You could get away with using a FMU and the MSD DIS ll with boost programable retard.Its listed as the "programable" unit.
 

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slowly fast
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Yeah there is a guy on the forum using the SDS MF-2 on his supercharged truck for his fuel delivery.I had planned on doing the same thing but our manifolds are a dry intake system so i was alittle conserned with what would happen to the MAP sensor after it got saturated with gas.
 

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BMW Parts Dept.
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434 Posts
Just something to throw out there. Are you all sure the stock fuel pump in our trucks only flow 50 psi at max. This is non-flex, and 98 or newer. I surely dont have flex and at 8 pounds and a fmu I just barely leaned out. Mind you i've been straped for cash for awhile, but i've been slowly adding to the mix. I originaly thought e-manage was the easy out out of management problems. I was wrong, sorta, it takes alot of extras,a lot of trial and error, and an extensive amount of money to tune just right. I've dug a hole I can barely afford to get out of. My knowledge has surpassed my income. My trucks been down for nearly a year due to mostly fuel manegment and I'm really fed up with it. Everytime I buy something new, I encounter a new stumbling block. I will beat this motor before it beats me.

Well, I got distracted. Sorry. Back to the issue. I'm positive the stock fuel pump, 98+ non-flex, flows a helluva lot more than 50 psi. I'm missing the exact figure here but at idle i believe we sit at 36-42 psi. Theres no way 50 is the max. And as a reminder to anyone interested in turbocharging, keep it under 8 pounds or suffer.
 
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