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Discussion Starter #1
I've been chasing SES lights for over a year now. Got the light to turn off for about 10 miles after the most recent 02 sensor, but its back on. As of yesterday, I have P0134, P0135, and P0155 codes. Tried about everything I could find from other threads, running out of ideas. You guys got any?

July: new MAF, new OEM O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
December: new cat converter.
January: new OEM 02 sensor (B2S1)
Over the last few months: vacuum leaks repaired, new air filter, multiple throttle body cleans, gas additives (lucas, cataclean, seafoam).
'99 S10 V6 2wd
 

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Been there Done it
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Hopefully you didn't ruin the engine with all that hokus pokus in bottles.
Those codes mean your O2 heaters aren't working. It's either the grounds on the BACK of both cylinder heads, a break in the wiring, or the O2 fuse in the under hood fuse box.
Can't seem to post a pic at the moment. It's located at the right lower corner of the starter relay just right of the center of the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply. I've been waiting to check out what you suggested, because of course the dang SES light turned off shortly after I posted. Soon as it comes back on, I'll check.

- Will
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay. SES light has come on for a couple miles here and there while driving but has mostly been off. Yesterday and today the truck started rough and the SES light is on. Ran the codes this morning and I now have p0102 103 134 135 154 and 155. I was looking on the "back" of the heads for a grounding wire, but I'm not sure where or what I'm looking for. In between the head and the firewall? Ring terminal? Help!

Thanks
 

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If you feel along the flat surface on the back of the head there should be a bolt in each head that secures a couple ring terminals to the head to ground the O2 heaters. On a 99 4.3 there is one on each head for the O2 sensor on that side. See if you feel any wires that aren't hooked to anything. Here's a pic of where the holes are located on 99 and newer heads. You should be able to feel all three or a bolt thru some wire treminals.

337999

Another way to test for ground would be to use an ohm meter from the black wire of the harness side of the connector at the sensor to a ground like the frame. Be sure you are actually touching the metal and not just rust or paint. Since you used OEM sensors they should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you, I will check that out this weekend. As for the 102 103 MAF codes, the last few times I have had this rough start issue, changing the MAF has fixed it. I'm on my 4th MAF in 2 years. Is that electrical too? I'm stuck in a loop.
 

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Rhot beat me to it. Oiled air filters will F*#% up a maf. That's why the general didn't put them on. They usually last the life of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I always get the cheap regular replacement airfilter from Autozone. I don't thiiiiink it's oiled. I think the most current one was an STP brand. Not seeing anything loose or suspect on the grounds. Gonna shop for MAF number five I guess. I can still drive to work, just got to rev it when I start.
 

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94 4x4,01 Blazer
2001 Blazer 4dr 4wd LT
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Before buying another MAF- carefully check the air passage between your filter and the intake- you most likely have a LEAK of some sort,be it just a loose clamp .That many MAF in that short period point to something else causing them to fail. Reaching for the parts cannon quickly can be irratating and expensive as it might NOT be what you think it is.PS_ NEVER TOUCH THE INSIDE OF THE MAF WITH YOUR FINGERS- that will extremely shorten its life.
 
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