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Hardcore Metalhead
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can it be done? My '94 as the adjustable rockers, and I need to reset the lash, due to a failed experiment from the other week. Do I have to spin the crankshaft to get everything happy, or can I just tighten the rockers down without putting that cylinder at TDC? I know it's possible with LS1s, but not sure about the 4.3L.
 

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Got Fuel Rails?
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Betterthanyou gave you instructions in your last post: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3176113&postcount=12

Going one by one on each cylinder you do this:

Basicaly you turn the motor over(to the right, like you are tightening the crank bolt) until you see the exhast start to open.

Tighten the intake rocker until you feel resistance on the pushrod when turning it. Tighten an additional 1/2 turn.

Turn the engine over untill the intake starts to close.

Do the exhaust.

Repeat for the rest of the cylinders.

This never works for me, but it does get it close enough to start the engine. If it ticks when you start it they are too loose. If it lopes like a dragster, they are too tight. Tighten them untill the ticking stops while the motor is running if need be. This will probably make a bit of a mess. They do make splash gaurds to keep it clean, i don't know how well they work though.
 

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Hardcore Metalhead
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Search wasn't working for me...was looking for that thread.

On the driver side, the intake valve is on the left, and the exhaust is on the right, correct? Intake/exhaust
 

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Nitto1320 M O D
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1,612 Posts
the ehhaust valves will have ehaust manifold pipes under them, the intake valve will have intake runners above them.
 

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Got Fuel Rails?
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Depends. You have to look. The exhaust port lines up with the exhuast rocker, the intake port lines up with the intake rocker. Some cylinders are floped. Drivers side it thould go front to back E-I-I-E-E-I if my memory is correct.
 

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Hardcore Metalhead
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I got the things as damn near as close as I can tell to zero lash + 1/2 turn. Next question - is there any chance of a hanging valve or anything liable to hit a piston, if anything is off some? I can live with the lash being a bit off, if it's not going to damage the engine, for a week or two until it goes in the shop.
 

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Got Fuel Rails?
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You don't want to drive it with the lash off. It is hard on parts if it is too loose. And you can burn up valves if it is too tight.

Does it spin over ok? If you followed the procedure you should be good to hold the pushrods in place and do final tightening if it needs it.
 

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Hardcore Metalhead
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
rat said:
You don't want to drive it with the lash off. It is hard on parts if it is too loose. And you can burn up valves if it is too tight.

Does it spin over ok? If you followed the procedure you should be good to hold the pushrods in place and do final tightening if it needs it.
It spins over ok - as much as I can get it to spin - and I haven't heard any noises or the like from it. All the pushrods are about 1/2 turn past drag. I'm trying to do it by myself, which makes it hard since I can't spin the crank from the top of the engine - I have to get under the truck.

Is there any way to swap these POS "adjustables" out for the regular "torque and go" ones?
 

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Registered
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i was told the easiest way to adjust is with the valve covers off while it's running. get the rockers tight enough that the pushrods won't slip out, bump the starter and repeat a few times, then start it up and tweak from there. NOTE: Don't even try this unless somebody backs it up... I have no practical experience with this! may work, may not... but it came from a reliable source
 

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Outlaw LS1 said:
Well, this is wonderful. Not the crank bolt just spins, without turning the crank. ****.
Strip the crank? Probably should have removed the plugs, it turns over a lot easier that way.
 

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Hardcore Metalhead
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
rat said:
Strip the crank? Probably should have removed the plugs, it turns over a lot easier that way.
I had two out on each side, just not the rear two. Piss on this, I'm going to have the pile of shit towed to a shop.
 

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Hardcore Metalhead
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Confirmed, crank is stripped. Can it be helicoiled or have a similar procedure done to allow a larger bolt to be used, or do I need to buy a new crank and have everything ripped apart?

Boredom + tools = bad combination.
 
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