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no need to be a dick and spark up an argument - either of you...goddamn, this is supposed to be a place for people to come and be able to learn and get tips, not witness a e-pissing contest...grow the fock up.

on one hand, nick..you didn't have to be a dick about it, any pictures included in this thread as a reference, or to spark up peoples ideas, and get a basis of what they are looking to do should be welcome, although on the other hand, i feel it was pretty shitty to come in and say.."oh if this is how it looks when done right..." i can respect both of you guys work, for the simple fact i've not been able to dive into a complete fiberglass interior build myself yet...so, i'd shake both of your hands on a job well done, but at the end of the day, it seems like ya'll have some killer egos.
 

· Works too much.
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Holy freakin' flamboyant color scheme, my eyes are burning. I can appreciate the work that went into that, but I'd rather a simple and clean interior.

Nick thanks for sharing your knowledge and trade secrets. I'll be posting some pics of some of the 'glassing projects I've been working on for some constructive criticism sooner or later. :)
 

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OK,
FIrst off i would like to apologize to everyone on the forum for what i said including Nick. I give credit to anyone who is capable of building anything from scratch. Fiberglassing is an art form and i never meant that i was better than anyone else. Honestly its been a rough day and i apologize to nick for being an ass.
 

· I Like Fire....HaHaHa
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Discussion Starter · #844 ·
OK,
FIrst off i would like to apologize to everyone on the forum for what i said including Nick. I give credit to anyone who is capable of building anything from scratch. Fiberglassing is an art form and i never meant that i was better than anyone else. Honestly its been a rough day and i apologize to nick for being an ass.

LOL!!!!!!! Me too. Apology given and accepted. Friday was a fukked up day myself.

My experience glassing and composite work stems primarily with carbon using pretty specialized tools, impregnated fabrics and molds. The purpose of this thread was translating an industrial setting to someone's garage using common tools and fabrics that can generally be found locally and then adapting highly toned-down "Cliff's Note's" style techniques to ensure shape is created and strength is always present.
 

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i got an idea to cover my door panels in carbon fiber
i figure it will take around a yard per panel

im planning on using this epoxy becuase of its lack of amine blush

http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-KIT...39:1|66:3|65:12|240:1308&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

my question is, i lay down the CF and laminate it to my smoothed door panels, should i poor the epoxy on to about 1/8th inch and wetsand it smooth? i guess im asking how it will look before i make the investment
thanks
 

· HUNG LOW
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nick your attention to detail kind of makes me sick haha
my add drives me crazy if i focus that much on something
 

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Looking through this and had something to say...

Why do you pin your fabric to the work bench? I think you would have a much easier time with fewer wrinkles and warping issues if you-
1. Use CA glue to glue the fabric to pieces that aren't wood.
2. Rabit the edges on your wood projects and staple the fabric in the groove.

Either of those methods will give you a lot more control over how your fabric is pulled so that you can get curves to match on symmetrical pieces, and you also won't worry so much about wrinkles or your piece shifting during working.
 

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i usually staple my spandex to a piece of plywood, and stack bricks or something, and then place the item i'm stretching over, and place it over the bricks, so its pulling extra tight, i can't say i've ever had any wrinkles with doing this method myself..



 

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I'm not going to say it's wrong to do it like that because it certainly works. There's a lot less work to finish the edges on a piece with the fabric stapled in a rabbited edge. You're also going to waste a lot more fabric with stapling it to the bench. I have never seen the method of stapling to the bench until I joined this site; nearly everyone of fiberglassforums.com is using the rabbited edge method. Just give it a shot on your next piece. I think you'll see how much less work it is to finish your edges.
 

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well that wasn't really a good example, i didn't have a wood base, it was a fiberglass mold of the storage compartment of a blazer center console, so i really didn't have a surface to rabbit to...

i actually had a thread on that gauge pod build over on FF.com...
 

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Making a mold by stretching material over... that's new to me. Usually it's tape, foil, and sometimes mold release, or just straight wax and mold release. That has got to be hard to work with.. not to mention it really limits the shape and complexity of pieces you can mold.
 

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Ok so my dash is TOTALLY cracked and like cracks when you put pressure on it. Is there any way I can still fiberglass over this, or am i better off making a new dash from scratch? BTW, your work is friggen SICK!!!
 

· Eric
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So im thinking of eventually fiberglassing some parts in my truck.

Considering the costs of glassing (it seems a bit pricey) im only going to do certain parts with glass (headliner and a few other things)...the rest i want to smooth. Can you tell the difference between smoothing and glassing with the finished product? I mean assuming i wet sand them to their full potential...are there any noticeable differences?
 

· "SHOW TIME PRIME"
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So im thinking of eventually fiberglassing some parts in my truck.

Considering the costs of glassing (it seems a bit pricey) im only going to do certain parts with glass (headliner and a few other things)...the rest i want to smooth. Can you tell the difference between smoothing and glassing with the finished product? I mean assuming i wet sand them to their full potential...are there any noticeable differences?
painting them both would look the same. you basically fiberglass something when you wanna shave parts or change things or make things. like the guy a few posts up is makin a guage pod for his airguages. that would need to be glassed obviously but if you want to paint ur door panels but leave them looking factory design then u would just sand them smooth and paint.
 

· Eric
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painting them both would look the same. you basically fiberglass something when you wanna shave parts or change things or make things. like the guy a few posts up is makin a guage pod for his airguages. that would need to be glassed obviously but if you want to paint ur door panels but leave them looking factory design then u would just sand them smooth and paint.
Alright...thats what i though. Ive been looking at it for a couple months on here now and couldnt really see a difference. The only thing that i really want to glass right now is my headliner...besides that.....Im not really sure yet. So i am gonna start tearing apart my truck this summer :D
 

· "SHOW TIME PRIME"
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Alright...thats what i though. Ive been looking at it for a couple months on here now and couldnt really see a difference. The only thing that i really want to glass right now is my headliner...besides that.....Im not really sure yet. So i am gonna start tearing apart my truck this summer :D
just make sure when u sand down ur headliner after its glassed to block it and make it all smooth..just like body work if its not straight b4 u paint it u will see all the waves and stuff more so with dark colors
 

· Eric
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Ill remember that one...Im looking to just rattle can it black with a coat or two of clear. Im hoping it wont be to hard to do as a first project. Im gonna fill in the dips for the visors because i hate them...and im gonna redo the dome light somehow with led light bars somewhere else.
Thanks for the pointers though
 

· "SHOW TIME PRIME"
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i have dome light out of a silverado in mine like 2000 bodystyle i think. looks alot better than the s10 factory one and u just have to trim to hole in ur headliner just a tiny bit to make it fit
 
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