What size tires do you have?
Softer front suspension
I'm looking for some suggestions for my front suspension. I have a 1998 s10 LS 4.3L RWD pickup and I am looking to make the front suspension softer. I live on a dirt road but it's the road down the street that I have a problem with. This thing is more filled in potholes than the original pavement. I mean I see so many guys creeping their trucks down this road that is only a little over a quarter mile long. Anyways, it is rattling my poor s10 apart. I mean one day the door panel came off. Driving slow or fast makes no difference so I am looking to soften up the suspension. I don't want to spend a butt load on it. I'm thinking about coil over shocks. Any ideas?
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Quality shocks like Bilstein, etc would help if current's are worn. Anything to reduce 'unsprung' weight , ultralight wheels, brakes and tyres also get better suspension control.
It's not the thing to do normally, but in your situation, the biggest fattest tires you can mount and use, with air pressure of 20-25 psi, would help your first line of defense. 235/75 R15 might be the limit, but would give you more sidewall and tire diameter to flex and absorb. The tires would absorb the worst of it as long as you were driving gently. I do forestry and logging, am on dirt roads alot. A'holes drive fast and create the washboard and potholes. I do the above, and drive slow, hoping one of them comes along behind me and I can enjoy their pain as they have to drive slow for awhile.
Your not causing the 'Fasties' any pain..It's not the thing to do normally, but in your situation, the biggest fattest tires you can mount and use, with air pressure of 20-25 psi, would help your first line of defense. 235/75 R15 might be the limit, but would give you more sidewall and tire diameter to flex and absorb. The tires would absorb the worst of it as long as you were driving gently. I do forestry and logging, am on dirt roads alot. A'holes drive fast and create the washboard and potholes. I do the above, and drive slow, hoping one of them comes along behind me and I can enjoy their pain as they have to drive slow for awhile.
Your helping them improve driving techniques.
I feel like an a** myself, getting into it with them; I don't actually enjoy that whole scene. But, I am not going to get pushed to pounding my truck to smithereens, so I drive the speed where I don't feel my shocks cycling, bouncing and punching the dirt, and sort of pretend I don't know they are there. You can see they get pissed, which would be their reaction to having to cooperate with someone other than themselves. They either don't understand how their driving ruins the road for everyone, or they don't care, they just want what they want. Either way, I take care of my truck first. Maybe one of them stops and thinks about it, but I'm not betting.
i would just replace what you have thats original or old with new oem-style replacements from known manufacturers. i doubt theres a 'driver' s10 on the road that doesnt have some sort of worn suspension component.
Lots of non-OEM shocks are gas charged and contribute to spring rate, probably to offset sagging springs in older cars. Non-gas charged shocks won't add to spring rate and can soften up the ride a bit. It worked on the rear of my truck.
Your just training them. They can handle it . Wether they learn is up to them.I feel like an a** myself, getting into it with them; I don't actually enjoy that whole scene. But, I am not going to get pushed to pounding my truck to smithereens, so I drive the speed where I don't feel my shocks cycling, bouncing and punching the dirt, and sort of pretend I don't know they are there. You can see they get pissed, which would be their reaction to having to cooperate with someone other than themselves. They either don't understand how their driving ruins the road for everyone, or they don't care, they just want what they want. Either way, I take care of my truck first. Maybe one of them stops and thinks about it, but I'm not betting.
Wasn't aware 'gas charged' shock changed actual 'spring rate' thus ride height. Mfg's state pressurized gas prevents fluid foaming in hard use for more consistent control. And mite be best for potholed road.Lots of non-OEM shocks are gas charged and contribute to spring rate, probably to offset sagging springs in older cars. Non-gas charged shocks won't add to spring rate and can soften up the ride a bit. It worked on the rear of my truck.
Nivomats are a self leveling shock ($$$$) OE's have used . Also 'booster' shock that has an added Coil Spring are available for many apps. Both those types have a spring rate increase effect to offset increased load or spring defect.
Your Tacoma should have come with gas charged struts/shocks , per Toyota spec.
I'm running 245/60R15 tires and I have let some air out of them and that didn't work. I looked at some coil over shocks that would eliminate the coil spring for around $600.00I'm looking for some suggestions for my front suspension. I have a 1998 s10 LS 4.3L RWD pickup and I am looking to make the front suspension softer. I live on a dirt road but it's the road down the street that I have a problem with. This thing is more filled in potholes than the original pavement. I mean I see so many guys creeping their trucks down this road that is only a little over a quarter mile long. Anyways, it is rattling my poor s10 apart. I mean one day the door panel came off. Driving slow or fast makes no difference so I am looking to soften up the suspension. I don't want to spend a butt load on it. I'm thinking about coil over shocks. Any ideas?
I'm looking for some suggestions for my front suspension. I have a 1998 s10 LS 4.3L RWD pickup and I am looking to make the front suspension softer. I live on a dirt road but it's the road down the street that I have a problem with. This thing is more filled in potholes than the original pavement. I mean I see so many guys creeping their trucks down this road that is only a little over a quarter mile long. Anyways, it is rattling my poor s10 apart. I mean one day the door panel came off. Driving slow or fast makes no difference so I am looking to soften up the suspension. I don't want to spend a butt load on it. I'm thinking about coil over shocks. Any ideas?
245/60x15What size tires do you have?
'Air Ride' type seat from commercial vehicle is viable option. Some competition off road cars use similar . All 40+ yo desert racers use them for back protection .I'm running 245/60R15 tires and I have let some air out of them and that didn't work. I looked at some coil over shocks that would eliminate the coil spring for around $600.00
If its only 1/4 mile long and a road thats down the road.
Can you maybe avoid that road?
Here in Michigan most if our roads have a grid of sorts so you can go around a dirt road that has 10" deep ruts from a farmer driving back and forth from one field to the other.
I understand some states the roads follow rivers/mountains (Pennsylvania/West Virginia) or have some central city etc that all the roads go to.
But for the most part if you go 1/2 mile sometimes not even that far out of your way you can avoid the road with the issue.
I have had enough lowered rides and a few dirt roads that have the 8"-10" deep ruts to know no amount of suspension trickery is going to save those rockers. You simply avoid that road after you find out it has issues.
I just got back from getting some free steel. The road I went down had foot deep washouts, broken trees, was maybe 10 feet wide, with many blind hills with tons of chatter bumps. Just took it slow and no issues came up. But if I knew the road was that bad before hand I could have easily went around all that and only added 1/3 mile.
Some roads around lakes can be just as sketchy. But unless the road is one way(because its narrow) you can often avoid issues.
Onto the suspension. With a simplified shortened version.
Coil springs hold your car up. Thats the job of the coil. Just to keep the truck at a set height.
The shocks are what do all the hard work. They keep that front end as close to that set height as possible as fast as possible.
If the shock is to slow to react or something like a 8" rut overcomes the valving in the shock then the coil is affected.
Tire sidewall height and tire pressure can help reduce the jarring effect bumps can have. You can reduce pressure a bit. But if you go to far then your risking sidewall flex/damage.
Forget changing coil rates. Look at changing your shock valving. There is an entire science to this. Even doing the math you may get everything installed and find you need to fine tune the right side diffrent then the left side etc.
Short term I would avoid the road if you can. If not then start reading up on shock tech.
Can you maybe avoid that road?
Here in Michigan most if our roads have a grid of sorts so you can go around a dirt road that has 10" deep ruts from a farmer driving back and forth from one field to the other.
I understand some states the roads follow rivers/mountains (Pennsylvania/West Virginia) or have some central city etc that all the roads go to.
But for the most part if you go 1/2 mile sometimes not even that far out of your way you can avoid the road with the issue.
I have had enough lowered rides and a few dirt roads that have the 8"-10" deep ruts to know no amount of suspension trickery is going to save those rockers. You simply avoid that road after you find out it has issues.
I just got back from getting some free steel. The road I went down had foot deep washouts, broken trees, was maybe 10 feet wide, with many blind hills with tons of chatter bumps. Just took it slow and no issues came up. But if I knew the road was that bad before hand I could have easily went around all that and only added 1/3 mile.
Some roads around lakes can be just as sketchy. But unless the road is one way(because its narrow) you can often avoid issues.
Onto the suspension. With a simplified shortened version.
Coil springs hold your car up. Thats the job of the coil. Just to keep the truck at a set height.
The shocks are what do all the hard work. They keep that front end as close to that set height as possible as fast as possible.
If the shock is to slow to react or something like a 8" rut overcomes the valving in the shock then the coil is affected.
Tire sidewall height and tire pressure can help reduce the jarring effect bumps can have. You can reduce pressure a bit. But if you go to far then your risking sidewall flex/damage.
Forget changing coil rates. Look at changing your shock valving. There is an entire science to this. Even doing the math you may get everything installed and find you need to fine tune the right side diffrent then the left side etc.
Short term I would avoid the road if you can. If not then start reading up on shock tech.
I would advise against Bilsteins or any monotube shock if you're looking for a soft ride. They are just not made for that.
are all of your bump stops still attached?
no bump stops can make bumpy roads 100x more annoying
no bump stops can make bumpy roads 100x more annoying
See previous 'desert racer' chair recco.
You seek less jarring ride presumably.
Better chair will give U that for sur.
Ultimately, Isn't it all about YOU .....
You seek less jarring ride presumably.
Better chair will give U that for sur.
Ultimately, Isn't it all about YOU .....
sometimes you cant make your present auto do what you want, and you have to get a different one to achieve one's goals
I don't see how investing $600 in coil overs is going to help. Unless you are an expert on off road suspension setup picking the correct coilovers won't be easy. Coilovers are usually used to improve handling for something like Autocross. They aren't necessarily soft. In fact usually a bit stiffer than the original setup.
If the road is a whole 440 yards long I'd suggest learning to live with it. My gravel driveway is 1/2 mile and after severe storms can get a bit rutted. I just drive slower and try to avoid the ruts until time and weather fill them back in. If you think an S10 doesn't like bumps try driving a Corvette on a potholed road. Might want to use a mouth guard to protect your teeth.
If the road is a whole 440 yards long I'd suggest learning to live with it. My gravel driveway is 1/2 mile and after severe storms can get a bit rutted. I just drive slower and try to avoid the ruts until time and weather fill them back in. If you think an S10 doesn't like bumps try driving a Corvette on a potholed road. Might want to use a mouth guard to protect your teeth.
Hi Quality double adjustables can get close if not exact. BUT are pricey...I would advise against Bilsteins or any monotube shock if you're looking for a soft ride. They are just not made for that.
If you wants to Play , you gots to Pay !
Your tale of woe about best reason ever to obtain really cool auto leveling road graderI don't see how investing $600 in coil overs is going to help. Unless you are an expert on off road suspension setup picking the correct coilovers won't be easy. Coilovers are usually used to improve handling for something like Autocross. They aren't necessarily soft. In fact usually a bit stiffer than the original setup.
If the road is a whole 440 yards long I'd suggest learning to live with it. My gravel driveway is 1/2 mile and after severe storms can get a bit rutted. I just drive slower and try to avoid the ruts until time and weather fill them back in. If you think an S10 doesn't like bumps try driving a Corvette on a potholed road. Might want to use a mouth guard to protect your teeth.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
S-10 Forum
S10forum is the community to discuss the S-Series, Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon. Join to discuss rebuilds, modifications, tech articles and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
