S-10 Forum banner

21 - 40 of 50 Posts

·
Registered
2003 S10 4.3 2WD
Joined
·
460 Posts
The juice isn't worth the squeeze. For the money spent on that engine, an LS can make that kind of power for a lot less, be drivable and still get good milage.
Cost isn't the point of that engine. Being different is the point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
One thing is for sure, unless you just HAVE to have a V8, it is possible to build a 4.3L plenty strong enough to make traction your weak point so unless you put a posi in it and preferably tub and narrow it, you don't have to have a V8. I have hated on V6's my whole life........this is my first one. Now I have a bone stock 31 year old one and I love it, lol, god I'm old. Nothing worst than all show and no go...brand new Camaro, beautiful paintjob, wheels.... hey man what you got under the hood ? I got a V6 but it runs good ! Then you get the devastating "Oh", LOL.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
28,993 Posts
One thing is for sure, unless you just HAVE to have a V8, it is possible to build a 4.3L plenty strong enough to make traction your weak point so unless you put a posi in it and preferably tub and narrow it, you don't have to have a V8. I have hated on V6's my whole life........this is my first one. Now I have a bone stock 31 year old one and I love it, lol, god I'm old. Nothing worst than all show and no go...brand new Camaro, beautiful paintjob, wheels.... hey man what you got under the hood ? I got a V6 but it runs good ! Then you get the devastating "Oh", LOL.
Cost isn't the point of that engine. Being different is the point.
That may be, but you don't see many people, especially on this forum, dumping a lot of money into the 4.3. To each his own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If I decide to keep this 4.3 and rebuild it after it falls down (@100k now so years away) I will simply put a mild cam in a crate engine, can you put a mildy upgraded cam in with the stock ecm without other modifications ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
It'd be a lot fun to build just for the **** of it. I can appreciate of challenging a collection of parts you picked & you assembled only to push as far as possible.
These results make me ask the same question, "what if ?" Would a 500, 600, 700hp plus turbo 5.3 hold up driven daily? What would break, what would hold?
Looks like too much fun!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
The 4.3 has always impressed me. Many years has taught what's fun to drive.

The +350hp range is highly enjoyable to run the daylights out when right.

I'm reconsidering the "project 383" suggestion I got for cheap parts.

Can my Gen 1 make more power, was it 150hp new. Switching TBI to a carb? Any good gen 1 aftermarket upgrades available? A new 4.3 makes .7hp per cubic inch is 190hp maybe more with butterfly shaved?

Price difference of 350hp LS vs 350hp 4.3? Is it about 1.33 per cube?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That's why I asked earlier, can you build the 4.3 at all with the stock ecm? I am going to change to a carb anyway eventually, but not for performance, to get rid of all the CRAP you don't need. I would rather have a distributor a coil and a carb than a ecm, bcm, map, tps, egr, catalytic convertor, O2 sensor,etc. etc.....sensor sensor sensor sensing the sensor to see if it's sensing........They quit making cars and trucks and started making money pits along time ago imo. If I decide to stay V6, I will rape the fuel and electrical systems, small cam, stock 2 barrel cast iron intake manifold. and a 2 barrel carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
The whole convo made me think. Easy for little trucks to be plenty fast.
What about a Caprice 09 or newer, auction car or wreck, +150k miles, service records, auto 6 speed, +300hp. V6...?
~Has an evil grin~
 

·
Registered
2003 S10 4.3 2WD
Joined
·
460 Posts
That's why I asked earlier, can you build the 4.3 at all with the stock ecm? I am going to change to a carb anyway eventually, but not for performance, to get rid of all the CRAP you don't need. I would rather have a distributor a coil and a carb than a ecm, bcm, map, tps, egr, catalytic convertor, O2 sensor,etc. etc.....sensor sensor sensor sensing the sensor to see if it's sensing........They quit making cars and trucks and started making money pits along time ago imo. If I decide to stay V6, I will rape the fuel and electrical systems, small cam, stock 2 barrel cast iron intake manifold. and a 2 barrel carb.
There is a guy who simply had an exhaust, cold air intake and did the throttle body mod after that he chose to bring it to a dyno tuner and as far as I know it was a stock ECM and he woke the 4.3 up by another 75hp and also did a transmission tune. I would call up your local trusted dyno tuner and see what they say they can and can't do.

Some people say by just the throttle body mod alone they feel a big difference but I personally never done it.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
28,993 Posts
Not sure I can believe a 75hp gain with those mods. The factory air box is already a CAI...not something that sucks up hot under hood air. Most of the guys that are honest say the tb mod isn't worth the touchy throttle, and I doubt it provides a hp increase that's noticeable if at all. Headers for the 4.3 are almost non existent, so that leaves you with a larger Y pipe. A black box ecm isn't that tunable. You'd be better off with the later model ecm's.
 

·
Registered
2003 S10 4.3 2WD
Joined
·
460 Posts
Not sure I can believe a 75hp gain with those mods. The factory air box is already a CAI...not something that sucks up hot under hood air. Most of the guys that are honest say the tb mod isn't worth the touchy throttle, and I doubt it provides a hp increase that's noticeable if at all. Headers for the 4.3 are almost non existent, so that leaves you with a larger Y pipe. A black box ecm isn't that tunable. You'd be better off with the later model ecm's.
Dyno doesn't lie although not all are the same. There is another guy who did similar mods and got I believe it was 55hp increase on a 98. You have to take into consideration the type of dyno and the climate as well.
 

·
Registered
2003 S10 4.3 2WD
Joined
·
460 Posts
I want to see a thread with those gains in there.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
This wasn't on a forum, the 98 was a youtube video.

Right now my truck is stock, however in the near future I may very well do an exhaust, cai, maf screen removal, underdrive pulley, electric fan conversion, I don't think I will do the throttle body mod although that baffle or whatever you want to call it does block a good bit of airflow. But obviously if I go that route it will be dyno tuned.

So if I do that there will be a list of things done and the official before and after numbers shared.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
This wasn't on a forum, the 98 was a youtube video.

Right now my truck is stock, however in the near future I may very well do an exhaust, cai, maf screen removal, underdrive pulley, electric fan conversion, I don't think I will do the throttle body mod although that baffle or whatever you want to call it does block a good bit of airflow. But obviously if I go that route it will be dyno tuned.

So if I do that there will be a list of things done and the official before and after numbers shared.
I don't know if I will rebuild this V6 when it falls down, or put my 350 in it. But I would def like to see what results you get if you do those mods to yours.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
28,993 Posts
Dyno doesn't lie although not all are the same. There is another guy who did similar mods and got I believe it was 55hp increase on a 98. You have to take into consideration the type of dyno and the climate as well.
I don't disagree...but I haven't seen any sheets on it. I do find it odd that the black box ecm was able to do that.
 

·
'99 S10 4.3 2WD RegCab
1999, S10, 4.3, 2WD, Auto, RC-SB, Base
Joined
·
19 Posts
For what it's worth, the owners manual says every 50K.

I change mine every 30K though - I do a full fluid change (oil, coolant, PS, ATF) and change all my filters all at the same time every 30K. Also add in fuel injector cleaner, rotate the tires, a couple other treats for her etc.

325K and running strong. No one believes me that I have the original 1999 spider injectors still in her and the they do not leak, but I digress lol. More relevantly, I had the trans rebuild at around 130K, and again 280K.

So to partially answer your question I can vouche that regularly changing your fluid is probably a good idea, or at very least is not a bad idea.

As for changing it after it had never been changed? Well, if it's at 100K, it's less of an "if" and more of a "when" it will require a rebuild. That's just the typical lifespan of a typical transmission. Maybe some of the crud in there is holding together stuff that's ready to die, or maybe stuff in there is dying from all the crud. Tough call, just mentally prepare yourself for a rebuild in the relatively near future and and ask your magic 8-ball if you should change the fluid or not.
 

·
B4U Task Force Admin
Joined
·
28,993 Posts
For what it's worth, the owners manual says every 50K.

I change mine every 30K though - I do a full fluid change (oil, coolant, PS, ATF) and change all my filters all at the same time every 30K. Also add in fuel injector cleaner, rotate the tires, a couple other treats for her etc.

325K and running strong. No one believes me that I have the original 1999 spider injectors still in her and the they do not leak, but I digress lol. More relevantly, I had the trans rebuild at around 130K, and again 280K.

So to partially answer your question I can vouche that regularly changing your fluid is probably a good idea, or at very least is not a bad idea.

As for changing it after it had never been changed? Well, if it's at 100K, it's less of an "if" and more of a "when" it will require a rebuild. That's just the typical lifespan of a typical transmission. Maybe some of the crud in there is holding together stuff that's ready to die, or maybe stuff in there is dying from all the crud. Tough call, just mentally prepare yourself for a rebuild in the relatively near future and and ask your magic 8-ball if you should change the fluid or not.
A couple of points...fuel injector cleaner will do nothing for your poppets. They require a stand alone cleaner from 3M. The 4L60E in myth truck went 262K before I had it rebuilt, and that was only because I replaced the engine, which was running fine, but I found a good deal on a new rebuilt. I was less than punctual on transmission fluid changes. I did one at 35k and didn't do anything until about 200k. After that was flushed a couple of times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have a '91 4.3l with 4l60E tranny, 103,000 miles. I bought the truck at 100k. It was a one owner truck and the po said he never changed the tranny fluid. Age old debate here, can I get some input please ?
I have heard adamant opinions from both sides and am trying to make the best decision I can. The question is :

Should you change tranny fluid and filter at 100k or has it been too long and you are safer leaving it alone ?

From what I have read everywhere the consensus is do NOT flush the system but some say it is safe to just change the filter along with the fluid in the pan. I have been building hot rods 40 years, but I am a die hard TH350 man and know nothing about the 4L60E. When this tranny fails I will put in a TH350, make a custom crossmember, and have a driveshaft made, better tranny and bye bye carrier bearing lol. Thanks in advance for any advice.
In 30 years I have found most trannys loose grip if you do a full new fluid transfer. So i say if the fluid is clear and doesnt smell burnt just leave it and add as needed. If the fluid looks a bit brown and you can read a label thru a drop then maybe drop pan and drain fluid into clean pan. Change the filter and pour fluid thru a tshirt or coffee filter then put it back in. New fluid is slippery so will prob slip/burn clutches in a week and fry the tranny. If the fluid is dark brown/black and smells like burnt cardboard then top fluids and save for a rebuild. Trannys are gears with cardboard like sheets for clutches. When the fiber/paper burns then its carbon or steel against steel which slips. If in doubt just top it and maybe change filter. If its black time to pray. Never flush it even voids factory warranties.
 

·
FLORIDA BUTCH
Joined
·
96 Posts
Ditto that. going bak to th350 from 4l60e is same league as returning to steam power from diesel.
I have a B&M Turbo 400 in mine. It was the easy thing to do without a computer. It a 3 speed, but so what? I don't want a computer shifting my Truck. I didn't build my truck to save on gas. If I wanted to save on gas, I'd but a Communist Car. Many people don't realize that the newer automatic transmissions, like the 4L60E, are not 4 speed transmissions. They are 3 speed , with overdrive. 3 speed, just like a TH350, or TH400. If you are racing someone, you don't shift into overdrive.
Overdrive transmissions are now Old Fashion. My new 7 speed Veloster does not shift with a computer.
 
21 - 40 of 50 Posts
Top