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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not 100% sure if I'm just to picky to drive a GM truck, but I've got an issue with the way this truck drives down the highway. On smooth asphalt the blazer rides like butta, but once I get to grooved cement or lumpy asphalt the truck is bouncy, and tons of vibration shoots up the steering wheel and into the floor. Its not uncontrollable by any means, but none the less annoying and way more rough then any other truck I've driven.

The truck has the torsion bars cranked down, Proforged Ball joints, Timken bearings, new Moog idler, 16" F-Body rims, and new 235/60 R16 tires. I run 38 PSI in the tires, which might be too high, but they seem to ride/handle best this way.

I'm replacing the outer tie rods in the next week because they are loose, but not so loose that they are dangerous.

Pitman is good.

Seems like the rag joint is ok, but I can't be 100% sure about that. I've read that can cause the issue too though. Should I look into that some more?


Thanks all in advanced for any insight.
 

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Have you checked the shocks? Worn out shocks will no hold the tire to the road and make the bounce you are describing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've got new ones, but honestly that had also crossed my mind. I went with Gabriel Monomax shocks, and I've been continually hearing bad things about them. It doesn't bounce or anything though when I hit a bump. Just a nice solid thud, maybe one rebound most times. That wouldn't really explain the vibration though.

Edit: I should also add that when I got the shocks, I got them on clearance extremely cheap. They both rebounded differently however. (One rebounded faster then another while priming them before install.)

Just throwing things out there.
 

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The truck has the torsion bars cranked down
How low?

You should be able to slide your fingers between the lower control arm and the snubber. You need wheel travel or dips & bumps are going to be sent to the frame/body through the snubber if the shock isn't allowed to do its thing. Can you bounce the front end by hand? If not you are likely riding on the snubbers.

Going 60 series tires on a 4wd is also going to firm up the ride significantly over the 70/75 series tires that they come with.

My Jimmy lower 3" with 45 series tires rides firm but not harsh. I do feel every every road patch or joint because of the low pro tires, you have little sidewall to absorb this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I can bounce my truck, yes. There is a solid 1" between the bump stops and the lower control arms. I had cut the bump stops down back when I lowered the front end.

I did want the ride firmer, and the 60 series tires helped to accomplish that. It just seems like the amount of vibration in the steering wheel is way more then it should be. My Xtreme ran 50 series tires and was a ton smoother and in much worse shape front end wise.

Maybe I'm explaining it wrong. You can watch my hands and wheel shake on grooved or bumpy concrete pavement. Seems like something is loose, but I can't figure out what.
 

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You may have some looseness then.

I'd do a through check of the front end. Tie rod ends and ball joints can cause a "rattling" in the feel over rough surface.

To check the ball joints properly you need to remove the T-bar preload on the lower control arms. With the front wheels safely off the ground and on stands lift the lower control arm and the extreme outer end. Lift as much as you can without lifting the truck off the stands.

Now use a lever, like a pipe or bar to lift the tire. Place a block or jack stand in front of the tire that is just a bit higher than the bottom of the tire. Slip the bar/pipe over the block/stand and under the tire tread and lever the tire up & down. Watch the lower ball joint for movement between the lower control arm and the spindle. You should have much less than 1/8".

Now you can also check the upper ball joint & control arm bushings.
Grab the tire top & bottom and rock alternately in & out. With the suspension unloaded the upper ball joint will reveal any looseness. You can also move the upper control arm in and out and look for any looseness in the bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ball joints are all new (Lowers were loose, uppers had a dried/cracked out boot), and I have checked the control arm bushings in the way you explained in the past and they are tight. New Idler too. Everything I've bought is either Moog or PP Proforged.

I have new tie rods on order, as they are loose, but not terrible. If that fixes the issue I will be ecstatic, but so far nothing else I've done has, so I though I'd open a thread to see if I'm going the wrong direction.

Thanks you guys for your help so far.
 

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And your sure you don't have a bent wheel or out of balance tire? I know it seems obvious but with the shake in the steering wheel, it could be it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^Had the wheels balanced quite a few times. No one has ever said anything. Its smooth on smooth roads though.
 

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jack up the pass side tire under the shock/coil pring indention of the lower control arm,check the side to side play of the tire like a back and forth left right turn while its slightly off the ground.gm are notorious for wearing out the idler arms.at 75,000 miles i'm going for my third.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I replaced the idler....

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

It ended up being partially seized inner tie rods. I was originally only planning on replacing the outers until I found out how jumpy the inners were. I figure at one point they were rusted together, as this truck sat for some time (around 4yrs) before I bought it.

Truck rides about a 100% better even being un-aligned now...

Either way I'm happy and I'm getting it aligned today.
 

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Glad you found this issue
 
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