One thing is for sure, unless you just HAVE to have a V8, it is possible to build a 4.3L plenty strong enough to make traction your weak point so unless you put a posi in it and preferably tub and narrow it, you don't have to have a V8. I have hated on V6's my whole life........this is my first one. Now I have a bone stock 31 year old one and I love it, lol, god I'm old. Nothing worst than all show and no go...brand new Camaro, beautiful paintjob, wheels.... hey man what you got under the hood ? I got a V6 but it runs good ! Then you get the devastating "Oh", LOL.
That may be, but you don't see many people, especially on this forum, dumping a lot of money into the 4.3. To each his own.Cost isn't the point of that engine. Being different is the point.
There is a guy who simply had an exhaust, cold air intake and did the throttle body mod after that he chose to bring it to a dyno tuner and as far as I know it was a stock ECM and he woke the 4.3 up by another 75hp and also did a transmission tune. I would call up your local trusted dyno tuner and see what they say they can and can't do.That's why I asked earlier, can you build the 4.3 at all with the stock ecm? I am going to change to a carb anyway eventually, but not for performance, to get rid of all the CRAP you don't need. I would rather have a distributor a coil and a carb than a ecm, bcm, map, tps, egr, catalytic convertor, O2 sensor,etc. etc.....sensor sensor sensor sensing the sensor to see if it's sensing........They quit making cars and trucks and started making money pits along time ago imo. If I decide to stay V6, I will rape the fuel and electrical systems, small cam, stock 2 barrel cast iron intake manifold. and a 2 barrel carb.
Dyno doesn't lie although not all are the same. There is another guy who did similar mods and got I believe it was 55hp increase on a 98. You have to take into consideration the type of dyno and the climate as well.Not sure I can believe a 75hp gain with those mods. The factory air box is already a CAI...not something that sucks up hot under hood air. Most of the guys that are honest say the tb mod isn't worth the touchy throttle, and I doubt it provides a hp increase that's noticeable if at all. Headers for the 4.3 are almost non existent, so that leaves you with a larger Y pipe. A black box ecm isn't that tunable. You'd be better off with the later model ecm's.
This wasn't on a forum, the 98 was a youtube video.I want to see a thread with those gains in there.
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I don't know if I will rebuild this V6 when it falls down, or put my 350 in it. But I would def like to see what results you get if you do those mods to yours.This wasn't on a forum, the 98 was a youtube video.
Right now my truck is stock, however in the near future I may very well do an exhaust, cai, maf screen removal, underdrive pulley, electric fan conversion, I don't think I will do the throttle body mod although that baffle or whatever you want to call it does block a good bit of airflow. But obviously if I go that route it will be dyno tuned.
So if I do that there will be a list of things done and the official before and after numbers shared.
I don't disagree...but I haven't seen any sheets on it. I do find it odd that the black box ecm was able to do that.Dyno doesn't lie although not all are the same. There is another guy who did similar mods and got I believe it was 55hp increase on a 98. You have to take into consideration the type of dyno and the climate as well.
A couple of points...fuel injector cleaner will do nothing for your poppets. They require a stand alone cleaner from 3M. The 4L60E in myth truck went 262K before I had it rebuilt, and that was only because I replaced the engine, which was running fine, but I found a good deal on a new rebuilt. I was less than punctual on transmission fluid changes. I did one at 35k and didn't do anything until about 200k. After that was flushed a couple of times.For what it's worth, the owners manual says every 50K.
I change mine every 30K though - I do a full fluid change (oil, coolant, PS, ATF) and change all my filters all at the same time every 30K. Also add in fuel injector cleaner, rotate the tires, a couple other treats for her etc.
325K and running strong. No one believes me that I have the original 1999 spider injectors still in her and the they do not leak, but I digress lol. More relevantly, I had the trans rebuild at around 130K, and again 280K.
So to partially answer your question I can vouche that regularly changing your fluid is probably a good idea, or at very least is not a bad idea.
As for changing it after it had never been changed? Well, if it's at 100K, it's less of an "if" and more of a "when" it will require a rebuild. That's just the typical lifespan of a typical transmission. Maybe some of the crud in there is holding together stuff that's ready to die, or maybe stuff in there is dying from all the crud. Tough call, just mentally prepare yourself for a rebuild in the relatively near future and and ask your magic 8-ball if you should change the fluid or not.
In 30 years I have found most trannys loose grip if you do a full new fluid transfer. So i say if the fluid is clear and doesnt smell burnt just leave it and add as needed. If the fluid looks a bit brown and you can read a label thru a drop then maybe drop pan and drain fluid into clean pan. Change the filter and pour fluid thru a tshirt or coffee filter then put it back in. New fluid is slippery so will prob slip/burn clutches in a week and fry the tranny. If the fluid is dark brown/black and smells like burnt cardboard then top fluids and save for a rebuild. Trannys are gears with cardboard like sheets for clutches. When the fiber/paper burns then its carbon or steel against steel which slips. If in doubt just top it and maybe change filter. If its black time to pray. Never flush it even voids factory warranties.I have a '91 4.3l with 4l60E tranny, 103,000 miles. I bought the truck at 100k. It was a one owner truck and the po said he never changed the tranny fluid. Age old debate here, can I get some input please ?
I have heard adamant opinions from both sides and am trying to make the best decision I can. The question is :
Should you change tranny fluid and filter at 100k or has it been too long and you are safer leaving it alone ?
From what I have read everywhere the consensus is do NOT flush the system but some say it is safe to just change the filter along with the fluid in the pan. I have been building hot rods 40 years, but I am a die hard TH350 man and know nothing about the 4L60E. When this tranny fails I will put in a TH350, make a custom crossmember, and have a driveshaft made, better tranny and bye bye carrier bearing lol. Thanks in advance for any advice.
I have a B&M Turbo 400 in mine. It was the easy thing to do without a computer. It a 3 speed, but so what? I don't want a computer shifting my Truck. I didn't build my truck to save on gas. If I wanted to save on gas, I'd but a Communist Car. Many people don't realize that the newer automatic transmissions, like the 4L60E, are not 4 speed transmissions. They are 3 speed , with overdrive. 3 speed, just like a TH350, or TH400. If you are racing someone, you don't shift into overdrive.Ditto that. going bak to th350 from 4l60e is same league as returning to steam power from diesel.