[jdmtrsprts2000]

Re: Steering column mounting to firewall

I just swapped cabs for my S10 went to a 1985 cab and used all the wiring harnesses from the 1993 S10 I had swapped the cab on, getting to the steering column I found that the mounting on the ends of the column are differant, do I need to disassemble both shafts to swap out the end tubes to fix the misallaingment or does some one have an easier way to do it? Im sure someone else has come up with this same situation before, any help would be appreciated thanx,

I found out that 1982 thru 1990 the lower mounting bracket to the firewall are the same but from 1991 up they are differant so if you change cabs like I did beaware of this so you get the right columns for your cab

 

[bg's]

Wheel bearing service tips from Babco.
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/38769/wheel_bearing_service_tips.aspx

Wheel Bearing Adjustment
A wheel bearing out of adjustment can reduce bearing life and can affect more than just the bearing. It affects the operation and service life of the spindle, wheel seal and brake components. It is important to adjust the wheel bearing end play to the proper specifications. If the bearing set is adjusted too loose or too tight, it can cause the bearing to fail prematurely. In fact, a recent survey showed that more than half of the bearings on the road today are adjusted incorrectly.

Bearing adjustment did not become critical to braking performance until the introduction of disc brakes. The caliper is mounted directly to the steering knuckle. If there was too much end play, it would cause piston knock back in the caliper, resulting is in excessive pedal travel. The use of direct mount of the caliper is returning to use on high-performance vehicles.

The following procedure is one method for adjusting the end play of a wheel bearing set. Tighten the adjusting nut while turning the rotor or drum. When the effort to turn the rotor or drum increases, a preload is placed on bearing assembly and all raceway surfaces are in contact, providing no end play. Back off the nut one flat to allow insertion of the cotter key. The end play can be checked with a dial indicator. Mount the indicator with a magnetic or mechanical base as close to the center of the hub as possible. The indicator tip is set on a smooth surface at the end of the spindle. Push the rotor back and set the indicator to zero. Then pull the rotor or drum out and read the dial indicator. Allow 0.004 inch (0.100mm) ± 0.003 inch (0.076 mm) end play. Then lock the nut with a new cotter pin. Whether you are checking a conventional wheel bearing or hub bearing, the best tool for checking adjustment is a dial indicator.

Many four-wheel-drive vehicles and most trucks with a load rating of one ton and higher, use a full floating axle. The axle has a bearing set, spindle and hub. The same adjustment procedure can be used for these applications.

 

[bigdaddykane93]

can you fix the shock talk link please?

 

[chadfrank1983]

i need some advice. my s10 blazer sport 4x4 is starting to dogtrail an certian speeds. the alignment is ok tires fine ball joints and tie rod ends are sturdy shocks are shot and body has expected rust around the bottom of vehicle ive looked for all signs of wear on every piece i looked at. thought a rotation and balance would help but at timesit still feels like the rear end is pullin me off the roadand is gitting pretty hard to stay in one place in my lane around corners steering response is good. i know new shocks will help but i dont belive they are the main cause. maybe sway bar?????? it looks normal to me butnever messed with sway bars or torsion rods. when i do replace the shocks i want to do a full makeover to the suspension and need some adviceon this and handleing charictoistics in general also i snapped off a wheel stud when it was freezin and walmart wont touch it untill its fixed even though i paid for lifetime balance ant rotaton on theese tires months ago i dont have a tap and die nor do i know how to attach a threeded wheel stud to the hub. i want to repack the wheel bearings anyway so i think i will replace the whole thing if the price is right. im not sure if it is a single piece hub/roter combo or if the roter comes off seperate from the hub. it looks preety str8 up job but this is the first hub assembly ive put together all the previous cars iowned took a crap before any suspension parts wore out i just dont want to leave out any important steps any advice or guesses about my dogtrailin and whats causing it thanks

 

[bhandarigroup]

Wow great bunch of experts discussing intelligently!! Could somebody tell me how to repair the power steering??

 

[agolash89]

does anyone know the exact position of the torsion bars before they have been cranked? I cranked them up and now I want to drop them back down to factory level but I do not know how many threads or inches the bolts should be hanging down. Someone who has a 2001 zr2 with torsion bars that have never been touched would be very helpful.

 

[bg's]

Not a how to but a link to a place that has been making springs both coil and
leaf for over 70 years. There is a lot of good info avail as well. They have
other attaching parts going and if you have a weird setup you want done,
there's every chance they can handle it plus all are U.S. made. They have
a forum too.

[big deal to me

]

http://www.eatonsprings.com/

 

[bg's]

opps..Yea, I'm a dumbass.

 

[dadmoonbunny]

On the tilt column tightening article, here are two things that will make your life a whole lot easier:

BEFORE you pull ANY wiring harness out of your column, tie a strong string or cord to the bottom end, at the connector. It needs to be more than twice as long as the column, so you can tie it off. Believe me, after doing a number of columns, you DO NOT want to have to manually feed ANY harness back through that tube!

While you are in the column, replace any worn parts. That turn signal cancelling cam is available in the HELP section at most auto parts stores for under ten bucks, and can solve a number of irritations if installed correctly.

Buy and install a new pair of turn signal springs. They are cheap and will make the turn signal arm solid feeling again.

When you go to tighten up the bolts mentioned in the article, take the time to do all four. If you really like your dime, do it right the first time. ANY "mechanic" that says you only need to tighten the two that are easily accessible is also ripping off customers in other areas as well. You don't have to use the reverse star socket for those, as they don't have that much torque on them. A six point socket will do the job as well, but it HAS to be 1/4 inch drive. A Wobble joint or wobble end extension is a GOD send in there.

 

[dadmoonbunny]

Wow great bunch of experts discussing intelligently!! Could somebody tell me how to repair the power steering??

GATES.COM has the parts you'll need, and how-to videos are on you tube.

 

[sb-mike]

Hello everybody, I'm an overseas S10 owner (Italy). Some of you has done a 97-98 tilt column swap into a 91???? Can anyone tell me how to or know who has done this type of work? Thanks

 

[volk67]

Looking to see if a 2nd gen tilt column, will fit in a '91 I just bought? any replies?

 

[oilpower]

Hello everybody.

I Am new here from Directional Control Valve Company. We Provide Custom Word Wide Directional Control Valve service as per client requirement. So if you have any question about Directional Control Valve are welcome.

Thanks.

 

[greencactus3]

dug this up from the past.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f178/how-to-set-your-toe-alignment-at-home-365904/

useful for link at top of sticky?

 

[weekendwheeler]

On the tilt column tightening article, here are two things that will make your life a whole lot easier:

BEFORE you pull ANY wiring harness out of your column, tie a strong string or cord to the bottom end, at the connector. It needs to be more than twice as long as the column, so you can tie it off. Believe me, after doing a number of columns, you DO NOT want to have to manually feed ANY harness back through that tube!

While you are in the column, replace any worn parts. That turn signal cancelling cam is available in the HELP section at most auto parts stores for under ten bucks, and can solve a number of irritations if installed correctly.

Buy and install a new pair of turn signal springs. They are cheap and will make the turn signal arm solid feeling again.

When you go to tighten up the bolts mentioned in the article, take the time to do all four. If you really like your dime, do it right the first time. ANY "mechanic" that says you only need to tighten the two that are easily accessible is also ripping off customers in other areas as well. You don't have to use the reverse star socket for those, as they don't have that much torque on them. A six point socket will do the job as well, but it HAS to be 1/4 inch drive. A Wobble joint or wobble end extension is a GOD send in there.

Ive been having the issue with the turn signal/brake light canceling issue on my '88 dime. I have had the column apart once and came across the issue you mentioned. Sadly it was my daily driver so I couldnt take much time dealing with it. I was throwing ideas around like you mentioned with the string trick to pull the wiring harness back through the tube. surely my question is that the way to do it or is there more that must be removed to get in there? At the same time I need to replace my turn signal switch as the original owner busted the windshield washer piece on the signal switch. If there is any more info you can throw my way on this it would be much appreciated. Also I dont remember exactly what tools I used and since I am not in the same state as my toolbox What specific tools may I need. I have basics which I know will cover most of whats needed and I have the puller for the steering wheel, Any specific sockets, I cant remember.

Thanks

 

[dadmoonbunny]

Ive been having the issue with the turn signal/brake light canceling issue on my '88 dime. I have had the column apart once and came across the issue you mentioned. Sadly it was my daily driver so I couldnt take much time dealing with it. I was throwing ideas around like you mentioned with the string trick to pull the wiring harness back through the tube. surely my question is that the way to do it or is there more that must be removed to get in there? At the same time I need to replace my turn signal switch as the original owner busted the windshield washer piece on the signal switch. If there is any more info you can throw my way on this it would be much appreciated. Also I dont remember exactly what tools I used and since I am not in the same state as my toolbox What specific tools may I need. I have basics which I know will cover most of whats needed and I have the puller for the steering wheel, Any specific sockets, I cant remember.

Thanks

There are tons of little hints and tricks you pick up along the way. For instance, the wiring that controls everything runs together through a flattened plastic channel that slips up into the "sleeve" below the turn signal assembly area. It is secured by sitting on square nuts welded on the side of the column housing.

I started building/rebuilding columns from this article:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf

If you can afford to print it out, with photographs, do so. i FOUND IT INVALUABLE. JAZZMAN actually took the time to cut a steering column open to create a cut-away in several areas so that we can see exactly what goes where. Hint: Vaseline or a dab of bearing grease is your friend when it comes to putting the high/low cam back in place. That thing always fall out of place on me. Of course, almost all of my rebuilds have been done with the column in the vehicle.

 

[weekendwheeler]

So the string trick worked great on running the wires for the column issues. Now thats over something else popped up or I should say gave out. The tilt is now wobbly as all get out and from my searching and reading I may have to replace the nylon bushing for the tilt and while im doing that I may replace the bearing in the tilt just so everything is semi fresh. Any other things you think of that might be good to check out and possibly replace?

Thanks

 

[dadmoonbunny]

Before you go replacing the "nylon" ball/knuckle, check the spring tension. As Jazzman said, that spring maintains the tension in that u joint. That may be the weak link, as it may have lost tension through age and repeated cycling.

When you put it back together, did you lock tite the four bolts on page 14 of the build guide? if they are not torqued with lock tite, they WILL loosen up (eventually) causing looseness in the column. This is the number two or three complaint on these columns, numbers one and two being a toss up between turn signals not holding or self cancelling, and tilt not holding where set.

Just my two cents, if you are going as far as you seem to indicate, you might as well replace both the upper and lower bearings as well.

There is another link on the forum about replacing the rag joint with a mechanical u joint as well. You might consider doing that for a more solid feel.

Of course, all of this is based upon the idea that you have the column out and on the bench for overhaul.

 

[weekendwheeler]

So, here's where I'm sitting now. I have been reading up on the steering box quick ration swap out and also the jeep steering joint swap out. It's something I have been looking into for a minute now. I work offshore in the Gulf of Mexico so time is not something I usually have to do mods and repairs. At this time I do have a bit of time to play with the dime so I am gonna look into another steering column to rebuild without loosing the availability of my dime. Also I'm gonna do the other mods while im in there fixing and updating.

Thanks Badmonbunny for the info. Ill repost when I get this stuff done.

 

[opieszr5]

I am A rookie to the s10's zr2 & zr5.

so please play nice

Hello all,
I have just bought a 2004 zr5 looking to get about 3 inch lift. Not body. I was a jeep man for your so i know a little about crawling and some suspension stuff.
1st. can i put my leafs on the axle instead of the bottom?
2nd. what would you recommend for a bout 3 in in the front?
looking to go with a 31-32 tire but room to flex a little.

Thanks,
opie.