[eshaw]

At least you have a covered area to work in.

 

[Cwhite138]

The reason for the plate on the frame is, as you can see in your picture, its an odd shape right were the shackle mount wants to go on one side. (Pass i think?) the plate gives you a nice mount surface and beefs it up. My truck actually need plated from the rear shackle to the front essentially (i stopped at the steering box), as I cracked the frame.

Your wonky rear shackle means something isn't lined up correctly, wither the mount isn't level or your springs are not straight. All its going to do is wear out the bushing faster as long as something isn't completely out of wack( I looked at yours more and its really crooked). I have been there, a little time now will save you from having to redo it. Sucks doing it again and the bushings are not cheap.

So I'm not sure what you decided but I would advise against the AMC 20. They have week tubes.
I have a bent one right now... with a truss.

I guess it depends on your intended use also.

 

[Dusto]

Yeah eshaw, i do not take the fact that its covered for granted, as i see many posts where the work is in the driveway.
Cwhite, i already ditched the amc 20 a few months ago and picked up a rodeo d44. And i am gonna fix those rear mounts. The being in a covered garage kind of hinders you as fumes build up when welding. That and my 3 yr old little girl likes to help dad in the garage, so i cant weld with her around....yet.

 

[Cwhite138]

Cwhite, i already ditched the amc 20 a few months ago and picked up a rodeo d44.

Good call, I wish i didn't go with the 20 in the first place.. good ring and pinion size. every thing else sucks. thought i was getting a good deal lol

 

[eshaw]

Dusto, if you want to weld without fumes building up in your garage hang a box fan from the ceiling and face it towards the back of the garage. It should help with the fumes without circulating enough air to influence the gas while welding. Worked for me anyways.

 

[Dusto]

Ok, Cwhite, if you are still checking this thread, this weekend, i cut back off my front spring, rear shackle mounts. I took measurements of my springs. I know they are supposed to be 31.5 on center. On the front of the vehicle they are spot on, the rear of the leafs, from center to center they are closer to 32.5 give or take. So this means that the springs arent exactly parallel, more of a wedge shape. And the springs arent too happy if i try to squeeze them down to 31.5 in the rear. Is this something that is supposed to be from the original waggy setup? Either of the springs arent side specific i would think. I just want to have all my ducks in a row when i go weld up the rear mounts again. I do have a few days down time to waiting on new mounts as i cut the old ones up a bit and just feel better ordering new

 

[Dusto]

[IMG alt="Dusto"]https://www.s10forum.com/d1/avatars/m/311/311089.jpg?1580073094[/IMG]
Dusto
Registered
Joined Oct 26, 2015
34 Posts

• a moment ago

Ok, so tonight i used my front hangar as basically a hinge. I measured, pulling from shackle mount bolt to front hangar mount bolt, made them both the same at 43.5". Tacked both shackle mounts on all sides. Now i took a framing square and laid it against the rotor so it was square against the axle assembly. I measured from the frame rail to the edge of the square. My measurement on pass side is 14 3/4, drivers side 13 1/4. So in my mind, i need to pull the rear of the springs to the drivers side 3/4" to make sure this ride drives strait. So, I suppose i am looking for some sort of feedback to tell me, that the original ifs control arms were 3/4" different in length, as i know the frame rails arent exactly the same. But, i think that im going to have to adjust tomorrow. Any input?

 

[Dusto]

Ok, the sas is about roadworthy just, ironing out some last details. These pics are before I trim my fenders. I'm fitting 35s on it, I know those are small for most of ya on here, but a big leap for me. Now I did go to the junkyard today and get me a front output and front driveshaft out of a 99 xj. I can see the length difference now. I miked the caps on the u joints from the stock s10 d.s. and the xj d.s. the caps seem like they would be the same size, except the factor of the retaining clips difference. This would allow me to use the shorter shaft of the s10, add the double cardone for more movement as long as I use the 231j output yoke. Does anyone have input before I start beating on u joints? Oh yeah pics...

 

[Hillbilly Noma]

Both Jeep and s10 use the 1310 ujoint. For the front shaft use the xj shaft and cut it down. Take a grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the weld at the diff side yoke. You'll will only have to cut 1/8 inch deep and you will see where it splits. Once you cut it off knock the yoke off. Measure to see how much you need to take off and cut down the tube. A chop saw is best to use but if you do not have one use a hose clap as a guide and cut with the grinder. Once it's cut down pour a small amount of atf in the tube to balance the shaft and hammer the yoke back on. Make sure you line up the ends so the spin together and don't bind like so ]===[. Also rotate the shaft to make sure the yoke does not wobble. Weld it one in short passes to keep it from deflecting and make sure it's up right so you don't get the atf hot and cause a fire. I have a few drive shafts like this and have no vibration at highway speeds

 

[Dusto]

Ok, so hillbillynoma, would I still need to do this if I went from sua, to soa? Because as I am trimming fenders and seeing where my rub points are, I'm already makin changes lol, I appreciate your input, I thought I was gonna have to take it to a driveline shop, never even thought about those basics

 

[Hillbilly Noma]

All depends on how it falls. I got lucky and a zj shaft fit perfectly but I had different springs and homemade hangers. It's one of those you'll have to see for yourself

 

[Dusto]

Ok man, I thought you might have some insight to the distances on the 1st gens. Most of the knowledge I'm finding is on 2nd gens

 

[Dusto]

Ok, so my build has evolved. I originally just wanted to go sua with some 35s which I still liked, only problem that I didnt like was the clearance from tire to fender. I knew I was gonna rub. And this is after trimming, my inner fenders are against firewall and radiator support. This pic is sua with 44044 springs

 

[Dusto]

So after I didnt like the clearance issue, I did some more digging on here and got ahold of Zombie's thread that used the original waggy springs soa. I really liked this, it was perfect height. Only problem is, from what I can surmise, the springs when turned around backwards became too soft and the shackles laid against the frame. And the spring was flat as can be, almost negative arch.

Ok, so my build has evolved. I originally just wanted to go sua with some 35s which I still liked, only problem that I didnt like was the clearance from tire to fender. I knew I was gonna rub. And this is after trimming, my inner fenders are against firewall and radiator support. This pic is sua with 44044 springs View attachment 343515

 

[Dusto]

So, I am at the point of using the 44044 springs soa. Which now it makes my 35s look small, but that's ok not as much rubbing in my book plus I can go to 37s next set of rubbers. It fixed my shackle problem going with the stiffer springs . But I think I created a problem being my xj driveshaft seems to be at a pretty steep angle down to my Lp d44. Now know where a hp d44 from a 79 f150 with the wedges is sitting right now, but I know that's a lot of work. Plus I have to figure out raising my rear end again to match the front.

 

[Dusto]

So I do have a contact that has helped me a lot from this site so far. I guess I'm just looking for some more feedback on the original waggy springs. They seemed a little too spongy when I would get up on the winch mount and bounce. And as I think about possible 5.3 swap i have to think about added weight. At this current point in time I am flexible as I havent burned the perches to the axle yet. But by next spring this sucker gotta roll.

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Your only looking at about 25lb weight difference between the 5.3 450lbs-4.3 425lbs....

 

[Dusto]

Ok, so I have made it to the point of switching to sliders due to the input of others. I would like to run the original waggy springs because of their flex, but they are too flat and I run into this...

 

[Dusto]

Anyone have any experience running sliders? I do also have the 44044 springs and they work, but they just put the truck higher than I would like it to be

 

[TomA]

I've run sliders on several builds (including my S-10 Blazer), and I've always had to trim that part in the front for spring clearance. It's no big deal.