[cerial]

I am looking at this rack setup.

Manual Rack and Pinion Conversion Kit (S10 / Blazer)

Custom Narrowed Pinto Style Manual Rack specific for the S10 / Blazer Adjustable Bump Steer / Tie Rod Kit Rack Clamp and Rack Mount Plate 3/4″ Chrome-Moly Steering Shaft and Shaft Brace 3 Chrome-Moly U-Joints (One 9/16″ – 26 spline to 3/4″ joint + Two 3/4″ x 3/4″ smooth joints) Welding Required...

www.trzmotorsports.com

Before anyone asks whats wrong with the proven setup. I cut my frame off in front of the A arms to shorten the overall length and reduce frontend weight early on.


Ok this has been asked tons before so like a good boy I searched for a few hours.

While searching I have seen lots of recomendations. But I found very little actual installs and even less about how to install it.

Get on youtube and they all show setting up the rack and welding it in. All pretty basic and it looks like a nice kit.

But almost all are vague on the actual tie rod angles and if they had any bump steer after the install.

So before I order the kit I would like to get some first hand experence.

I have a 94 that had a 2.2, 5 speed standard cab. Lots of mods and about all that is still stock suspension /steering wise is the upper and lower control arms and I am using stock spindles.

I am within 100lbs of my final front end weight so I do not see any significant change in setup from now to when the thing gets paint.

I just need some insight from any actual installs with any issues that came up or things you would do differently. Maybe a few tips on where you want the arms as it relates to suspension travel. Pictures or links to a build thread or a possible writeup I missed.

 

[Harley]

I think it is flaming river offers a bolt on solution.

@manbearpig has a manual rack kit on his truck.

 

[manbearpig]

Mine is the Unisteer kit. Currently sitting on the shelf waiting to go on my '95. I used it on the '01 for a few years, definitely miss the way it drove before I got T boned and raised it back to stock. Now it just has a manual gearbox.

 

[cerial]

This could be a great or a horrible idea.

Bad sketch.

Basically run a $200 easy to find rack mounted flush with the engine crossmember. Then have a U shaped bracket that moves the tie rods inward. The bracket will have upper and lower wings to prevent it from moving up and down.

 

[Harley]

@cerial that is essentially how I've thought about running a rack on a 2WD. About the only way to get the tie rods located correctly is to adapt a wider rack. I've seen linear actuators used to stabilize the u bracket in a comparable setup. Could also do something similar with a center take off rack and potentially be less complicated.

 

[cerial]

@cerial Could also do something similar with a center take off rack and potentially be less complicated.

Can you explain this further.

This is what I am playing with at this point;

 

[Harley]

Can you explain this further.

I'm short on time, but I think this thread from another forum does a good job expanding on what I was getting at.

Center Take-Off Rack & Pinion

So ive looked through the forms on R&P setups and it looks like the center takeoff was brought up but the only option mentioned was an expensive custom rack. So I’ve been doing some research and think I’ve come up with a solution. I'll post what I’ve found below and you guys can let me know w...

ratsun.net

 

[cerial]

Great tech there thank you. Guy never did get to actually testing it out.

Well.While it would save me $300 and potentially just grab a stock rack if the thing ever needed to be rebuilt or replaced.

The TRZ rack is the direction I am going. Fought it. But at least I am saving a bit if cash.

 

[ProCycle]

I put a center take off Intrepid rack on mine. It has worked out well.
Starts here in my build thread --> SS-10

 

[cerial]

That is exactly what I am looking for.

My wheelbase is 81" with around 132" total length. 69" highest pointaround 72" widest.

My weight should be around 60-65% rear so I see no need for power steering.

I am using stock upper and lower arms, stock G body spindles, and rear progressive coils from a thunderbird. Rear is stock 3 leafs on sliders and eventually a traction aid to prevent wrap and rear sway bar(no front sway bar)

Without shocks the thing has a very soft suspension currently thats near perfect. Planning on adjustable viking shocks front and rear to fine tune.



How did you figure your geometry? Mid way between compression/droop, parallel angle with lower arm at ride height, or something else?

The picture above is at ride height. I am guessing another 3-400lbs on the rear(fluids, exhaust, electronics, etc) and another 80-100lbs on the front(aluminum "hood", steering, lights). So the angles should not change to much.


What year(s) rack are you using?

 

[ProCycle]

How did you figure your geometry? Mid way between compression/droop, parallel angle with lower arm at ride height, or something else?

I had the springs out and just guestimated a ride height that would give me 4-1/2" to 5" of ground clearance. Then I fabricated the center bracket to get the tie rods parallel to an imaginary line drawn between the lower ball joint and the lower control arm axis. With the inner tie rod end in line with the lower control arm pivot as well. It took 3 or 4 iterations of that bracket to get it right and I ended up altering the mounting points for the rack a couple times too. I don't recall what year the Intrepid rack is from. I'm not sure it would matter.

 

[ProCycle]

My wheelbase is 81" ...

Wow! That's gotta put your rear tires almost touching the cab corners.
I thought mine was short at 95"
Pics please!

 

[cerial]

I hate crazy tight engine bays, back windows that are a joke, and crazy expensive replacment cost.

Lm7 5.3, sm465, full width 77/78 F150 9".



Starting off NA but have room to run a single turbo and a water intercoolier.

Goal is around 500hp, with a cheap(bbc) clutch, using the sm465's 1.7(3rd) and 1(4th) to drive(cheap strong powerglide), and being able to swap 3rds in the 9" to have highway and oh boy gearing.

Currently playing with the floor and wheel wells(that open with the doors)