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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know a trick for breaking the bleeder valves on the front calipers loose????

New Rotors, pads and stainless lines and now I cannot get the bleeders to open (scared of stripping the head). I have PB Blasted them a couple times and tapped on the calipers. I have a metric set of brake wrenches 11mm and a 3/8 socket seems to fit. Not sure which is better or correct but I am too chicken to really give it a torque.
 

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If all else fails new bleeder screws and get em out with vise grips.

Id try the proper sized brake line wrench first though.
 

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put an actual ratchet on them to break them loose. Just had to do it to my fullsize

x2 your gonna get more contact with the surface area this way. also spray some penetrating oil before you start. sometimes tapping them or carefully using heat to remove them works also.
 

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agree with the heat method.
small flame on a torch very hot very quick application
while still hot squirt some PB blaster on threads(get ready for some smoke).
The shock of cooling quickly will break it loose.
 

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I've used heat as well, like a little propane torch worked pretty good
 

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I've used heat as well, like a little propane torch worked pretty good
Hey dude your just north of me.

Anyway not to whore your thread.
I spray them w/ pb blaster as well but also take a little wire toothbrush to them to remove all the caked up crap on them. then use the box end side of the wrench. Oh and the last time i bled my brakes, The damn cap on the bleeder had come off and there was so much dirt and crap caked inside of it. The brake pressure wouldnt overcome it. I actually ended up having to run a drillbit through all of it then run some cleaner throught it and put the bleeder back on the truck.
 

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I gave up on my calipers when a bleeder was siezed. It was easier and damn near cheaper to just buy a $14 caliper. No more sticking caliper and it came with new sliders as well.

That's for the single piston, don't know if you have a dual or not.
 

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I gave up on my calipers when a bleeder was siezed. It was easier and damn near cheaper to just buy a $14 caliper. No more sticking caliper and it came with new sliders as well.

That's for the single piston, don't know if you have a dual or not.
Man 14$ for a caliper? I just dont trust something that vital for that cheap. It has to be made in china for that price.
 

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If they're the single piston calipers they are dirt cheap no matter where you get them. Gm has been using that style caliper for a LONG time.
 

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Man 14$ for a caliper? I just dont trust something that vital for that cheap. It has to be made in china for that price.
Actually those are remanufactured calipers. The calipers themselves are originals, but the seals and pistons are new(yes probably made in China, but what isn't anymore). I have never had a problem using the $14 calipers.
 

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If they're the single piston calipers they are dirt cheap no matter where you get them. Gm has been using that style caliper for a LONG time.
Yeah didnt think about that. There on all there old cars too. But still seems cheap ya know!
 

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I have done this hundreds of times heat the bleeder till cherry red then pour ice water on. using a 6 point is a must,also try tightening a hair then loosen you can get away with a propane torch if you use mapp gas
 

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Hey dude your just north of me.

Anyway not to whore your thread.
I spray them w/ pb blaster as well but also take a little wire toothbrush to them to remove all the caked up crap on them. then use the box end side of the wrench. Oh and the last time i bled my brakes, The damn cap on the bleeder had come off and there was so much dirt and crap caked inside of it. The brake pressure wouldnt overcome it. I actually ended up having to run a drillbit through all of it then run some cleaner throught it and put the bleeder back on the truck.
I hope you don't use that thing on your teeth! J/k :D

On Topic: Tightening them a very little bit will sometimes help but heat and a spray bottle of cold water comes in handy as well.
 

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I hope you don't use that thing on your teeth! J/k :D

On Topic: Tightening them a very little bit will sometimes help but heat and a spray bottle of cold water comes in handy as well.
Actually i do! It cleans better than those sissy nylon bristles! lol J/K

I did some brake bleeding this weekend on my neighbors old monte carlo. So same setup on ours, they were all rusted and rounded. I just used a 6pt 10mm socket on a 1/4in rachet after i cleaned it up and hit it w/ pb blaster. it broke free and i used a wrench to bleed it from then.

Anyway did you finally get it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
KO, thank you everyone for your replies.

Yes, I have been too busy to post a follow up AND too busy to bleed them lines. After about four days of making the 7.5 mile trip to work (one stop sign and one turn) with brakes that worked good on the 3rd trip to the floor with the pedal, then a couple more days with the pedal finding resistance after 1&1/2 trips to the floor and now I can lockup at only 3/4 ways to the floor. One of the mechanics at the school bus garage where I drive said "Yes, the bubbles could break up and work their way back up to the MC after a bunch of pumping (IE: two weeks of limited driving). He had loaned me a couple different wrenches but I never found the time to try them or your tricks.

We are good for now.
 
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