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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok Boys and Girls, I know a lot of you have questions on doing a swap out of your poor 4 bangers or mere 4.3s to run with the pride of having a V8. First Id like to Say, YES, it can be done. Here is some Common known engines that will fit.

305
327
350
400

Now I know you can bore out and everything, but anything it that range will fit with no modification to the firewall. 427s and 454s, CAN be done, but involves more serious firewall work, and is only recommended if you’re really into it. Keep in mind; ANYTHING is possible with Time, Money, and a Welder ;)

-----------------------------2.2 L EFI>>>>>> 350 V8 EFI------------------
Now Ill start off with you 2.2 guys, since your struggling for power the most. First of all, the swap of a 2.2 requires a lot of time and patience. To make this easier, I’m doing a fuel-injected engine to a fuel-injected engine. Meaning there’s no need for gas tank modifications. If you go from carbureted to EFI, or vice versa then you need a new Gas tank unit for the appropriate method.

Ok, now lets start.

THESE PARTS *NEED* TO BE REMOVED-

Engine
Tranny
Radiator
Harness
Computer

THESE PARTS STAY-

Master Brake cylinder
AC/Heater boxes

THESE PARTS WILL BE *NEEDED* -

350 Engine (COMPLETE - IE Alternator, Intake, Fuel Injection unit, ect)
Engine mount adaptors (See links at bottom of thread)
Headers (See links at bottom of thread)
Tranny
Computer
Harness
Radiator
Electric FANS

*** Note, when buying parts, keep in mind what engine you have ect, make sure that your harness will work with the engine, the computer is for a Standard/Auto tranny ECT. Make sure everything’s right B4 you dig in****

PARTS THAT CAN BE USED FROM A 2.2, BUT RECOMMEND REPLACING -

Coolant over flow tank
Washer fluid tank
Drive shaft (will need to be modified if you keep it)
Rear End

Ok. That’s the gist of it. Like I said, there’s A LOT of work involved in it for a 2.2>350. If you have it hired out, expect an easy $3k labor bill, On top of the parts costs.

(Remember you can always ebay that 2.2 and parts as well to make a little income back, some people like all Show no go ;))

INSTALLING -

If you’re doing it yourself, get a manual from the links at the bottom of the page, and read up. Common engine knowledge helps, (IE what’s where for what purpose) oh yeah, and you need to be able to turn a ratchet :D. Basically, Run the Harness and computer first. It will go in the same way the old one came out. Your probably going to have to have a custom harness made for some things like gauges and stuff. The Manual at the bottom will tell you all about that. But once the harness is run and installed with the Computer, then you should mount the tranny. This is where the drive shaft modification comes in, depending on what tranny you got, it will prob. have to be shortened. I recommend a new drive shaft, even though the old one IS possible, for a couple of reasons. A) I new one will be stronger, and will fit properly. B) It will save you time of replacing the old one down the road if it does break. You have a 350 now, so your going to want to go fast, that skinny pipe isn’t going to hold up to too much. Once the tranny is in, drop in the big bad 350. A lot of people ask about front spring suspension, I went from 4.3 > 350 with no change in height, 2.2 springs maybe weaker (but at least it will look lower;)) But once the engine is in, plug it all in, Run coolant lines, ect. And put the new Corvette Radiator in, or whatever new radiator you got for the v8 application. May need some custom mountings, but nothing too bad. And then, hook up your electric fans. I HIGHLY recommend dual 14" fans in FRONT of the core support. Mine work WONDERS and with just a little back notching of a plastic easy to get at grill instead of messing with the firewall to get one between the Radiator/engine. Now except for a few odds /n ends, that will pretty much cover it.

---------------------------4.3 TBI to 350 TBI----------------------------------

To make this easier, I’m doing a fuel-injected engine to a fuel-injected engine. Meaning there’s no need for gas tank modifications. If you go from carbureted to EFI, or vice versa then you need a new Gas tank unit for the appropriate method.

Your job is A LOT simpler in most cases. But don’t let that fool you, its still a chore to do.

If you have a 4.3EFI from 87-93 TBI, if you get a V8 from that same time frame that’s TBI, you have little or no wiring issues, everything that plugs into the 4.3, will plug into the 350. When we did mine, we used everything from the 4.3 on the 350, including Throttle Body, Power steering, Water pump, Harness, and computer. But if you have a vortec, and are switching out, you need to pull harness and computer, and you need a complete 350, as most parts wont transfer. So with that in mind, here are the parts lists -

THESE PARTS *NEED* TO BE REMOVED-

Engine.
(If 94+ vortec to any other 350, Harness and Computer)

THESE PARTS STAY-

Master Brake cylinder
AC/Heater boxes
Tranny
Drive train
Radiator (pull it to remove/install the engines though)

PARTS that will be *NEEDED* -

Engine
Engine mounts (See links at bottom of thread)
Headers (See links at bottom of thread)
Electric fans
Harness and computer (if 94+ swap)
***NOTE, when purchasing harness/computer or having a harness made, make SURE it’s for the proper Tranny and dash setup!!! Hate to plug it in, and not have it work!!! ****

Basically, its the same install path as the 2.2, get your harness in, and computer, install the new engine mounts, then drop the engine in, plug it in, Install headers. Put rad. Back in. once again, I recommend the fans in front of the Core support. Get in and test it out. ect.

****For Both Installations- if you want the fan in FRONT of the V8, and behind the core support, you need to shorten the drive shaft, scoot the tranny back, pound some room on the firewall for engine tabs, and Distributor Clearance, and slide it all back on the Engine mount adaptors. Keep in mind, that’s makes extremely hard to do menial tasks/tune ups, such as Replace Spark plugs, install new Wires, and Run exhaust. ****

Now this was just a ROUGH sketch of a swap, and it answers most questions, with a few recommendations, here are the links for the manuals, and parts -

JTR - lots of people use these guys

Advance adaptors, will have all your answers here too

Any MORE questions, post them in here, We'll be glad to help, plus this will clear out the clutter in the V8 forum, about everyone asking about swaps :D

Thanks guys, and many happy cylinders!
 
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If your using the computer off your old 4.3 non vortec to put on the new 350 isnt it going to make your engine run lean? I thought you had to get the computer and all that stuff that was made for the 350 to make it run at the right mixture? Could be way off on this one, im new to working on Chevys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, it might run lean, but it will Run, You can also have that tuneded, and Upped, I believe. This was just a general to help answer a lot of common questions I see.
 
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My dad and I plan on getting my 350 in my truck this winter! I hope, or i'ma die!! I get tired of ****ing waiting, considering i've already got the engine and all! just need motor mounts, headers and ****.. which comes from Christmas money!! :D -Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CONGRATS!
 

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what about new vortec engines (V8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
same thing applies, New Computer and harness if swaping one in
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
New harness and Computer
 

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do stock exhaust manifolds fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
In most cases, No, I highly reccomend headers for a decent fit, and better Access to Spark plugs. With the headers, the steering shaft goes between 2 loops in the drivers side header, and Im pretty sure if they were manifolds, it would not fit, or rup horribly
 
G

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Im sure it depends, not everyones cost is going to be the same. Look around for an engine and trans and add that cost together. Then you go and add the cost of the headers and mounts and you add that total to the previous one. Whatever ammount that comes out to be just know your probably not anywhere near what you are going to actually spend. Good rule of thumb is to figuire out a price and then double it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
^^^^ What he said, lol, Thats a good answer. And thats why I posted, I wanna help out as many people as possible., and when people can exchange info thats cool :) if It gets cluttered, Ill just repost it so then they can put it in the archives :/
 

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COST?? I am in the middle of my 2.8 to 305 conversion and have already invested about two grand. And I am not done yet... The engine is done and sitting on the stand, have aquired a clutch kit, bellhousing, exhaust (camero exhaust will work, you have to modify the firewall a little on passenger side by heater box, and shave a little on the drivers side and remove the plastic on the stearing shaft for clearance), i am stuck looking for an applicable oil pan, need a deep sump...wondering if moroso deep sump will fit????? have 4x4 and need to clear front axle assembly, looking for thread in slave cylander that will work with clutch fork and bellhousing instead of roll pin. Moving radiator into core support, need short (about 16 inch tall) radiator, to maintain normal fan, have downgraded wiring to basics (any comments..suggestions?), and soon to be adding a holley red fuel regulator (bout 70 to 90 bucks) Am open to any comments and criticism......
 

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Quick question on the 2.2 swap

With removing the 2.2's ECM, how much of the electronics controlled by the body control module will still work? (dash electronics, etc.) Here's what the BCM controls if anyone's interested.

The BCM controls the following functions:


Audible Warnings
Indicator Warnings
Interior Lighting
Exterior Lighting.
Power Door LOCK/UNLOCK
Remote Keyless Entry
Passlock(TM) Theft Deterrent
Content Theft Deterrent
AUDIBLE WARNINGS


Key in ignition reminder
Fasten seat belt reminder
Park brake reminder
Turn signal reminder
Headlamps ON reminder
INDICATOR WARNINGS


Security indicator
Cargo lamp on indicator
Fasten belts indicator
Park brake indicator
High beam indicator
INTERIOR LIGHTING


Interior illumination control
Delayed illumination
Illuminated entry
Exit illumination
Keyless entry unlock illumination
Inadvertent power (battery rundown) protection
POWER DOOR LOCKS


All door unlock
All door lock
Lockout prevention
KEYLESS ENTRY


Remote driver door unlock
Remote all door unlock
Remote all door lock
Remote panic alarm
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well, Thats why u need a special harness made to fit your New ECU to manage all those gadgets and gizzmos fool :D (it says that up Top;) lol
 

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tjwenger said:
well, Thats why u need a special harness made to fit your New ECU to manage all those gadgets and gizzmos fool :D (it says that up Top;) lol
Just because you can plug it in, doesn't mean it's still going to work. The body control module isn't part of the ECU and I have no idea if GM uses the same BCM in all models. That's why I'm asking.

I do know you can program them to do different things such as whether or not you have the theft deterrent system. I'm just wondering how much of what the BCM does is influenced by the computer. They talk to each other via the serial data link. In other words, if I put in a different one, will the BCM flip out?
 
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