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Cut all the areas out, go to a salvage yard and cut the same panels out from a donor truck. Get you some cardboard and trace out some patch panels. Sand everything good and start tack welding those pieces in SAND real good, add body filler then sand again........
 

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Cut all the areas out, go to a salvage yard and cut the same panels out from a donor truck. Get you some cardboard and trace out some patch panels. Sand everything good and start tack welding those pieces in SAND real good, add body filler then sand again........
This video is pretty much garbage. He puts body filler over giant gaps in the metal.

Check these channels out for good metalworking and body work stuff:



 

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You can buy cab corners and rocker panels online you will need to do some cutting and welding to fit it. And if you don't want to throw too much money at it you can buy some rattle can color match and clear coat to paint it instead of paying a professional to paint it, wont be perfect but good enough.
 

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I have made half of a 57 chev 210 using handfuls of kitty hair bondo. Wear a rubber glove and you aren't covered in it. Lasts between 5 to 10 years depending what weather you have and if its parked inside. You look like a prime candidate for a aluminum tape and bondo job. Done in an hour for $20. Maybe $40 with sand paper and cheap can of paint.
 

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Be sure to get 2K clear coat or the rattle can base can start to fade from sunlight, among other things.
Rustoleum Midnight Black Metallic will match your flares real close. Most trouble you are going to run into is getting the flares off w/o breaking the mounting studs They're tiny and when you start to turn the nuts they like to break. Rustoleum makes a paint that's real close to that Victory Red. If you don't want to spend a fortune on Duplicolor. With their expensive cans with very little paint in them.
Gonna need a real Mig welder to get the current low enough to prevent burn outs. Flux core will just make a mess.
I've thought about using some thin aluminum and panel bond over the holes. Then go on eBay and buy some red vinyl wrap to cover the seams. Won't be perfect, but spending a week and a bunch off Benjamins on a salt belt body will be frustrating. Because it'll start to rust again, soon.
Since I live in WI, I just ignore it on my ZR2 and other beaters. Unless the car will never be driven in winter. Which this year has been close to 9 months. Last summer we had a drought. This year in mid June I'm still wearing sweatshirts and rain gear because we haven't really warmed up fully and it rains almost every day.
 

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That does not seem like fouling up bad. Running over someone’s baby would be fouling up bad. All you did was move some of the rust around on that rotted truck.

This does not answer your question. However, I would not fix that. There is too much rust to bother, IMO. Exception may be if you enjoy the work.

If you are bored, maybe rip or cut some of the junk off so it is not so jagged. Then, spray some rust encapsulator and body color paint over it so the damage is not so noticeable from 50’ away.
 

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That does not seem like fouling up bad. Running over someone’s baby would be fouling up bad. All you did was move some of the rust around on that rotted truck.

This does not answer your question. However, I would not fix that. There is too much rust to bother, IMO. Exception may be if you enjoy the work.

If you are bored, maybe rip or cut some of the junk off so it is not so jagged. Then, spray some rust encapsulator and body color paint over it so the damage is not so noticeable from 50’ away.
Too much rust to bother? that is a completely save-able truck if that is the only rust with what seems to be a very solid frame.

Cab corners rust, rocker panels rust, it's common and is no reason to give up on the truck and let it rot away this is exactly why they make replacements which you can buy fairly cheap.
 

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Too much rust to bother? that is a completely save-able truck if that is the only rust with what seems to be a very solid frame.

Cab corners rust, rocker panels rust, it's common and is no reason to give up on the truck and let it rot away this is exactly why they make replacements which you can buy fairly cheap.
The time and resources you and the OP expend on rusty, unremarkable vehicles is of little concern to me. It was not my intent to upset you. I have a couple S-trucks. One has a good frame but absolutely rotten body. Drivetrain...meh. At most, I rattle can spray some paint over the rust occasionally to make it less visible from 100' away. The other has no rust inside the rockers or rear cab corners I can find. I am open to some paint and body repairs on that as necessary. I am trying to keep that truck looking pretty good from 10' away.
 

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Bondo should go no where near that area. Use Duraglass, and that’s only to smooth out the grinding wheel swirls in the metal. Cut patch weld. Simple. Cheap. Less than half a day.


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i agree with the 'you just rearranged the rust' comment...
cab corner patch panel needed there... sherman brand was cheapest for my 2wd regular cab
i plan to jbweld it on and just live with the 'capped corners' look personally... but mine is an xtreme and has plenty of hard body lines from the factory... so whats one more?
the cab corners rot from the rear and your welds wont be clean on the rear... jbweld is the cheapest way to seal it up and have it hold up for a long time. you can knock it down and bondo it but if you had to ask i think that is probably beyond your abilities. maybe try bondo/tigerhair on the rocker and get that process down before you get fancy on the cab corner... definitely hit that whole truck with undercoatings before it pops up in other places.
 
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