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Discussion Starter #1
About a year ago I replaced the crappy aftermarket starter on my 4.3 vin Z when it started acting up (probably solenoid). I did most things wrong probably, pulled down the starter and let it hang on the wires while removing them, ended up having to re-terminate the small ground wire. I set flywheel to bendix gear spacing using a piece of .125 welding rod I bent into a shape that would go between the flywheel and starter shaft, since I read that people use a 1/8 drill bit.

Once in a blue moon since then, the starter would hang up when I started the truck. That should have been a warning sign that I needed to shim it more, but it hardly ever happened and I was always able to just shut off the engine and start it up again and it wouldn’t hang up.

Recently after a long trip on the highway, I went to start up the truck and it didn’t crank, the solenoid just clicked. I checked battery voltage and it was fine, kept trying then eventually push started. Which didn’t work, but did move the flywheel enough that the starter engaged, but would hang up. I tried shutting off the engine and re-starting several times, and hammering on the starter with the end of a pipe, but gave up and drove it home still hung up with the plan to replace it.

Now I have it up on stands and have a new OEM starter ready to install. I was wondering if you guys have any tips on:

1. Disconnecting the starter terminals before removing the starter, so as not to put stress on them. I can’t figure out a combination of sockets or wrenches that makes it easy in the tight space between the control arm, body panel, and motor mount.

2.Properly setting the gear clearance between the bendix and flywheel. The way the service manual says makes sense, but I do not see any way to physically get the bendix gear engaged with the flywheel and check it with a gage pin without pulling the motor or cutting apart the bellhousing (not an option in my dirt parking spot in my parents front yard). The procedure seems like it was written for a 2 piece bellhousing.

Any advice is appreciated, I’d rather not have to do this again anytime soon.
 

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About a year ago I replaced the crappy aftermarket starter on my 4.3 vin Z when it started acting up (probably solenoid). I did most things wrong probably, pulled down the starter and let it hang on the wires while removing them, ended up having to re-terminate the small ground wire. I set flywheel to bendix gear spacing using a piece of .125 welding rod I bent into a shape that would go between the flywheel and starter shaft, since I read that people use a 1/8 drill bit.

Once in a blue moon since then, the starter would hang up when I started the truck. That should have been a warning sign that I needed to shim it more, but it hardly ever happened and I was always able to just shut off the engine and start it up again and it wouldn’t hang up.

Recently after a long trip on the highway, I went to start up the truck and it didn’t crank, the solenoid just clicked. I checked battery voltage and it was fine, kept trying then eventually push started. Which didn’t work, but did move the flywheel enough that the starter engaged, but would hang up. I tried shutting off the engine and re-starting several times, and hammering on the starter with the end of a pipe, but gave up and drove it home still hung up with the plan to replace it.

Now I have it up on stands and have a new OEM starter ready to install. I was wondering if you guys have any tips on:

1. Disconnecting the starter terminals before removing the starter, so as not to put stress on them. I can’t figure out a combination of sockets or wrenches that makes it easy in the tight space between the control arm, body panel, and motor mount.

2.Properly setting the gear clearance between the bendix and flywheel. The way the service manual says makes sense, but I do not see any way to physically get the bendix gear engaged with the flywheel and check it with a gage pin without pulling the motor or cutting apart the bellhousing (not an option in my dirt parking spot in my parents front yard). The procedure seems like it was written for a 2 piece bellhousing.

Any advice is appreciated, I’d rather not have to do this again anytime soon.
I replaced two solenoid switches on the same starter, still had the clicking only when turning the ignition switch. Going on the pretext, taught at school, most electrical problems are due to a bad ground. I found a loose ground connection, going from the battery to the frame, underneath the lower radiator hose. As per youtube, factory ground cables are at a minimum to bring costs down. So, I added another ground cable from the block to the frame to the battery ground cable. Now, starter "hits" every time. '94 S10 4.3L
 

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94 4x4,01 Blazer
2001 Blazer 4dr 4wd LT
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1- do check ALL the grounds
2- Loosen bolts and wiggle the starter- feel how far it twists and try and center it in the twist- retighten and give it a try. PS a small tool roll under the seat with a ratchet and some sockets and a set of combination wrenches , one each screwdrivers a GOOD flashlight go a long way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
1- do check ALL the grounds
2- Loosen bolts and wiggle the starter- feel how far it twists and try and center it in the twist- retighten and give it a try. PS a small tool roll under the seat with a ratchet and some sockets and a set of combination wrenches , one each screwdrivers a GOOD flashlight go a long way.
Thanks for the tip, I hadn’t considered any slop in the starter bolts allowing the starter shaft to rotate closer/farther from the flywheel when torquing.
When I install the new starter will probably check spacing with the .125 wire again, but this time check again after torquing the mount bolts.
 

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I am not sure if this helps but recently i replaced the starter on my 92 s10 4.3 with a new starter from a 1999 Chevy suburban 5.7 gas engine. A gear reduction starter and a lot smaller that i could easily get to the starter wires. I bought 2 new starter bolts because the suburban starter is smaller. Bolted right up and works great
 

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I am not sure if this helps but recently i replaced the starter on my 92 s10 4.3 with a new starter from a 1999 Chevy suburban 5.7 gas engine. A gear reduction starter and a lot smaller that i could easily get to the starter wires. I bought 2 new starter bolts because the suburban starter is smaller. Bolted right up and works great
....I have been told the gear reduction starter works fine.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am not sure if this helps but recently i replaced the starter on my 92 s10 4.3 with a new starter from a 1999 Chevy suburban 5.7 gas engine. A gear reduction starter and a lot smaller that i could easily get to the starter wires. I bought 2 new starter bolts because the suburban starter is smaller. Bolted right up and works great
Nice, now I wish I hadn’t already bought a direct replacement lol. Looking at photos of that gear reduction starter there’s definitely a lot more room to get at the wires.
 

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Nice, now I wish I hadn’t already bought a direct replacement lol. Looking at photos of that gear reduction starter there’s definitely a lot more room to get at the wires.
I have Edelbrock hedders on my s10 and only one very tight way to remove the starter and hold at a angle to remove the starter wires. I was told to try the suburban starter with new bolts for that starter. I was ready to try anything to avoid putting it all back. I was able to bolt the gear reduction starter up and then install my wires and I noticed the solenoid wasn’t that close to my hedder and wow it all worked out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Short harbor freight 1/4 sockets are the trick to getting the power and ground leads off the solenoid. The big nut towards the outside of the engine is 1/2, the little one towards the inside is 5/16.

After getting off the old starter, I’m wondering if there may have been a problem with the starter itself, and not the spacing from flywheel. The bendix gear is spring loaded towards the flywheel, see below:
342809

On the new starter, the bendix gear is entirely inside the housing and seems to be spring loaded AWAY from the flywheel:
342810

Does anyone know what might be causing this? Both are the exact same ACDelco 337-1011 PN. Besides the gear spring loaded towards the flywheel, the old starter also had a bit of wobble in the positive post on the solenoid.

Also, where could one find a good rebuild kit for these ACDelco starters? Normally I wouldn’t bother rebuilding the old one but am curious about the inner workings now.
 
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