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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off I want to say I have no experience in trans work. Never even took a pan off of one.

So just recently got my 2000 Sonoma 2.2 running and on the road... on the way to work this morning I noticed my rpm's were at 3500-4000 when I was at 60-65mph. So I counted the gears, start off in first and then second and third. I never get the fourth shift. I took it to a local transmission shop. He hooked up a scanner but no codes. So he told me the computer is telling it to shift into fourth but the trans is not responding. He said it could be a stuck valve but this is really rare.

Does anyone have any ideas on what I could do before paying hundreds of my hard earned money for him to even just take a look.
 

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how many miles?
what is fluid level and condition?

is the fluid dark?
does the fluid smell burn't?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I think the trans could have possible over 150,000 miles...
The fluid level is unsure. The dipstick tube in it was not the original and too short so I found a dip stick that would not go in all the way so I cut the difference off and made the marks as if it were the end.
The fluid kinda looks like pepto bismo or maybe a little darker....
I pulled the dipstick and smelt the fluid on the end. It does have somewhat of a burnt smell but not strong just a hint.....

I'm gonna go this weekend to the junk yard to pick up the original dipstick tube.
 

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You did say the trans harness was missing when you got the truck, so I would start by checking the plugs on the trans and harness for broken or bent pins and corrosion.

You might also want to test the harness for continuity between the pcm and trans, just to rule it out. If the harness tests good, then it is most likely a bad solenoid or stuck valve in the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The transmission mechanic here said that the solenoid can't be bad cause one and three work on the same solenoid and two and four work on the same.... I have the first three gears so he is saying the solenoids are working. He did mention a stuck valve. I got some lubricant for the trans that says it could possible open that valve... hopefully it works. I'm gonna give it a few days to see....
 

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Had the same issue in a 96 I had. It was indeed a solenoid. There is a fuse the controls these also. If you little shifter selector light is out on the dash the fuse is blown. My solenoid was bad and would continuously blow the fuse. I dropped the trans pan and replaced the solenoid and it fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Are there two solenoids? How would I go about buying one at autozone? My shift indicator isn't bad currently but when I did got the truck I changed the nuetral safety switch/shift indicator switch cause it wasn't showing at all... my mechanic said that if its shifting into second that the solenoid is working... possible its internally broken? Also I'm not throwing any codes. .........help please
 

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This might help..........wiki
The 4L60-E (and similar 4L65-E) is a series of automatic transmissions from General Motors. Designed for longitudinal engine configurations, the series includes 4 forward gears. It is an evolution of the Turbo-Hydramatic 700R4, originally produced in 1982.
The 4L60-E and 4L65-E are built at Toledo Transmission in Toledo, Ohio and have also been built at Romulus Transmission in Romulus, Michigan and Ramos Arizpe, Mexico.
The two transmissions are differentiated mainly by the number of pinion gears in their planetary gearsets: The 4L60-E has four, while the heavy-duty 4L65-E has five. Other elements of the 4L60-E design were strengthened when the 4L65-E was introduced, but these were incorporated into the 4L60-E in 2002.
Gear ratios:
1 2 3 4 R
3.059 1.625 1.000 0.696 2.29
[edit]4L60-E

The THM700 was renamed "4L60" (RPO MD8) following the new General Motors naming convention, when the electronic version, 4L60-E (RPO M30), was phased in. This happened in 1993 for trucks, vans, and SUVs, and 1994 for rear wheel drive passenger cars. In 1996, a bolt-on bell housing was phased in (along with a six-bolt tailhousing) for S-10 Trucks and S-10 Blazers and beginning in in 1998 for all other applications. Beginning in 1998 a new 300mm torque converter with improved higher-capacity internals, 300mm style Input Shaft, and 300mm style pump was also introduced on LSX engine models. The 4L60-E is rated to handle up to 360 ft·lbf (488 N·m) of torque.
The 4L60-E family of transmissions use 2 shift solenoids, initially called Shift Solenoid A & Shift Solenoid B, later changed to comply with OBD II (On Board Diagnostics revision 2) regulations to 1-2 Shift Solenoid & 2-3 Shift solenoid. By activating and deactivating the solenoids in a predetermined pattern by the PCM, 4 distinct gear ratios can be achieved. The shift solenoid pattern, also sometimes referred to as solenoid firing order, is as follows;
Shift Solenoid Pattern
1-2 Solenoid 2-3 Solenoid
1st Gear On On
2nd Gear Off On
3rd Gear Off Off
4th Gear On Off
Here's a video. This is what you would see underneath looking up into the transmission. The guys in the video pulled the trans. which isnt necessary.
http://youtu.be/OGckmJK2rNQ
This worked for me. You might google about the 4L60-E for problem symptoms and see if it fits what you're describing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I bought a solenoid today.... just my luck it's the only one they had.... can anyone tell me which is the 4th gear solenoid or the one I need to replace?
 

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I cant find any solid answers for ya. I did a search on google and some threads I found say the 1-2 shift solenoid also controls 4th.

The OP in this thread had the same problem as you and fixed it by replacing the 1-2 solenoid. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/no-4th-gear-4l60e-transmission-133149.html

Mitchell says the 3-4 shift is directly controlled by hydraulic circuits in the valve body.

My diagram shows a light green wire going to the 1-2 solenoid.
 

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youtube has plenty of vedios on how to replace it. they also tell you which is which.

IMO I would replace all of them along with the internal harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I really appreciate everyone's responses.... I went to o riellys today as well and found the two solenoids. So I spent my Friday after work replacing them. Just got done took it for a ride and still the same deal. No overdrive, man this is annoying me. I waisted 76 bucks for nothing. Maybe I can take em out clean em real good and get my money back...

So any other ideas on what my problem could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I forgot to ask about something.... when I was removing the solenoid on the drivers side of the two a valve kinda popped out as if it were spring loaded. On the passenger side it didn't pop out. It made me wonder if it was missing a spring.
 

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Sorry it didn't fix your problem dude. I worked in my situation. Must be a bigger issue. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so thanks for everyone's replies. I decided to take off the new solenoids and return them to o rielly's and got my 74 bucks back... at the same time i installed the solenoids i also replaced the filter and fluid with new material. when i first took the pan off it had some gunk down in the bottom. like little rocks and just crap. no metal shavings or any burnt smell at all.... but yesterday when i was around town doing some stuff.... i noticed my rpms were down to 2500 at 60 mph... then 2700 at 70... so im guessing my valve was stuck due to the gunk build up. after driving it for a while it started to clean it out. im so happy i don't have to pay a grand to get it rebuilt. before my rpms were at 3000 for 55-60 mphs. so big increase... still i think it needs to come down a little more but i know what the problem is now.... had to be that gunk build up and finally some fresh clean fluid and filter is cleaning it out. thanks everyone. now i can start getting on to those other threads i posted last week....
 
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