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Discussion Starter #161 (Edited)
I've got a few more bits done in the last week.

Transmission mount cross member. Which doubles as a frame stiffener.
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I fabbed up a loop for the driveshaft - more frame stiffening as well.

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Toe bar problem is sorted by mounting them under the spindle arms and machining a new center mount.
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Stock Vette rear sway bar is mounted up.

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Discussion Starter #162
That takes care of most of the fabrication for the rear end. There's still many small details to address but it's all built.

Next on the the front end of the frame

I chopped off the ugly, heavy frame horns and crossmember
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Much dead weight was removed
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The tubular K-member from Innovative Racecraft got welded in place.
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Discussion Starter #165
I've got to order some things before I can do much more to the front end. Sway bar, tie rod ends.The K-member definitely needs some additional bracing. It's intended for drag racing but I want this thing to corner and stop so more stiffness around the control arms is a must.
 

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I'm really starting to like where this is going with the front end work now.

Is that the Intrepid rack?

Who makes the extended arms? I went to check out the Innovative site, but not seeing much info there on any extended arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
I'm really starting to like where this is going with the front end work now.

Is that the Intrepid rack?

Who makes the extended arms? I went to check out the Innovative site, but not seeing much info there on any extended arms.
The extended arms are from Fatmanfab. They are 3" longer per side.

Yes, Dodge Intrepid rack. Front steer, long travel, 3-turns lock to lock, center takeoff.
 

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Discussion Starter #169
Speaking of the steering rack, the plan here is to defeat the hydraulics and then power the steering with a Kia electric power steering unit.

Today's project of modifying the rack turned out to be pretty quick and easy.

First step, cut off the hydraulic lines and remove the tube nuts.
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We need to plug off all 4 of these ports.
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I could have simply pinched off the lines and folded them over but I wanted a more sano outcome than that.
Instead I made some aluminum discs to fit down into the bottom of the port under the tube nuts. These were simply sliced off of some 3/8" round stock with a cut-off bit in the lathe.
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Sealing discs in the ports
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Nuts tightened up on top of them
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The next part it to defeat the piston inside the rack.
The right hand end of the rack has a cap in it. Luckily the spanner wrench for my angle grinder is a perfect fit.
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The cap is retained by a wire ring. You pull one end of the ring out of a slot on the side rotate the cap. The wire ring 'unwinds' out the slot.
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With the steering shaft turned all the way to the right we can see the piston.
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I drilled a hole in the piston so it can't trap air on one side and fight the steering.
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That's it! Just put the cap back in the end of the tube and wind the wire retainer back into place.
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The extended arms are from Fatmanfab. They are 3" longer per side.

Yes, Dodge Intrepid rack. Front steer, long travel, 3-turns lock to lock, center takeoff.
Thanks for the Fatman link.

I've always thought a center take off rack would be the way to go with the narrow control arm mounting of the S10 chassis. I'm excited to see you run with it.

Did you look into the AFX spindles at all? It's another big buy, but with the bolt on steering arm, might be able to run a shorter travel rack. Moot point, now, but thinking out loud anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Thanks for the Fatman link.

I've always thought a center take off rack would be the way to go with the narrow control arm mounting of the S10 chassis. I'm excited to see you run with it.

Did you look into the AFX spindles at all? It's another big buy, but with the bolt on steering arm, might be able to run a shorter travel rack. Moot point, now, but thinking out loud anyway.
After a bunch of reading it was never clear which AFX spindles to use or what modifications would be necessary or if AFX made drop spindles. I gave up and went with McGaughy drop spindles.
The bolt on steering arm is interesting. That setup could still be useful for quickening up the steering even more.
 

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The G body application will work for the S10. They actually share the same suspension geometry and parts between both platforms. The G body is just a bit wider where the control arms mount.

The AFX spindles have a 1" drop and are designed with extra height, so a shorter upper control arm is required to get the camber dialed in and make the most of the improved geometry, but it's pretty much the same as running tall ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #173 (Edited)
I've buttoned up a few things in the last 10 days. First was bracing the new tubular K-member to stiffen it up for hard cornering and braking. Where it really needed support was around the front lower control arm pivot. I ran tubular bracing from just behind that pivot up to the main frame and also straight across to tie both sides together. Then I added a cross brace up top to better tie the frame rails together.
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Getting the steering rack situated has proven to be quite a challenge. I've actually had it all mounted up in 3 different positions. Finally ripped it all apart and notched some more meterial out of the original frame rails to put the rack where it really needs to be.
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I don't think the Intrepid rack could be mounted here without the tubular K-member. The factory cross member and and probably the left motor mount would be very much in the way of the steering shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
The Intrepid rack requires a bracket to connect the tie rods to the center take-off of the rack.
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I also boxed in the front lower control arm ears.
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Discussion Starter #175
Bottoming bumpers done. Front and rear
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Sway bar mounting points done. I had to re-work the attachment points on both lower control arms. They were in the right place but at the wrong angles.
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Discussion Starter #176
That brings us up to date. I'm waiting on heim joints for the inner tie rod ends and some threaded sleeves for the tie rods. Those should arrive this week.

In a few days I'll be ready to start cutting the firewall and trans hump for clearance.
 
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