S-10 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 91 s-10, I'm putting a 305 w/a turbo 400 in it this weekend, I have jtr motor mounts and hedman headers #69520. My question is do I need to smash the firewall on either side while I have the engine out for header clearance?

Some have said they needed to, just to fit headers at all, on the other hand some have said they didn't need to do a thing and don't know what the others are talking about.

Do only certain header brands need a little "tweaking", if so which ones? the ones I have?

Any help is appreciated
 

·
Suicide Hood Guru
Joined
·
528 Posts
I've got the same combination as you do... it depends on where you have your motor located on the motor mount... you can have it in the forward or rear position... mine is in the rear location and i had to pound the hell outta the passenger side firewall/tunnel to get the header to fit... the drivers side fit with no problem... also while the motor is out, make sure you pound out the firewall tunnel, there is a lip that runs around the top of the tunnel that will need to be flattened so your tranny will clear the firewall...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The instructions for the motor mounts say they're for a 2.8 liter 6 cylinder truck. I have a 2.5 4 cylinder. Are the mounts in different locations? If so are there spots for the motor mounts in the correct spot,( maybe from the factory for the 6 cylinder)? If this is the case can I just get what I need from the junk yard?
 

·
IMBLOWN
Joined
·
977 Posts
From what I understand, you HAVE to use 2.8L shells/rubbers with those motor mounts...the 4 cylinder mounts cannot be used...

I'm running the JTR mounts and hedders you are going to use...I ran my engine in the full forward position, and didn't need to hammer anything for initial installation....HOWEVER, when you install the exhaust on your truck, you or your exhaust guru will need adequate clearance to get your collectors fitted up and tightened on the passenger side...

I simply used a BIG prybar and bent in alot of clearance after I installed everything....

Tip of the day: Unless you like monthly gasket changes, Don't use anything but aluminum exhaust/collector gaskets...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Jameskirk1 is right, you will need the 2.8 mounts. I posted a thread to see if anyone knows of some tuffer than stock ones anywhere. I have a 88 Xtra cab 350/350 & I slid everything as far fwd as I could. Vette radiator / taurus-93? electric fan << neet fit!!! I have the headman shorty headers & got them to fit with a little bumping under the heater box. I did cut the collecters off & tagged on a 8" 2&1/2" (bent) piece with normal exaust flange to clear the REST! of the stuff. When these guys say their headers will fit ..... don't count on it! Do count on having that motor in and out several times befor you get done.
Take the radiator support out! life becomes much esier!
:guitar: :monkey: PS if you have AIR ...Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I smashed the firewall, put in the 2.8 mounts(what a pain in the [email protected]#) had to drop the suspension arms to get at the nuts. I don't see how I can get the driver side header in, the steering shaft doesn't give me any room.
I also don't know which wires to hook up to the distributor, I got a chiltons for the vehicle that my new motor came out of and the one for my truck, still not exactly sure what is what.
Any suggestions, tips, or tricks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
As far as the headers go, what you need to do is take the intermediate shaft out, that is the shaft that bolts to the steering column & the steering box then install the drivers side header. then you collaps the intermediate shaft, bolt it back up tp the steering column, extend the shaft back down & slide it back over the splines on the box & you are in. I take it you have the shorty set & the drivers side has two tubes that go WAY out & around towards the fenderwell ? You will also have to move the brake lines around a little, pulling one FWD a little & shoving one back a little for (heat) clearance. The BIG Pink wire should be the HEI (HOT) wire. I think mine has two wires in one plug. If you want, you can call me to B.S. about this stuff. I'm just a few months ahead of you in progress so I can (resemble) your remarks! HA!
I also have the JTR book & can give you some really good BIG TIME saver part #s for your instalation. One thing you should definatly get is the intermediate shaft out of a late model ford 1/2 ton! Call me & I'll give you some part #s for your application that will save you a buttload of time. I'm in Wa. Pac. time & will be home tonite. R.C. 360-985-2340
:far:
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top