[94sonoma1117]

(2002 Blazer LS 4x4 4 door)
Just ordered the $65.00 torsion key/leaf spring shackle lift online. Looking for pictures of s10s/blazers with this lift, and I am wondering if I can get away with using the stock shocks for a little bit until I have money for extended shocks. Also looking for any input/advice about this lift involving installation, and condition of vehicle after driving with the lift for a while. I live in Wisconsin, so the driving conditions can be pretty rough, and everything gets VERY RUSTY.

 

[TomA]

No need for extended shocks. The "lift" just makes the suspension ride higher, but within its normal range of travel. Unless you replace the control arms or do something to give the suspension more droop, the shocks won't extend any farther than they would have when the suspension is unloaded.

BTW, plan on replacing ball joints, CV joints, and other front end parts a lot more often than normal.

 

[MyWorkInProgress]

People think they’re saving money by just cranking the torsion keys. You end up losing the savings sooner than later. The RC is only ≈$600, but you get the control arms, ball joints, differential drop bracket and new longer shocks. With the control arms, diff drop down, your front geometry isn’t screwed up like it’s going to be with just a tbar crank. I’m going on 2 years trouble free, and I don’t feel like I’m driving a Freightliner.

 

[94sonoma1117]

No need for extended shocks. The "lift" just makes the suspension ride higher, but within its normal range of travel. Unless you replace the control arms or do something to give the suspension more droop, the shocks won't extend any farther than they would have when the suspension is unloaded.

BTW, plan on replacing ball joints, CV joints, and other front end parts a lot more often than normal.

People think they’re saving money by just cranking the torsion keys. You end up losing the savings sooner than later. The RC is only ≈$600, but you get the control arms, ball joints, differential drop bracket and new longer shocks. With the control arms, diff drop down, your front geometry isn’t screwed up like it’s going to be with just a tbar crank. I’m going on 2 years trouble free, and I don’t feel like I’m driving a Freightliner.

----------------- My blazer isn't worth all of that work. I am just looking to get a little bit of lift on a budget. I don't expect the vehicle to last really long to begin with, and I probably will be driving something else by the time it wears out. The only reason I am doing the project is because my stock leaf spring shackles are rotten, and my shocks are bad. Figured it was cheap enough that I would just do it since I will already have the thing apart.

 

[aitch]

----------------- My blazer isn't worth all of that work. I am just looking to get a little bit of lift on a budget. I don't expect the vehicle to last really long to begin with, and I probably will be driving something else by the time it wears out. The only reason I am doing the project is because my stock leaf spring shackles are rotten, and my shocks are bad. Figured it was cheap enough that I would just do it since I will already have the thing apart.

Since you have stated the Blazer is likely not going to be around very long, why not just stay with stock replacement components (shackles, shocks) and skip the lift exercise?

 

[94sonoma1117]

Since you have stated the Blazer is likely not going to be around very long, why not just stay with stock replacement components (shackles, shocks) and skip the lift exercise?

Because, it is only $60.00 and it would cost almost as much to put stock parts in it as it would to buy everything for $60.00. Already ordered the parts. Also, why would I go through all of that work, just to get an end result that I don't even want? If you don't have anything productive or helpful to say that pertains to this topic, then stay off the post.

 

[MyWorkInProgress]

I believe all post in this thread are trying to help, if you don’t want to listen to advice don’t post asking for advice. That being said, good luck, wear a seat belt so you’re ready when the ball joint goes pop.

 

[aitch]

Because, it is only $60.00 and it would cost almost as much to put stock parts in it as it would to buy everything for $60.00. Already ordered the parts. Also, why would I go through all of that work, just to get an end result that I don't even want? If you don't have anything productive or helpful to say that pertains to this topic, then stay off the post.

Well, excussssssse me. I was only asking a question, and parts can be returned if need be. Good luck.

 

[94sonoma1117]

I believe all post in this thread are trying to help, if you don’t want to listen to advice don’t post asking for advice. That being said, good luck, wear a seat belt so you’re ready when the ball joint goes pop.
View attachment 356321

Alright man. You are clearly missing the point here. I did not post on this website to receive cocky replies that have nothing to do with the question I am asking. So, with that being said, all I want out of any of you is pictures of vehicles with the specified lift, or advice pertaining to installation/drivability after installation of said lift. If you don't have anything to offer that is remotely related to this specific lift, then I don't want to hear about it. I don't free time to sit around all day and mess with people like some of you must have. Thank you to TomA for responding with helpful unbiased information.

 

[94sonoma1117]

Not trying to start arguments at all. Just looking to get some info because this is the best website I have found, but I don't understand how a forum like this could be helpful to anyone if they receive replies that dont help the situation.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Not trying to start arguments at all. Just looking to get some info because this is the best website I have found, but I don't understand how a forum like this could be helpful to anyone if they receive replies that dont help the situation.

If you are offended this easily, perhaps the kind people on fb would be more to your liking. The advise you were given is spot on.
If you can't afford to do it right.....don't do it.

 

[Dave4S10]

----------------- My blazer isn't worth all of that work. I am just looking to get a little bit of lift on a budget. I don't expect the vehicle to last really long to begin with, and I probably will be driving something else by the time it wears out. The only reason I am doing the project is because my stock leaf spring shackles are rotten, and my shocks are bad. Figured it was cheap enough that I would just do it since I will already have the thing apart.

You might want to check the leaf springs too. I replaced my shackles a couple years ago and noticed the pad on the end of the second leaf was worn out and the end of the leaf was wearing thru the main leaf. I installed new springs. I have also noticed more S10's with
broken springs and shackles in the junk yard lately.

 

[killian96ss]

You will definitely need an alignment afterwards and your old ball joints might not last long running at more extreme angles. Another failure point when increasing the front end ride height is the cv axles, especially the boots. Are your stock torsion bars maxed out already?

 

[christine_id]

For my 99 4-dr Blazer, I did a lift using new shackles, T-bar crank and the use of the Rough Country upper control arms. I purchased the UCAs separately from the RC 2.5" lift.

This got me about 1.5" to 2" and allowed me to install 30x9.5 tires with no trimming. I think I should have added new t-bar keys.

I have a write-up of this on my build thread at Blazerforum.com. My handle there is Christine_208.