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Swapping? Heres A List Of Parts And Answered Questions!

720980 Views 891 Replies 553 Participants Last post by  Rhotpursuit
Ok Boys and Girls, I know a lot of you have questions on doing a swap out of your poor 4 bangers or mere 4.3s to run with the pride of having a V8. First Id like to Say, YES, it can be done. Here is some Common known engines that will fit.

305
327
350
400

Now I know you can bore out and everything, but anything it that range will fit with no modification to the firewall. 427s and 454s, CAN be done, but involves more serious firewall work, and is only recommended if you’re really into it. Keep in mind; ANYTHING is possible with Time, Money, and a Welder ;)

-----------------------------2.2 L EFI>>>>>> 350 V8 EFI------------------
Now Ill start off with you 2.2 guys, since your struggling for power the most. First of all, the swap of a 2.2 requires a lot of time and patience. To make this easier, I’m doing a fuel-injected engine to a fuel-injected engine. Meaning there’s no need for gas tank modifications. If you go from carbureted to EFI, or vice versa then you need a new Gas tank unit for the appropriate method.

Ok, now lets start.

THESE PARTS *NEED* TO BE REMOVED-

Engine
Tranny
Radiator
Harness
Computer

THESE PARTS STAY-

Master Brake cylinder
AC/Heater boxes

THESE PARTS WILL BE *NEEDED* -

350 Engine (COMPLETE - IE Alternator, Intake, Fuel Injection unit, ect)
Engine mount adaptors (See links at bottom of thread)
Headers (See links at bottom of thread)
Tranny
Computer
Harness
Radiator
Electric FANS

*** Note, when buying parts, keep in mind what engine you have ect, make sure that your harness will work with the engine, the computer is for a Standard/Auto tranny ECT. Make sure everything’s right B4 you dig in****

PARTS THAT CAN BE USED FROM A 2.2, BUT RECOMMEND REPLACING -

Coolant over flow tank
Washer fluid tank
Drive shaft (will need to be modified if you keep it)
Rear End

Ok. That’s the gist of it. Like I said, there’s A LOT of work involved in it for a 2.2>350. If you have it hired out, expect an easy $3k labor bill, On top of the parts costs.

(Remember you can always ebay that 2.2 and parts as well to make a little income back, some people like all Show no go ;))

INSTALLING -

If you’re doing it yourself, get a manual from the links at the bottom of the page, and read up. Common engine knowledge helps, (IE what’s where for what purpose) oh yeah, and you need to be able to turn a ratchet :D. Basically, Run the Harness and computer first. It will go in the same way the old one came out. Your probably going to have to have a custom harness made for some things like gauges and stuff. The Manual at the bottom will tell you all about that. But once the harness is run and installed with the Computer, then you should mount the tranny. This is where the drive shaft modification comes in, depending on what tranny you got, it will prob. have to be shortened. I recommend a new drive shaft, even though the old one IS possible, for a couple of reasons. A) I new one will be stronger, and will fit properly. B) It will save you time of replacing the old one down the road if it does break. You have a 350 now, so your going to want to go fast, that skinny pipe isn’t going to hold up to too much. Once the tranny is in, drop in the big bad 350. A lot of people ask about front spring suspension, I went from 4.3 > 350 with no change in height, 2.2 springs maybe weaker (but at least it will look lower;)) But once the engine is in, plug it all in, Run coolant lines, ect. And put the new Corvette Radiator in, or whatever new radiator you got for the v8 application. May need some custom mountings, but nothing too bad. And then, hook up your electric fans. I HIGHLY recommend dual 14" fans in FRONT of the core support. Mine work WONDERS and with just a little back notching of a plastic easy to get at grill instead of messing with the firewall to get one between the Radiator/engine. Now except for a few odds /n ends, that will pretty much cover it.

---------------------------4.3 TBI to 350 TBI----------------------------------

To make this easier, I’m doing a fuel-injected engine to a fuel-injected engine. Meaning there’s no need for gas tank modifications. If you go from carbureted to EFI, or vice versa then you need a new Gas tank unit for the appropriate method.

Your job is A LOT simpler in most cases. But don’t let that fool you, its still a chore to do.

If you have a 4.3EFI from 87-93 TBI, if you get a V8 from that same time frame that’s TBI, you have little or no wiring issues, everything that plugs into the 4.3, will plug into the 350. When we did mine, we used everything from the 4.3 on the 350, including Throttle Body, Power steering, Water pump, Harness, and computer. But if you have a vortec, and are switching out, you need to pull harness and computer, and you need a complete 350, as most parts wont transfer. So with that in mind, here are the parts lists -

THESE PARTS *NEED* TO BE REMOVED-

Engine.
(If 94+ vortec to any other 350, Harness and Computer)

THESE PARTS STAY-

Master Brake cylinder
AC/Heater boxes
Tranny
Drive train
Radiator (pull it to remove/install the engines though)

PARTS that will be *NEEDED* -

Engine
Engine mounts (See links at bottom of thread)
Headers (See links at bottom of thread)
Electric fans
Harness and computer (if 94+ swap)
***NOTE, when purchasing harness/computer or having a harness made, make SURE it’s for the proper Tranny and dash setup!!! Hate to plug it in, and not have it work!!! ****

Basically, its the same install path as the 2.2, get your harness in, and computer, install the new engine mounts, then drop the engine in, plug it in, Install headers. Put rad. Back in. once again, I recommend the fans in front of the Core support. Get in and test it out. ect.

****For Both Installations- if you want the fan in FRONT of the V8, and behind the core support, you need to shorten the drive shaft, scoot the tranny back, pound some room on the firewall for engine tabs, and Distributor Clearance, and slide it all back on the Engine mount adaptors. Keep in mind, that’s makes extremely hard to do menial tasks/tune ups, such as Replace Spark plugs, install new Wires, and Run exhaust. ****

Now this was just a ROUGH sketch of a swap, and it answers most questions, with a few recommendations, here are the links for the manuals, and parts -

JTR - lots of people use these guys

Advance adaptors, will have all your answers here too

Any MORE questions, post them in here, We'll be glad to help, plus this will clear out the clutter in the V8 forum, about everyone asking about swaps :D

Thanks guys, and many happy cylinders!
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Why don't people just go straight carb setup instead of fuel injection and just skip all the harness headache?:grin:
One reason is that switching from FI to carb on most 2nd gen s-series creates more headaches than it cures. Especially 98 up. Nearly everything passes through the PCM, BCM or both. If you eliminate them you basically need to re-wire the front 90% of the truck. Starting with a complete new dash and instruments.
I am sure you are correct, but I prefer carburated fuel systems and point & condenser ignition systems.

Mule
Why stop half way. Hitch a team of horses to the front bumper.
I'm the same age you are and started tinkering with cars around 1959. Got my first job with a GM dealership when I got home in 1968. So I understand where you are coming from. But having worked for dealerships through 1999 I also went through the transition as the vehicles did.
I try to be as pro computer as possible on here because most of the "kids" coming along now have probably never seen points or even know what "dwell" is. Bought an Oliver 1755 a couple years ago from a 40 year old who couldn't get it to run worth a darn for $600. Going rate for those tractors around here is close to 10 times that. When I got it home I took off the cap. "Eyeballed" the points and it's run great ever since.
The knowledge you have is priceless, but stepping out of your comfort zone to learn a bit about electronic ignition and ECU's has it's advantages, also. If you can read a wiring diagram, you can fix a computer controlled engine. It's still one wire at a time. A good used interactive scanner like a Tech2 or Snap On Solus can be had in the $300 range and are easy to learn. Both are pretty much self teaching. For a young man starting out today they are a must have. Just like the Old Sun oscilloscopes were in 68.
What we see a lot of on here is young guys wanting to put a carb on 2001 trucks. Not realizing those have completely integrated electrical systems and you can't just remove the "brain" and expect it to work. Would be like doing a human heart transplant and removing the brain to simplify the task. What you have when you're done is a thing that has a new heart, but dead.

I was trying to exaggerate the obvious to the majority of readers, at your expense, for which I sincerely apologize.
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I wasn't at the Pontiac dealer very long myself. Went to the shop foreman with a number of complaints about procedures in how the shop was run that was costing all the mechanics a lot of wasted time. When you're working book rate, time is money. I think some of the procedures were implemented to slow us down when the foreman found out a couple of us were making more than he was some weeks.
They were also afraid I might be from a union according to one of the girls in the front office.
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