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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got a 98 blazer 4wd, 4dr, 107K. every time the truck is shut off for more than an hour the trip odometer resets to zero miles. I need to get the truck inspected and last time the computer wasn't ready, could this be why? what could be wrong with it?
 

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The Dudemeister
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Your truck's computer has been taken over by a sarcastic demon that believes the definition of a 'trip' is one occurrence of driving and resets the trip odometer each time you shut it off.

The only viable solution is an exorcism. Sorry bro.

Seriously, I have no idea. Sorry.
 

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rolling work in progress
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something in the cluster, i got a cluster from the junkyard and the odo and trip were still saved in the cluster from the blaze. now my truck says it has 57000 extra miles
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have no idea, I cleaned the hell out of the terminals and it made no difference. dont know if its related but my airbag light turns on and off from time to time, maybe its inside my cluster. I'm going to try and get it inspected tomorrow, I could care less if the trip resets as long as it passes NYS inspection. Im just going to drive it 60 or so miles and then take it to be inspected hopefully it will pass, I guess it really doesn't matter I'm already more than two months over due.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
something in the cluster, i got a cluster from the junkyard and the odo and trip were still saved in the cluster from the blaze. now my truck says it has 57000 extra miles
theres a place by me that you can take a cluster to "new one and the original" and they will reprogram it to the correct millage. There in Syracuse NY, don't know where you are at but I would think it shouldn't be that hard to find a place near you that does that type of stuff.
 

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This also happened to me (similar at least). My 'solution' is below. Listed here are some other symptoms that I had, that may help another person 'fix' a problem. My car is a 1998 LT Blazer, 4x4.

1. Overhead console (short with sunroof), would also reset the computed milage, after sitting for about 4 hours.

2. Initially, trip meter would only reset when truck sat overnight. After about two weeks, began to randomly reset whenever truck was turned off, or after sitting for a few hours.

3. after the above symptoms had continued for about two weeks, one night I started the truck and the dash lights would randomly blink. Also, each time that I used the high beam main headlights, the dash would either shut off, blink, or the headlights would go out.

4. a few other strange electrical problems occured over a period of about two or three weeks, such as once or twice the car would not start, or was hard to start.

SOLUTION number 1:
Finially, I began to try to find the souce of the problem. I had originally thought the problem was simply that the dash instrument cluster was damaged/ broken, and required replacement. But I figured I had nothing to lose, by looking for the problem.

Something similar happened to me a few years ago. The problem was a loose connection to the FUSE in the main battery cable that runs from the positive battery post, under the radiator, and across to the driver side main fuse panel under the hood.

This FUSE is about two inches long, and has two bolts connecting the battery cable to each end. It is located under the battery box. You have to remove the battery, then the battery box, and then the FUSE is inside a plastic container which is clipped to the back side of the radiator support, next to the radiator.

SOLUTION number 2:
This time the problem was simply a loose battery cable. Well, not so simple really. I suspect that this problem is more common than realized. Follow along here.

Where I live, the underhood temperature probably varies by about 200 degrees. In the winter is can be -10 outside. And in the summer, it can be 105 outside, causing an underhood temperature of close to 200 degrees.

Unless the battery cables are properly torqued, they will come loose. And if they are tightened too much, the battery connection will break internally, and battery acid will spill out. That is what happened two years ago. Some dealer moron overtightened the postive cable, broke it, and my wife did not notice until the battery died (from lack of battery acid). Hey, she has never opened a car hood in her life.

Anyway, during the repair, the dealer tech did not properly tighten the FUSE connections after replacing it (ruined because the battery acid dripped on it). Also had to replace the positive battery cable from the battery to the FUSE.

For this latest problem, I was the one who tightened the battery cables, when I replaced the battery last year. It took about a year for the cables (both) to work loose. And the problem was I was afraid to overtighten them, because of the problem of the broken battery post described above.

The easy way to check if the cables are tight, is to reach down and carefully push/ pull on the cable. Try to rotate it. DO not push hard. If you can gently move the cable, it is loose, and needs to be tightened.

How tight? The only correct way is to torque it to the factory spec, as described in the factory GM manual. Otherwise, you will either make it too tight (and break the battery post), or leave it too loose, and you will eventually have electrical problems.

Factory spec is 11 foot-pounds. I have a beam-type torque wrench that reads only to 12.5 foot-pounds (or 150 inch pounds). If you try to use a torque wrench that reads to 50 pounds or more, it will just not be very accurate at 11 pounds. Also, the 'click-type' wrenchs are definitely not accurate enough. Use either a beam-type, or dial type, or digital type. And use one that does not read more than 25 foot pounds.

To be honest, I could only bring myself to torque the bolts to 8 foot-pounds. That may not sound like much force, but first I tightened the bolts with my 1/4 inch ratchet, until it seemed "really tight". That was only about 4 foot pounds. No wonder they came loose.

Of course, I have never seen my GM dealer tech use a torque wrench for anything. And my Acura dealer tech had 'bragged' to me that he never uses a torque wrench for anything - stupid in my opinion when tightening the oil drain plug, as the aluminum pan is NOT heli-coiled like the GM Blazer one is.

SO, hope this helps someone with a strange electrical problem(s).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had the same problem as the original poster .All I did was change all of the light bulbs in the cluster and get a new battery and so far it has fixed the problem.
I still havent got it fixed yet. Im going to try the fuse first then im going to replace the batt. why did you replace the bulbs in your cluster?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Despite the problem with the trip comp it passed inspection so im happy. Ill update the post when I get this fixed.
 

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I still havent got it fixed yet. Im going to try the fuse first then im going to replace the batt. why did you replace the bulbs in your cluster?

cause when I took my cluster out to inspect it some of the contacts were corroded and a little burnt looking so I just swapped all of the bulbs in the cluster with some some bulbs I got at the junkyard.

I really think it was just my battery on the fritz though.
 

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Yes, this is an old thread, still a good one to know about.

A low battery will also cause this. That is, a battery that still will start the car, but is actually low. I checked my battery with a hydrometer, and instead of reading the required 1.265-70 for a fully charged battery, one or more cells were reading 1.240 and even though some cells were reading 1.250 that is still a very low battery.

The voltage checked with a digital voltmeter, instead of reading 12.65v for a fully charged battery, was reading 12.3v

NOTE: to get a valid volt reading, or hydrometer reading the car MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR 12 HOURS, without starting, or any voltage draw. That means you cannot open the doors with the key-fob, and the interior lights cannot be on. You must over-ride the interior light, and then close the door. If you lock up, then the next morning you must use only the key to open the door. Then perform either the hydrometer test, or the voltage test (only at the battery cables).

Now, if the battery is low, you need to either recharge it or buy a new one.
 

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As long as its not resetting the odometer I myself wouldnt worry. My trip odometer has 7300 miles on it cause it was reset when I bought the truck. lol. I usually just keep track of the miles I've driven by looking at the odometer when I fill up. I'm not too concerned to reset the trip odometer though.

But is that really something that can fail inspection? In Indiana we don't require inspections so I wouldn't know.
 

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As long as its not resetting the odometer I myself wouldnt worry. ... I'm not too concerned to reset the trip odometer though.

But is that really something that can fail inspection? In Indiana we don't require inspections so I wouldn't know.
Resetting the trip meter is a SYMPTOM, not the problem. The problem is a loose battery cable, low battery, or other problem. When the trip meter is reset, its because the PCM (main computer) is resetting. And yes, that also resets all of the settings which are checked for the vehicle to pass an emissions inspection. So yes, here is Utah that would be a problem.

Also, anything that is 'upsetting' the PCM that much, will also likely cause driveablilty problems. Or at best, the battery is going to run down or die and the vehicle will not start, because the battery cable is loose.

So really, I was trying to explain that a resetting trip meter, is a symptom of a more serious problem - one that should be diagnosed and solved.
 

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Ive got a 98 blazer 4wd, 4dr, 107K. every time the truck is shut off for more than an hour the trip odometer resets to zero miles. I need to get the truck inspected and last time the computer wasn't ready, could this be why? what could be wrong with it?
Hey..new here but I just got done fixing the exact same problem. First I put a new starter on and then the odometer kept resetting. I knew something was wrong because it never done that before. I guess the new starter was pulling more power from the battery..long story short, I had the battery checked and sure enough..bad battery. It was 6 years old..Optima red top. Went back with a group 78 Optima red top and the problem is gone. I hope this helps and good luck.
 

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If he hasn't fixed it in the last12 years..probably never will.

Check the dates on the posted you're replying to...

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