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Update:

So I finally got half the axle off and part of the dif pulled. The problem was were I expected it to be, part of the fork had broken off and was jamming the gears so the slide collar could not move. After getting it pulled apart and cleaned the only thing I need is a new seal and a new fork. Anyone know where I can get the right parts from?

The orange arrows mark where the seal was sitting. Very small and thin, and it just crumbled from age.
I'm aware of the 2 rough spots, the lose pieces of metal get friction welded. Gonna get these cleaned up, unless someone post that part and its cheap.

The other 2 pictures are of the fork, it's in rough shape and need a new one. It has 2604 etched on it.

Thank you!

Disclaimer: This is my first time ever working on a car or anything like this. Thanks for keeping it simple!
 

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Why not just get a bravada axle and be done with that all that part


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Search on the bravada axle swap. Easier then locating and reaping the parts you’re looking for. Plus will be more dependable in the long run


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Search on the bravada axle swap. Easier then locating and reaping the parts you’re looking for. Plus will be more dependable in the long run


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Yeah I looked into it a bit. I'm not really feeling digging around scrap years in the dead of winter. I'm fine with just fixing it back to how it was and possibly doing a swap in the summer.
 

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Parts of the shift fork broke off and got friction welded to the assembly, I did some grinding and polishing and everything looks good now. I have a fork shipping from GM and I'm just going to use rtv for the seal. Once it's all back together will update with the good news.
 

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If you are talking about the round seal on the shift fork, RTV won't work. It doesn't have any tension. If yours wasn't leaking you might be OK.
If you need one it is part number 2603643. Item #16 in this picture.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/S10/SEAL-Front-Drive-Axle-ShifterLock/3061704/26036438.html?partner=googlebase_adwords_parts_oe_make_model&kwd=&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7dHSBRDEARIsAJhAHwigFn30OThNhjguADQebanwFCb_0srsjNkEatMeoO5-sbSqOZM31dMaArBTEALw_wcB

You do need to put a SMALL amount evenly applied on the end of the cover when you re-install it to seal the cover plate to the differential housing.
 

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If you are talking about the round seal on the shift fork, RTV won't work. It doesn't have any tension. If yours wasn't leaking you might be OK.
If you need one it is part number 2603643. Item #16 in this picture.
https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/S10/SEAL-Front-Drive-Axle-ShifterLock/3061704/26036438.html?partner=googlebase_adwords_parts_oe_make_model&kwd=&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7dHSBRDEARIsAJhAHwigFn30OThNhjguADQebanwFCb_0srsjNkEatMeoO5-sbSqOZM31dMaArBTEALw_wcB

You do need to put a SMALL amount evenly applied on the end of the cover when you re-install it to seal the cover plate to the differential housing.
Thank you but I don't think that one is leaking. The cover plate had a thin seal on it that came apart that I want to fix with RTV. So that should work.
Once this is back together, what do I fill it with? Like the type of fluid, some sort of gear oil? How full?

The seal went right into that groove.
https://imgur.com/a/2nGJm
 

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Update:

So I finally got half the axle off and part of the dif pulled. The problem was were I expected it to be, part of the fork had broken off and was jamming the gears so the slide collar could not move. After getting it pulled apart and cleaned the only thing I need is a new seal and a new fork. Anyone know where I can get the right parts from?

The orange arrows mark where the seal was sitting. Very small and thin, and it just crumbled from age.
I'm aware of the 2 rough spots, the lose pieces of metal get friction welded. Gonna get these cleaned up, unless someone post that part and its cheap.

The other 2 pictures are of the fork, it's in rough shape and need a new one. It has 2604 etched on it.

Thank you!

Disclaimer: This is my first time ever working on a car or anything like this. Thanks for keeping it simple!
This video might help you too.
 

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Hey everyone! I'm new to the forum but have been using it a bunch the last month or so to troubleshoot my 4x4 issue. I have narrowed it down to the transfer case switch but now I'm stuck. Any help would be appreciated. I have a 1994 S10 LS 4.3L. The 4x4 isn't engaging and it's had some other issues that are vacuum related (only defrost working etc). I've gotten all of that fixed thanks to this forum but I'm still stuck with no 4x4. Here's what I've done so far:

-Replaced vacuum actuator under battery tray as it was bad from transmission fluid
-replaced the canister as it was pretty full with fluid as well
-replaced quite a bit of vacuum line including the one going from the transfer case switch to the actuator under the battery tray
-blew out the other lines to make sure it was clear of transmission fluid
-checked the front differential cable for free movement
-confirmed that the 3 lines going into the TC switch are in the correct position
-got the truck on jacks and confirmed when I engage the 4x4 via the panel in the truck it engages the front axel as it should so that is working
-had someone manually pull the front actuator cable and confirmed the front wheels start to turn

Now that I've done all that, there is still no vacuum going to the actuator under the battery tray. I've pulled that hose off even after replacing it and there is no suction when 4x4 is engaged. I pulled off the rubber connector that slides on the TC switch and there is a vacuum coming from the line that is coming from the engine/orb like it should. I've then re-connected that connector to the TC switch and pulled off the hose going to the actuator. With 4x4 engaged there is no suction coming out the switch from the prong that goes to the actuator. So that tells me it is something with the switch. I read that the transmission seal between the transmission and TC can go bad allowing the TC to get excess transmission fluid in it. The previous TC switch had clearly allowed transmission fluid to get in the previous actuator and orb so I checked the TC max full port and when I took that plug out a bunch of excess fluid came out. Probably at least 20oz so I'm sure that seal has failed which is another issue for the future. However, I've installed a new GM OEM TC switch and it's still not supplying vacuum to the actuator. Any ideas what could be going on here? I have gone through 55+ pages on this forum and haven't found this specific issue.
Apologies if I missed it. Sorry for this being so lengthy but there are a ton of super knowledgeable people on this forum and I just wanted to give you as much info to help you diagnose the issue. Thanks in advance for the responses.
 

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now onto the switch. the switch looks like this


if you look at the top, where the lines go in you will notice a little "key"


this lines up with a similar spot on the female end


the three vacuum lines must be in the right spot in order to function properly. take the female end of the vacuum lines, looking at the open end towards you like in the above pic. if you orientate it to where the key is on top, the lines are as follows


if anyone has any questions, or wants any more pics, just ask.
Super helpful thread! And it still has working pictures! :clap:

The first pictures are obviously different from my '02 Vortec V6 but I'm guessing by the time you get down to the transfer case switch, they all work the same. I need to replace those three coming out of the transfer case and I'll have them all done. I guess the vent line does not REALLY need to be done, but I'll do it anyway.

Thanks!
 

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I finished changing my vac lines today.

I used red and blue silicone hose to help identify parts of the circuit in case I need to work on it again later. Blue is vacuum feed from the manifold. Red goes from the transfer case switch to the actuator. Regular old black is the vent line

A tip: once you pop the three-hose cap and its hoses off the transfer case switch, you can pull it over to the passenger side of the transfer case and have more slack and much easier access to change stuff out. Once you are done, stuff it back across to the driver's side where the switch is and hook it up.



To pull the new hose through, I used some smaller vinyl vac line (similar to the windshield washer supply tubing) to splice the old hose to the new. Then I taped the joint so it wouldn't come apart and pulled it through.



You can see how crusty and old the original hose is.

 

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Very good write up Don...

The only downfall tho...those vaccum lines and switches on the side of the tcase are not easiest to get to with the body on...It can become a major pain....But you hit the nail on the head...
I have came to the part where I want to take the switch off. Just Like you said, very hard to get to. Can anyone recommend a tool or procedure that would make the removal possible. I have replaced what seems like about 10 feet of rotten vacuum hose so far on my 1999 S10, so at this point. I would like to see this problem fixed....
 
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