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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Won’t be doing it until next year, but would like to go ahead and have a parts list. All I could find on here was a parts list for bolting a T56 to a LT style engine. It will be bolted to a 5.3 in a 2000 2dr 2wd Blazer with a NV3500. Also what kind of gas mileage are you guys getting with this swap and what gear ratio are you running?
 

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Are you using an LS or LT T56?
 

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You need to make sure if you get a T56 you get an lS t56, the belhousing and throw out bearing and slave cylinder are all different on the gen 2 lt trans vs the gen 3 ls trans. Another new swap to the drifting/drag racing community is the Nissan CD09 trans. A good T56 trans is more expensive than a CD09 trans but the swap parts you need like the bell housing make them about the same price vs one another but the CD09 is a little bit strong and replacement parts are cheaper. Just a different option. Also the gear ratios are a bit tighter on the CD09 I believe*
 

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You should check with @Harley. I think that's what he has in the Blazer behind a 5.3.
 

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Hello,

I went the expensive-but-complete route and bought a T56 Magnum kit from American Powertrain for my '82, but I needed everything. My truck had a cable speedometer and cable clutch so I needed a way to drive the speedometer and I needed all of the hydraulics. I didn't have any luck finding an LS T56, and after I factored in all of the parts I needed, and a rebuild, it got close enough to the price of a kit that I just bought the kit.

For an LS T56 (4th gen Camaro/Firebird/GTO/CTS-V/G8, not sure about 6th gen Camaro or Chevy SS), you'll need the bellhousing, clutch disc/pressure plate/hydraulic slave cylinder/crank bushing, a crossmember, and the shifter. Depending on which T56 you get, the shifter may be pretty far back. On the T56 Magnum, you can choose shifter locations. I've got mine in the front-most position and it came through the floor where my T4 shifter was without cutting anything.

I don't know if the T56 uses the same driveshaft spline and size as the NV3500, so you might need the driveshaft yoke too.

There were some dire warnings about dial-indicating the T56 bellhousing to make sure the transmission input shaft is centered properly. The LS bellhousing doesn't have a traditional circular hole with an indicating ring on the transmission like older small blocks, so I bought a special tool to use to do that job. Mine was spot-on and needed no offset bushings. I have a feeling that's the norm.

I suspect your clutch master cylinder would work but I'm not 100% sure. My kit came with a Wilwood master cylinder. Worst case, you could probably use the 4th gen Camaro master cylinder with a bit of work.

Your NV3500 crossmember may need to be modified to fit. G-Force now sells a T56 crossmember for S10s. I've got one in mine. They're really strong, and really heavy. The mount location worked out but it's very low, so I had to use a lot of shims to get my pinion angle right. For a drag-only truck that could use a lot of pinion angle, it would be perfect. Holley also sells a T56 S10 crossmember if your NV3500 one won't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’m going with a LS t56. My friend talked to American powertrain today and is going to get their t56 kit for his 88. If you don’t mind me asking how much did that all run you? Do you have any pics of the install and shifter location?
 

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Hello,

The total, including shipping (FedEx Freight) was just under $5900. That was a $3000 transmission, their hydraulic clutch kit, the clutch assembly, flywheel, bellhousing, and shifter.

The kit also comes with a driveshaft made to fit. Once the transmission is installed, you measure for length and they build and ship a driveshaft to you. Mine was a 3.5" steel shaft.

They seemed to be pretty easy to work with, so I would call them and tell them what you have and what you're trying to do.
 

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Hello,

Here are a couple of photos.

In the first photo, the shifter comes through the stock opening. The shifter assembly can be bolted to the transmission in a couple of places (the 4-bolt cover on the transmission itself). Mine is in the front-most location. Within that, the shifter mechanism can be attached at the base in one of four positions (the mount has a plus-sign shape to it). The shifter handle bolts to the mechanism with the same mount, so you can have a lot of flexibility in where the shifter comes through the floor, and where the shifter is positioned within the opening.

334601



Here's a photo of the G-Force crossmember. I did not have the transmission mount shimmed yet, so it's sitting pretty low. There's a lot of room to adjust it, and room for exhaust. It's pretty heavy, though. I haven't seen the Holley crossmember.

Even though the T56 is pretty big, I didn't have to modify the transmission tunnel any for it to fit.
334604
 

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LS1 powa!
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I am planning to T56 swap mine this winter. I have everything basically for the swap figured out except the clutch master. I currently have a Tick Fbody master kit that I'd like to use (sans bracket), so its basically just a Tilton master.
 

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I've got a 2000 2dr that was originally NV3500 as well.

Swapped in the T56 with the 5.3 when I went that route.

3.73 rear gears and I get about 20mpg average. Around town is like 15-18, highway 21-23.

TLDR Parts List:
  • LS1 T56 - Added Clutch Inspection hole to bellhousing
  • LS1/6 Factory Replacement Clutch Kit
  • LS1 Fidanza Light Weight Flywheel
  • T56 Pilot Bushing
  • Fabricated Transmission Crossmember
  • Relocated Shifter Hole for rear T56 shifter position
  • T56 Slave Cylinder (Same exact part as NV3500/1500)
  • 94-97 Ram Master Cylinder - I had some shifting issues I attributed to the S10 master and some research supported that. The S10 master did "work" though. See below for the details.
  • Remote Clutch Bleeder - I put together the parts for my own, but there are kits - highly recommended
  • Shortened Driveshaft
  • Pro 5.0 Shifter w/Hurst handle and adapted knob
  • NV3500 Shfiter Foam
  • 4th Gen Camaro Rubber Floor Shift Boot


The transmission itself is pretty straightforward. I made my own cross member as I had also made my own engine mounts to lower the engine as much as possible with the extra height in the Blazer frame.





The shifter hole had to be moved back several inches. I had a scrap automatic cab that I cut the filler piece out of and cut the new shape to the original NV3500 shifter foam. I used a rubber interior boot from a 4th Gen Camaro. It has a rubber coated flange that protrudes downward through the shifter hole on the Camaro and if I were to do it again I'd cut to that shape instead, but keep the shifter foam for additional sealing/noise reduction.







I found the pro 5.0 shifter well worth the money, but the stock Camaro shifter I had was pretty sloppy. I used the Hurst shifter handle from my NV3500 short throw shifter and it put the handle in a great spot for me, but finding Shift knobs that fit the Hurst thread pattern that aren't Hurst knobs was next to impossible. I wanted something different and eventually rigged up a billet knob meant for a Mustang.



I went with a stock replacement LS1/6 Clutch and Fidenza lightweight flywheel. Total weight of clutch/pressure plate/flywheel is around 37 lbs and I'm a fan. I had an 04 CTS-V w/lightweight flywheel before, so was already used to the slight difference in clutch operation. There are a many clutch options out there, so definitely shop around. I made my buying decision primarily on the timeframe I had, but price, weight, and capacity played in too. The better package, at the time, would have been the LS7 Monster Clutch equivalent with the lightweight flywheel, but I wanted to order parts from Summit to cut down on delivery time.

The other possible advantage going away from the stock clutch is the stockers are self adjusting and the aftermarket goes away from that. I had some issues with it when I made changes to the hydraulic system and believe some of the synchro wear I have now was from the self adjuster adjusting too far even before the hydraulic changes.

The NV3500 & 1500 both use the same slave cylinder as the LS1 Camaro T56 and in theory should work well with the S10 hydraulics, but I did some research into the sizing and the S10 master displaces less fluid than the Camaro. On top of that myself and 2 of my friends with Manual Blazers have had the issue of needing to smash the clutch pedal into the floor just to get it to start (and 2 of those with stock NV3500) and for me sometimes to shift without grinding.



With some further googling and a few trips to the junkyard I discovered that the 94-97 Ram uses the same style firewall attachment as the S10, but can displace more fluid with its larger bore. This does make for a quicker/faster release, but like the lightweight flywheel I adapted to it quickly.

Not wanting to overtravel the slave cylinder (as I did this once on the stock master while bleeding the system) and also wanting to improve the start switch I did some more junkyard diving and came up with the Clutch Start switch from a 2000 era Grand Am. I originally used a C4 Corvette switch and tried to fabricate my own clutch stop, but once I found the GA I fell in love with the switch/stop combo it has and it all adapted far easier to the S10 pedal set than the C4.



The pedal box had to be clearanced a bit and I had to make a small spacer, so that the whole assembly laid flat - which is only barely seen in the picture. You can also see the Angle Iron I welded to the clutch pedal to activate the switch and contact the stop.





I fine tuned the pedal stop location with a shim. Could be adjusted the other way by grinding down the stop if the pedal position isn't right. I wanted it out of the carpet for one and it's been nice having a closer pedal throw.



I also made the Clutch Push Rod adjustable with a heim joint at the end. With a fixed stop this allows me to adjust the clearance of the clutch when disengaged. I lopped off the eye at the end of the pushrod and turned the rod down to fit the heim joint I found. With pro-touring S10 down I don't have the exact specs for the heim I used, but it wasn't too hard to measure and determine what thread size and choose a heim from that spec. If you don't have a lathe or mill handy any decent machine shop should be able to do this without much fuss. Probably a 30 minute job with a lathe if that.

I cut out the original mounting stud from the clutch pedal and welded in a flange head bolt from my collection of S10 fasteners to allow the heim to articulate - it wouldn't have much bolted straight to the pedal.





As an added bonus the stock clutch switch snaps right onto the Ram push rod and the cruise disengage switch works perfectly as is.



To measure the clutch disengagement I added an access hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. I made it just big enough to see what I was doing with the feeler guages.









This may seem like a ton of work - and I spent even more time going down other avenues - but this was very worth my time. The pedal is exactly where I want it, the start switch engages reliably without having to smash the pedal into the floor or reach up under the dash to hand activate the switch, I know I'm not going to overtravel, and any clutch changes I make in the future can be dialed in without much fuss.
 

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Before I forget again... the wiring integrates with the Gen III PCM without any issues. I have all the original T56 solenoids and sensors wired up and working; VSS, Reverse Lockout, I could even turn on the Skip Shift if I wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
What did you do about the reverse lockout? Just ground one wire and run the other to the clutch switch? Do you have to remove the dash to change the slave out? Is the grand am switch a must? I already push mine down all the way to shift. If it is a must can that be done with the dash in place? I figured you'd be getting much better gas mileage than that especially with 3.73's, I was going to go with 4.10's. Do you have a lot done to the engine?
 

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Reverse lockout is wired into the PCM as it would be on an LS1 Camaro. I segment swapped the transmission part of the tune with a 1G CTS-V to get the T56 parameters setup correctly, so the reverse lockout has the same settings as that car. I did have it wired incorrectly at first, so I do know it isn't so bad to overcome the solenoid haha

Side note: for whatever reason the gear tables for cruise control on the V segment were way off, so I copied those tables from the 06 Z06 I got my transmission from.


Are you asking about dash removal for the Master? That can be swapped without pulling the dash. It twists into the firewall and the end of the push rod snaps onto the pedal arm.


I ran the larger master without modifying anything under the dash at first. The clutch position switch snaps onto the push rod and operates like it should... kinda. The pedal position is a bit weird and I was often having to reach up under the dash to activate start switch by hand because of that.


The dash will have to come out to do the Grand Am switch. I modified the pedal mount as well as the pedal, which can't be removed in one piece with the dash in the truck. The dash isn't so bad to remove. I can pull it in under 20-30 minutes and think any competent wrench could do it under an hour taking their time. @BravadaX has written up several good how-tos around here for the dash:
https://www.s10forum.com/threads/99...that-passenger-side-rain-water-repair.826834/
Most challenging part is wrestling the dash out of the truck. That helps to have another person, but I've done it too many times to count on my own.


It may be worth trying the stock S10 master and see how it works for you. I put about 11k on mine like that, but was never completely happy with it. Having done it once and with a working parts list I could knock out the mods to run the larger master over a weekend, now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay thanks man. That helps. Back on gas mileage, do you have a build thread? I couldn’t find one. I’ve heard stock 5.3’s with a t56 and 4.10’s get in the upper 20’s. I have a ls1 stage 2 cam done to mine and that’s all. I average 18mpg.
 

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I had a build thread on pro-tourings10.com, but it's down at the moment. It might be back up in the next few weeks, but no guarantee on that. Most info I have on S10forum is here: https://www.s10forum.com/threads/pro-touring-blazer.831049/

http://www.fuelly.com/car/chevrolet/blazer/2000/harzley/42247 if you want to look closer at my fuel economy.

I occasionally hit 23mpg on the highway, but I know how much fun I'm having anytime I drive the truck, so maybe there's more in it. High 20's with 4.10s seems pretty far fetched to me, though. Vettes are running a 3.42 rear ratio and they're cars pulling high 20's on the highway with these engines and transmissions.

Another factor to consider is I'm on 25.5" tires.
 

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So for a stock clutch master, there should be no issues with the clutch safety switch? I have a Tilton master that I'd like to use, but I haven't dug into how to mount it or even what i'm working with under the dash.
 

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With the stock master the Clutch Safety Switch will work as it did from the factory, which from my experience was workable, but not great. Myself and 2 of my friends all I had difficulty depressing the clutch far enough to start each of our trucks. The other 2 guys, independently, cut away some of their carpet to make it work. The more I dug into it the more I wanted to do something different and improve the setup.

Not sure what the Tilton has for a switch or how much it can be adjusted, but it may not have the issue. Are you starting with an automatic truck? They won't have the factory hole in the firewall for the clutch master, so you may not have to worry about adapting the oddball clutch master mount the S10 has and have quite a bit more freedom in getting the master setup to work well.

I think you want at least a 3/4" bore with a 1.5" stroke for the master. That's the Camaro specs. The Ram master I'm running is a 7/8" bore and probably has around a 1.25" stroke. It pushes more volume overall, so that's why I wanted to make sure I limited it.
 

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Interesting, so the clutch safety switch is just actuated by the clutch pedal rod? I can't see why that wouldn't work with an aftermarket clutch rod. Yea, It's an auto truck right now, so I have freedom to modify the firewall to suit my needs (kinda nice actually). The Tilton I have is actually part of the Tick F-body master cyl kit, so I can just disregard the bracket it came with.
 

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It clips onto the master pushrod. It's not built in, per say, but is part of the assembly. That does make it hard to adjust or adapt to something new.

It basically has a switch at both ends of the travel. At the top if you just tip into the clutch it breaks the cruise circuit and at the bottom if you depress the pushrod all the way it opens the starter circuit.

 
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