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Discussion Starter #1
WELL I TOOK THE SCREEN OF MY MAF, NOW THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIKE IS ON, WHAT IS UP WITH THAT. EVERYONE I TALKED TO ON HERE SAID THEY HAD NO PROBLEMS? SHOULD I PUT THE SCREEN BACK ON OR WHAT? THANKS XTREME21
 

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Discussion Starter #2
figured out that i put the maf back on backwards, probably drove like this 10 miles or so, so put maf on right then put screen back in, light still on, what should i do?/ thanks
 

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life begins @ 20 psi
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To clear the "Check Engine" light, remove the battery voltage for at least 10 seconds by disconnecting one of the battery cables. This will also clear any additional trouble codes stored in your ECM. On the downside, you will lose all the presets on your radio... HTH

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so all i have to do is unhook my battery for about a minute and the check engine light go off! my truck is a 99 s10 xtreme
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well i disconntected it, light is still on, what should i do know??
 

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life begins @ 20 psi
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Sounds like you still have a issue somewhere in your truck. Being that you have a newer s-series, I believe that you have a different diagnostic port than the 82 to 93 trucks had. These trucks have an ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) port under the dash near the fuse panel. Jumpering the A (ground) terminal to the B (diagnostic) terminal with a paper clip and the ignition on would flash the check engine light to reveal what trouble codes were stored in the ECM. The only thing that I can suggest now is get your hands on a Haynes repair manual or the like and see how to pull the trouble codes from your truck. If you get a Haynes manual, it will be covered in the emissions and control systems section. Hopefully, you will be able to pull the codes without having to buy a code reader. Sorry that I can't give you anymore help :( .

Mike
 

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I'd Rather be Blown than Injected
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Try pulling the ECM fuse for about 30 min. Mite work.
 

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2SMOOTH
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Does the truck seem to idle and drive ok, or does it chuggle or surge? If it runs ok and idles smoothly, It most likely is not a problem with the MAF. If there was a MAF problem, the truck would run rough, if it ran at all. Check to make sure you didn't forget to plug in some other connector or sensor when you were working. Other than that, you'll have to read the stored code.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UNPLUGGED THE BATTERY AND IT WENT OFF
 

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life begins @ 20 psi
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Cool, glad to hear that you got it fixed! But, it didn't work the first time that you tried it before? :confused:

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #12
no the 1st time nothing happened, the 2nd time it fixed it though! thanks
 

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whats the advantage of removing the screen??
 

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Discussion Starter #14
more air to the engine = more hp
 

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Danthemanxx said:
whats the advantage of removing the screen??
None really! The screen and divider are there to correct the air flow ( Straighten) after the stock air box. The stock air box setup creates a voilant turbulance, and if left the way it is, the motor couldnt get all the air it needed quick enough. The advantage of removing the screen and center bar ( In Theory) with and aftermarket intake, is too make it easier for the motor to get air it needs, hence more. The stock MAF and TBI unit are sized almost exact, and the TBI units determines the amount of air that can get in so removing all this doesnt really do alot more than make the air available. I will tell you all this, myself and 2 others persons from different boards have had this dynoed. Taking the screen and bar of lead to a loss of horsepower of 5-7. And when the grant unit was tried, 7-12 horsepower lost. Part of this is due to area, with the area size being increased the air movement slowed down enough that tha MAF didnt cool as far leading to a bad reading of air density and amout which also lead to a loss 1 degree of timing and fuel addage due to this misread.
 
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