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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought the S10 with intensions of doing V8 swap. S10 did not come with any drivetrain. I bought drivetrain out of 96 Tahoe with 100K. Reasealed the motor with all new gaskets and water pump. Trans got overhauled with all new parts. Here are some pics. This is my 1st swap of this kind. If any advice, please let me know.









 

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Looking nice. Im looking forward to a vortec 5.7 swap into my current blaze at some point.

I did a square body 5.7 swap & your pics look identical. Looks good so far.

Here are my tips. Turnbuckle style torque strap for the drivers side, keeps the header from coming up & hitting the steering shaft.

BFH the firewall behind the distributor & by the header flanges. Might be different vs the old style but it looks pretty tight in your picture.

use a mini high torque starter or try the starter from a 4.3. you will never get the 350 starter out if it goes bad once its all together with exhaust on.

Get some really fat tires because your going to need them! And if you see a cop you might as well floor it, because he will never catch you.

EDIT: Thinking back, I know i ended up using two different transmissions a TH350 & a TH400... I had to cut the side ears off the bell housing on one of them.. but i cant remember why or which one this many years later. sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya engine is tight fit in there. There is basically no room for anything. I'm getting different I shaft. For now I'm gonna stick with stock wheels but I do have 20's laying around. I wanted to put 8.8 rear in the future and juice it. Its going to be used for house chores. My DD is 08 TL TYPE S with few mods.

Where do I get turnbuckle straps?
 

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I picked mine up at home depot, its just an aluminum turnbuckle with steel threaded eyelet ends. rated for 1,000 lbs of force. like $6 and some bolts, washers & a little ingenuity bending the eyelets to where they need to be.

I mounted mine to a stud on the block & the upper shock mount
I attached a pic of what they look like to start out.

EDIT: oh yeah, make sure you get that back drivers side header bolt torqued down tight enough. I had a helluva time with mine, had to use a box wrench cut in half to get to it. carried it around with me in the truck, that bolt liked to come loose about every2k miles or so because I couldnt get enough torque on it.
 

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I picked mine up at home depot, its just an aluminum turnbuckle with steel threaded eyelet ends. rated for 1,000 lbs of force. like $6 and some bolts, washers & a little ingenuity bending the eyelets to where they need to be.

I mounted mine to a stud on the block & the upper shock mount
I attached a pic of what they look like to start out.

EDIT: oh yeah, make sure you get that back drivers side header bolt torqued down tight enough. I had a helluva time with mine, had to use a box wrench cut in half to get to it. carried it around with me in the truck, that bolt liked to come loose about every2k miles or so because I couldnt get enough torque on it.
I had to make a tool for the drivers side rear header bolt and for the passanger side rear spark plugs

Good luck with the build look fine, I am planning to do another build for my buddy who has a 2000 since the local shop wont do it
 

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My I-Shaft is touching the headers. what is everyone using for I shaft?
My swap was a 1st gen but, I think the headers I bought actually had a dent pushed into the tube right there. Either that or I pushed it in with a hammer.
I had to persuade many things with a hammer on that project :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Its been long time coming cause I stopped working on it for a while. Trying to get it running in next few weeks. Good thing I can work on it at my work which has lifts. Cant wait to see your thread.
 

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They look like the hedman headers judging by the metal brand tag on the 1st header tube.... but looks good man have fun with it
 

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lookin good! :)

http://www.currentperformance.com/Swap_Parts/parts.html

look into these 2.8 polyurethane mounts listed here man! i just got done swaping out mine cause the ones supplied with the mount adapters failed after less than a year (oem style 2.8 like yours)

i just put these in and the engine barely moves at all

ps. i also bought a steel tube online (3/4" od by 1/2 id) to use with them so i could run half inch bolts thru them to match the holes in the 2.8 mount adapters (as they only come with a 7/16 id tube)
 
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