That new "Q" oil, VALVOLINE syntec, mobil 1, royal purple.....I throw em all in both my wife and I's cars.....our cars both take half quarts so sometimes I throw the half quarts together and make a weird blend and run it...never had a problem with either car, her car is at 30,000 and mine is almost at 60,000.....bought them both with low miles....
I don't understand why so many people with non performance engines choose to use synthetics and still change it every 3000 miles. Most conventional oils today have detergents and do just as a good job on a normal engines as synthetic while on a normal change routine.
Sure synthetic is better, but its really not nessecery on a 4.3 in an s10. And its probably not going to reduce wear or extend the life of the engine any more than a conventional oil (on a normal change interval).
Some people might even see the ad that switching oils will improve gas mileage, get it in their head and actually drive better sub-consiously thus improving mileage or whatever. But hey thats just me, I also put a $10 dollar bill in with my conventional oil when I do my change.
Look, too all the doubters out there. SYNTHETIC IS BETTER. Period. Stop trying to bash it because its more expensive and you think your 300,000 mile engine on dyno oil runs fine. Well thats great good for you. Its not that hard if you change the shit. My cousin is running a 500,000KM chevy silverado that has never seen oil any better than Wal-Mart brand. Big deal. He drives like a retard too I have never seen anyone go through so much gas. Its his daily commuter to his job site where he is a Mason and hauls bricks and cement all day.
Look, It lasts longer, infact it would NEVER need replacing if it could stay free from contaminates like gas, moisture and carbon deposits. In europe they frequently run oil 20,000kms or more because they have better oil filtration. Opel will (or has already) release a car that does not need to have its hood opened for 100,000KMS. The oil is treated in a miny oil treatment center that removes contaminates in the oil including water and gas. It lubricates better with a higher film strength and a lower co efficient of friction, this is why parts last longer and people see more power at the wheels and better milage. It stands up to heat better, up to 380* for synthetic. Mineral oil is toast after 290*. You might not think this matters because your engine is usually at 215* F but for people who tow and load up the engine for a long time remember that your operating temps will rise also remember the fact that the rod bearings are about 30*F hotter than any other place you would measure oil temps.
Every racing team uses synthetic oil. It has been around since the 70's. However, some people still wont change. But this is the same thing that happened when mineral oil began to replace bean oil in racing. Mineral oil companies actually had to give engines to teams in order to convince them to use mineral oil. But once the obvious advantages were displayed the change was swift. Yet some racers still hung on to bean oil for 20 more years. Now you wont find it anywhere.
If you buy Synthetic oil even at its higher initial cost and use it in your own vehicle you will save money. Extend your oil change to at least 5000miles (7000km) you can even go longer depending on how contaminated the oil is after that period. You should also see an improvement in milage. Like I said I see 60 more KM per tank. I saw it on my first tank after the switch and I still see it ever time I fill up. Your engine, in theory, should last longer but no one can gurentee this. Some people do un explained things to their cars so thats more in the users hands.
If you think mineral based synthetic like Mobil 1, castrol Syntec, Qstate synthetic , pennzoil synthetic, vavolive synthetics are good you need to try a REAL, group IV-V synthetic like Amsoil, Redline or Royal Purple.
A true Synthetic that contains no mineral oil or by products will greatly out last any mineral based synthetic let alone conventional mineral oil, not to mention improve performance/HP, reduce temps and friction wear, and increase MPG Even more then a mineral based synthetic like Mobil 1 or syntec
It will also save you hundreds of dollars over a few years compared to using conventional oil.
for instance (cnd prices)
I've put 100,000 km on my truck in 3 years
I change the Amsoil (0W-30) every 6 months. Once in the fall before snow, once in the spring after the snow is gone.
That's 6 oil changes over 3 years
Dealer recommends oil change every 5000km that's 20 oil changes.
It costs me aprox $60 per oil change using Amsoil.
$60 x 6 oil changes = $360 using Amsoil for 3 years
A dealership charges $25 for cheap Sewer trout shell oil
$25 x 20 oil changes = $500
I've saved nearly $150 in oil changes alone buy using a much better oil.
But wait... Amsoil recommend oil changes evey 35,000miles or once a year for the oil I use so that would be only 3 oil changes if I really wanted to. Thats only 3 oil changes in 3 years at a total cost of $180
A savings of $320....
Also you don't need to worry about using Amsoil with a new car either just because the dealer says it has to be changed every so often.
All you need is proof he oil was changed, a sales receipt to show you bought oil and filter is enough. What you can do is at the recommended oil change time (3000-5000miles) go buy 4 liters of oil and a filter, then copy the recipt, then take the unopened oil and filter back to the store.
I've done this with all my cars abd bikes.
Even if you change your own oil and by the cheapest crap out there at $15 x 20 your still spending $300 over 3 years.
Most good quality mineral oils cost $3 a bottle x 5L + filter your looking at $20 to change your own oil. That's still $400 for 3 years
For most people it costs less and is cheaper overall to have the dealer do it for $19.95 then doing it themselves. Most shops or dumps charge upto $5 enviornmental fee for re-cycling used oil.
Since I change my Amsoil every 6 months (long before it's due) I keep my used Amsoil and re-use it for my fathers tractors and trucks which run by pass systems. Lab results have show the oil is still in perfect condition after 100,000km
Also keep in mind this is retail prices, if you are a prefered customer, wholesaler or dealer you can get your Amsoil a much greater discounts and save WAY more.
FWIW i've run Amsoil in my Honda VLX since new (400km) and now with nearly 100,000km the engine compression is still perfect, does not use a drop of oil, cam chain adjusters are still nearly bottomed out, never had a clutch issue even hard 4000rpm launches at the drag track and long smokey burn outs and hours and hours of WOT riding. Hell even though i check them once a year my valves have never needed adjustment.
I hate these treads because I am an inspector and I deal with every type of nateral and synthetic oil,mineral, and chemical known to man.
working in a lab testing these oils I can tell you this don't use mobil products or any thing that uses mobil stock like royal purple.