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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK. First off i'd like to thank anyone and everyone that is help to me on this forum. I'd like to solid axle swap my 01 jimmy at some point. I am getting sick of doing wheel bearings in this P.O.S lol, plus I don't like the idea of off roading with IFS. Seams like stuff would break way to easy.
I have been doing a ton of reasearch on this forum (cuz obviously this is the BEST lol) and I get most of the logistics behind the swap. I can get a hold of 89-90 jeep cherokee front and rear axles, which I believe are dana 30's for cheap.
Now I am a noob to the off road scene, so feel free to put in any tips and hints on getting the job done right. I believe the rear would be pretty simple cuz its already a axle with leafs. I am not lookin for extreme lift, but want a pretty aggressive stance with the ability to go offroading within reason. Like I said I have been doing some research and I have decided that for my build the leafs in the front would be the best and most logical. I know Sky Offroad makes a weld-on leaf shackle kit. That seems like it would be the easiest and most effective way to mount the leafs. I am also thinkin that rough country 3inch lift leafs would be a good start with possably 1or2 inch blocks all the way around. Im pretty sure obviously brake lines would have to be extended.
I have a stock transfercase with the stock blazer/jimmy u joint design. So if I'm switching over to dana 30's what would I have to do for drive shafts? Front I think would just slide out and a jeep one would slide in, but I could have been informed wrong also. I don't want to bind or have any problems with the drive shafts as this is also my daily driver. I have seen a lot of people make a custom bracket for the transfer case and tranny, is this necessary or just to help beef it up? As for steering I have seen a bunch of different ways this could be rigged up, but not sure what would be the easiest and cheapest. Quite honestly I am lost on the steering set up... I know I want to have a steering stabalizer. I'm not to worried about ABS, but what would be the best way to elliminate ABS?
So, I believe I covered everything that I have knowledge of and if I am missing anything, anything at all please inform me. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have been wanting to do this since I bought the rig, but honestly just been to CHICKEN, so to speek. LOL. Hope to get some positive feedback and knowledge. Also looking to make some friends and possably wheeling buddies out of this experience. Again Thanks!!!
 

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Do not use blocks on the front, and i would rethink the rough country springs not the best ride. The trans cross member is changed do to the d shaft dropping more and needing room. For steering a astro box would be one thought on steering with a astro arm or yj arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ABS--just cut it out and T the the lines for the front end

Most will agree -- do NOT use blocks on the front end and try not to on the rear

you'll need new shocks & mounts for them

and I'll let the others with narrow axles, help on the steering/ axles part of this...

So on the brake lines should be able to take it right off the master cylinder and T it? That will eliminate all the ABS. As for lifting the front if I don't use blocks Just a Spring over with shackles should be enough? Good info. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do not use blocks on the front, and i would rethink the rough country springs not the best ride. The trans cross member is changed do to the d shaft dropping more and needing room. For steering a astro box would be one thought on steering with a astro arm or yj arm.
Ok... very good info. So if rough country isn't a very good ride, what would be a good combo for springs to still get lift? Now I have heard of using an astro steering box, but If i do that will that allow me to use all the stock jeep steering components? Also with the trans cross member the d shaft has to drop more does that mean the whole transfer case is being dropped or jus the d shaft? And was I right about the jeep shafts, do they jus slide into the blazer t-case? Or do I have to custom fab d shafts? (cut both and weld together?) I know this seems kinda stupid, but its my first swap and I don't want to mess everything up lol. Im trying to get all info needed before I even start buying parts. Thanks Tim89!
 

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Ok... very good info. So if rough country isn't a very good ride, what would be a good combo for springs to still get lift? Now I have heard of using an astro steering box, but If i do that will that allow me to use all the stock jeep steering components? Also with the trans cross member the d shaft has to drop more does that mean the whole transfer case is being dropped or jus the d shaft? And was I right about the jeep shafts, do they jus slide into the blazer t-case? Or do I have to custom fab d shafts? (cut both and weld together?) I know this seems kinda stupid, but its my first swap and I don't want to mess everything up lol. Im trying to get all info needed before I even start buying parts. Thanks Tim89!

The rs44044s i think they are from 4wd factory, and yes they ride like crap. The steering box will allow you to use the stock jeep setup but will have to be made longer. The trans crossmember will stay the same place but the d shaft will drop more than stock. The front drive shaft i cant help you on since im still 2wd.
 

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^ I thought RS was Rancho Suspension? In any case, the basic agreement around here is either run the stock dakota leaves or the Rancho Suspension 44044's. They are the 2 that work best with our trucks.

Seriously, not to sound like a dick or anything but....To be honest, if you have that many questions, chances are you haven't done that much research. These rigs are built off of research from others, thats how most of us built ours. What i would do is click on our sticky and look for the list of SFA builds, then figure out which one/ones you like and research the hell out of them (till you are blue in the face). I know i spent a many of nights up until 2 or 3 am just reading other peoples builds(and about 1.5 years studying the concept before i started mine). Then after you have that good basis of knowledge, and understand the concept. We are more than willing to help you out, but we tend to help others more who help themselves. Hope you dont take this the wrong way.
 

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^ i agree i have just started my SAS lift aswell and i have no questions because i have read almost every complete sas lift from start to finish on this forum, doing 5 lifts on jeeps probably helped out tho,

and for your front drive shaft u need to get the output shaft/gear& and d shaft from a cherokee, and i get a ford 8.8 rear axle and i think every1 else will agree way stronger than the dana 35 thats in the rear of jeeps
 

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sorry they ride great the rc springs ride like crap the Rancho springs are great from what i hear. Again sorry i got them mixed up.
 

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^ Another excellent question. We need to make up a sticky for how to think about and get the most out of the SFA section. If i get some time i might sit down and write something out. Then send it to some of you guys through pms and get some additions and what not to it...... Hmmmm
 

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^ Another excellent question. We need to make up a sticky for how to think about and get the most out of the SFA section. If i get some time i might sit down and write something out. Then send it to some of you guys through pms and get some additions and what not to it...... Hmmmm
is this what u mean????: LIFT HEIGHT TIRE SIZE GEAR RATIO
p.s. sorry for the thread jack
 

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Something like that, but more like a decision manual or something or things to know or point guys/girls in the right direction.
 

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^ i agree, (cant wait to get my truck finished)
 

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Thanks! Now i just gotta write it. lol
 

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We've got faith in ya! You write better than most of use anyway.

Also, I'm sure you have it worked out in your head already, but I just wanted to say that over on the diesel place they have a big list of questions that you copy, paste and answer individually and it seems to work good.

Like:

1. Desired tire size:

2. Intended use (DD, trail, mud, rock, etc.):

3. Desired engine choice:

4. Suspension design (leaf sprung or link, if link what type of spring (air, coil, coil-over, etc.)):

Just a thought though Super, I have complete faith in you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
^ I thought RS was Rancho Suspension? In any case, the basic agreement around here is either run the stock dakota leaves or the Rancho Suspension 44044's. They are the 2 that work best with our trucks.

Seriously, not to sound like a dick or anything but....To be honest, if you have that many questions, chances are you haven't done that much research. These rigs are built off of research from others, thats how most of us built ours. What i would do is click on our sticky and look for the list of SFA builds, then figure out which one/ones you like and research the hell out of them (till you are blue in the face). I know i spent a many of nights up until 2 or 3 am just reading other peoples builds(and about 1.5 years studying the concept before i started mine). Then after you have that good basis of knowledge, and understand the concept. We are more than willing to help you out, but we tend to help others more who help themselves. Hope you dont take this the wrong way.

Well, first off I'd like to thank you for the input and opinion on which leafs to run. I appreciate all the help and encouraging criticism I hope lol... I know I want to run leafs up front because its gonna be more cost effective and I am only looking for a good aggressive stance with the abbility to run in the woods accasionally. I'd like to run 31-33s and still pass NH inspection. I plan on buying the Sky Offroad weld on leaf kit which will allow me to at least get the axle in place. I will keep doing research till I understand the concept more. Apparently I didn't know as much as I thought. The only reason I asked what d shaft to run up front was because I have read that different t-cases called for different d shafts. But again thanks for the help and hope to get this figured out eventually. Because I have been working 2 jobs Im not in a major rush, but would like to see my baby eventually standing up! (so to speak lol!) I have been looking at all the coil SFA's, OMG these are amazing, but I don't have that kind of fab skills, let alone the time to do it! The trails in NH arent that great anyway so leaf set up will do jus fine. Hopefully I didn't piss to many people off by starting this thread. I just wanted to see what kind of info I could get to help fill in the blanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
is this what u mean????: LIFT HEIGHT TIRE SIZE GEAR RATIO
p.s. sorry for the thread jack
No problem I am here to learn as much as possable and try to make as many friends as possable. :D Everyone has been giving me good info and has already started getting my gears turning... I am excited for this project and can't wait. The support on this site is amazing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Welcome aboard and you are already getting some very good advice, but I would like to know what size tire you are planning to run and what type of off-roading you intend on doing?
Thank you deisel I am happy to be part of this site. As for tire size I don't want to go to big, cuz I know that the dana 30-35's aren't very strong for anything over 31-33's, plus NH has a state law that the bumper cant be over 30 in. tall. Its not going to be in the woods everyday due to the fact its also a daily driver. For off-roading the trails around my town arent to bad, honestly I could probably go through them with a t-bar crank and shackles, but I don't want to do that, plus I go through wheel bearings as it is. Crankin the tbars would just put more stress on them. So mainly doin it for looks...:cool:
 
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