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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I am new to the forum, I need some advice about removing the oil pan on a 1996 2.2, but first, I'll tell my story!

a buddy of mine is pretty illiterate with cars, and he had a 1996 ext cab, 2wd with 81,000 miles on it. It died on him at an intersection. He towed it to a shop, and they told him timing chain was gone, and that it'd be at least $1,000 to fix it. He decided to buy a new 2003 Extreme Blazer instead. I helped him get a good deal on the new one ($18,000), and then I towed the 1996 to my house and went to work. I pulled it apart, and sure enough, the timing chain was broke. Part of the plastic was missing off the tensioner, and now it sounds like that is in the oil pan. Everything I found listed the 2.2 as a non-interference motor, so I was confident that the head would be OK. Unfortunately, this was not the case. I got it started and #1 was not firing. So I pulled the head and found this:



Luckily the valve guide was OK. I got the valve redone for $100 and put it back together. The motor purrs, but now it sounds like the plastic piece of the tensioner is bouncing around in the oil pan. I want to sell the truck, but of course no one will buy it sounding like that! Has anyone had any experience with pulling the oil pan without pulling the engine out. I am going to look at it in a few days, just don't have time at the moment! I was also considering just driving it until the plastic is tore up and see if it stops!

If anyone wants the truck like it sits I'll sell it for like $2500 at this point! It is in good shape over all, a few dings in the body.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, I answered my own question today. It is possible to drop the oil pan in the truck. Pulling the starter was the biggest pain. That bracket onto the block is tight. I jacked up a few inches outta the motor mounts and got my hand in enough to reach back in there and pull out four good sized tensioner chunks. I was hoping that when it fired up things would be OK, but it sounds the same. :banghead: At idle, it sounds like something is bouncing around inside the lower front of the engine. When I rev it it smooths out and sounds fine. I think maybe I screwed up the tensioner install somehow and it is screwed now. Maybe the chain is tightening up when I rev it? It also through a SES code for cylinder #1 misfire one time. I'll keep the board posted (if anyone cares!)

Take my advice, if you have a 2.2 with over 75,000 miles change the chain and tensioner now! Save all this :banghead: !

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hey Thanks [email protected]

Ok, I pulled the timing chain cover again today...man am I getting tired of working on this truck in the cold! I need a house with a garage, but that is another post!

When I got it down I noticed a half circle gouge on the inside of the timing chain cover at the crank gear. The Pulley was not seated all the way on the crank, and the gear was rubbing on the cover. The first time I used the crank pulley bolt to pull the hub on, but obviously it wasn't enough. I used a big ass hammer this time, and when I fired it up the rattling noise is gone! It threw a SES code for #1 misfire, but the engine feels real good. I didn't do the plug wires, so I'll try that, but I am just happy that it sounds normal. It has been a lot of work!

I'll say it again: Replace your timing chain before it breaks on these 2.2's! It is an easy job if you do it before breakage. I had it done and back on in 3 hours.

Ed
 

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Hi Ed,
Glad you found your trouble. I'm not arguing here, but fwiw, I feel that your timing chain failure was a fluke. I re-built my 2.2 at 155K, and the gears looked good, and the chain had only a little slop. It was the original chain and gears. Maybe your truck wasn't treated well, as far as oil changes and such.
Fwiw - I've always used mobile 1, and changed it every 8-9K. I had a reoccuring head gasket problem, and I got the engine hot and cracked the head at 155K. Ifelt it was logical to pull it and freshen it with that many miles. The only internal issues with it were the pistons were loose on the wrist pins. I'm a cheap sob, and there was only about .001" of taper in the bores, so I just dingle ball honed it and stuck in four new standard pistons. Btw, I know that changing even synth at 8-9K seems dumb, but the engine was clean as a whistle, and the crank and bearings looked great for 155K. I would not have been afraid to re-use the bearings, although I didn't.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That is true, the truck belonged to a buddy of mine, and he ran it into the ground. It looks like I got it sold for $2000 like it sits. Good luck to all of you guys in 2.2 land. I am back to modding my LS1 Z-28!

Ed
 

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Holy shit this is an old thread.


Any major parts store can get one for you, or make a freind at the dealer and get it discounted.
 
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