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Discussion Starter #1
I did this for the york now I will do it for the sanden (7) line.







Belt Tension
Grooves Tension, lb (kgf)
A 121 ± 5 (55 ± 2)
B 132 ± 5 (60 ± 2)
C 132 ± 5 (60 ± 2)
M 132 ± 5 (60 ± 2)
PV4 132 ± 5 (60 ± 2)
PV6 198 ± 5 (90 ± 2)


(PolyVee tension based on 33 lb (15kgf) per groove).


Speed Rating
Model Clutch Type Max RPM
Constant Downshift
SD5H14 Std. 6,000 7,000
SD5H14 HD 4,000 6,000
SD7B10 All 6,000 7,000
SD7H13 All 6,000 8,000
SD7H15 Std. 6,000 8,000
SD7H15 HD 4,000 6,000
SD7H15 SHD 4,000 4,000

Acceptable Mounting Angles



Special Service Tools
These tools can be obtained from your local tool supplier.



1. Oil Dipstick 5. Lip Seal / SD7 Seal Plate Tool 9. Rotor Installation Driver
2. Armature Plate Spanner 6. Armature Driver 10. O-Ring Hook
3. Armature Plate Puller 7. Rotor Puller Jaws
4. Rotor Puller Set 8. Shaft Seal Protective Sleeve


Standard Tools


1. External Snap Ring Pliers 4. Gasket Scraper
2. Internal Snap Ring Pliers 5. Graduated Cylinder
3. Feeler Gauges


Valve Plate Test
Suction or discharge valve breakage will cause a clacking sound at idle.
If head gasket failure occurs, discharge pressure will be low and suction pressure will be high at

idle.
Valve and gasket condition can be checked as follows:
Connect gauge set to suction and discharge service valves.
Run compressor for 5 minutes at idle and stop.
Observe time for discharge pressure and suction pressure to equalize. If less than 2 minutes, in

a TVX system, a valve or gasket may be damaged. CCOT systems will equalize more quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Clutch Inspection
1. Measure voltage at clutch. Low voltage at the clutch may be due to poor ground or power

connection, or problems with the vehicle electrical system. Check for tight fit of field coil

retaining snap ring.

2. Measure current draw when clutch is engaged. Normal current should be 3.6 - 4.2A at 12

VDC.

• Overcurrent- Short circuit within feild coil or in compressor circuit.

• No current - Open circuit.

• If a short or open is found in the field coil, it must be replaced.

3. Air Gap

• Clutch air gap should be 0.016 - 0.031 in (0.4 - 0.8 mm). Measure with a feeler guage.

• Adjust as per Section 14.6

4. Suspected Clutch Rotor Bearing Noise

• Remove drive belt.

• With clutch disengaged, rotate pulley by hand. If excessive roughness or wobble is found,

replace the clutch rotor assembly.




1. Shaft Key* 7.Valve Plate Assembly* 13. TPS Clip (Optional)
2. Felt Ring* 8. Head Gasket* 14. TPS Screw (Optional)
3. Shaft Seal Snap Ring* 9. Cylinder Head* 15. Shaft Seal Kit - 2, 3 & 4
4. Lip Seal with O-ring* 10. Cylinder Head Bolt 16. Valve Plate Kit - 6, 7 & 8
5. Oil Plug 11. Pressure Relief Valve (Optional) 17. Cylinder Head Kit - 8 & 9
6. Block Gasket* 12. Thermal Protector Switch (Optional) 18. Gasket Kit - 6 & 8



20A. Armature Dust Cover Screw (SD-5) 23. Armature Plate* 27. Rotor Assembly*
20B. Armature Dust Cover Screw (SD-7) 24. Clutch Shims* 28. Field Coil Assembly Snap Ring*
21A. Armature Dust Cover (SD-5) 25. Rotor Snap Ring* 29. Field Coil Assembly
21B. Armature Dust Cover (SD-7) 26A. Rotor Bearing Dust Cover (SD-5) 30. Accessory Kit - 1,

22, 24, 25 & 28
22. Shaft Nut* 26B. Rotor Bearing Dust Cover (SD-7) 31. Armature / Rotor Assembly Kit - 23 &

27


General Service Information
It is recommended that a new receiver-drier or accumulator-drier be installed if a compressor is

replaced or an internal repair is made.

1. Keep dirt and foreign naterial from getting on or into the compressor or the A/C system. The

area around the A/C hose fittings should be carefully cleaned with a non-petroleum based

solvent before the connections are broken. All parts to be re-used or installed should be cleaned

with a non-petroleum based solvent and blown dry with clean compressed air or lint-free cloths.

2. Trouble-free installation and operation of an SD compressor require:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Correct pulley alignment
Correct fit of compressor mounting surfaces to the bracket and correct fit of the bracket to the

engine. Clearance between compressor and bracket should not exceed 0.2mm (0.008in) per ear

for ear-mount compressors or 0.4mm (0.016in) total for 2 ears.
Correct torque of all mounting bolts and nuts
Correct drive belt tension
3. Never operate the compressor at high speed or for a prolonged time without a sufficient

refrigerant charge in the system. Probable results are overheating, internal damage and seizure.

4. If an internal repair is performed on an R134a compressor, evacuate the A/C system for at

least 45 minutes before recharging to remove moisture which may have been absorbed by the

PAG oil in the compressor.

5. Parts which require lubrication before assembly, such as O-rings, should be lubricated with

clean 5GS refrigerant oil.


1. Before any internal repair is done, drain the oil from the compressor.
Remove the oil plug and drain as much oil as possible into a suitable container.
Remove the caps (if present) from suction and discharge ports
Drain oil from the suction and discharge ports into a suitable container while turning the shaft

clockwise only with a socket wrench on the armature retaining nut


2. Measure and record the amount of oil drained from the compressor.

3. Inspect the oil for signs of contamination such as discoloration of foreign material.

4. Perform repair to the compressor.


5. Add the same amount of new oil to the compressor as was measured in step 2. Be sure to

use the correct oil for the compressor as shown in Section 6.3.

6. Re-install oil plug. Seal and O-ring must be clean and not damaged. Torque to 11-15 ft•lb (15

-20 N•m, 150-200 kgf•cm). Be careful not to cross thread the oil plug.

7. It is recommended that the oil quantity be confirmed after re-installation of the compressor to

the vehicle as per Section 10.2.

Oil Charge Determination for Long Hose Applications
13.4.1 TXV Systems, Less than 56 oz. (1600g) Refrigerant Charge
1. The desired oil charge for the systems with unusually long hoses, such as trucks, tractors,

etc., can be determined based on the total refrigerant charge when less than 56 oz. (1600g)

refrigerant is used.
2. Calculate the desired oil charge as below:
SD5H14: Oil amount (fl.oz.) = (Refrigerant charge in oz. x 0.125) + 1.35. Oil amount (cc) = (

Refrigerant charge in grams x 0.125) + 40.

SD7H15: Oil amount (fl.oz.) = [(Refrigerant charge in oz. x 0.06) + 2.2] ÷ 0.9. Oil amount (cc) =

[(Refrigerant charge in grams x 0.06) + 60] ÷ 0.9.

3. For a new compressor to be used in this type of system, subtract the standard oil charge

shown in Section 6.3 from the desired total oil charge to determine how much oil should be

added to the compressor.

4. Remove the oil filler plug and charge the compressor with the amount of additional oil

determined in step 3. Use only new oil of the correct type as shown in Section 6.3.

5. Re-install oil plug. Seat and O-ring must be clean and not damaged. Torque to 11-18 ft•lb (15

-25 N•m, 150-200 kgf•cm).



Comp. RPM Oil in compressor
fl.oz cc
1,000 3.4 100
2,000 2.5 75
3,000 1.7 50
4,000 1.3 40
5,000 1.2 35
 

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Discussion Starter #4
14.1a Keyed Shaft Armature Removal
(Note: Keyed shaft can be identified in that the holes for the armature plate spanner will have

threads in them.)



If armature dust cover is present, remove the 3 or 6 bolts holding it in place and remove cover. If

auxilliary sheet metal pulley is present, remove the screws holding it in place. Then remove

pulley.
Insert pins of armature plate spanner into threaded holes of armature assembly.
Hold armature assembly stationary while removing retaining nut with 3/4", 19mm or 14mm

socket wrench, as appropriate.
Remove armature assembly using puller. Thread 3 puller bolts into the threaded holes in the

armature assembly. Turn center screw clockwise until armature assembly comes loose.
If shims are above shaft key, remove them now. If shims are below shaft key, the key and

bearing dust cover (if present) must be removed before shims can be removed.
Remove bearing dust cover (if present). Use caution to prevent distorting cover when removing

it.
Remove shaft key by tapping loose with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer.
Remove shims. Use a pointed tool and a small screwdriver to prevent the shims from binding

on the shaft.



1. If armature dust cover is present, remove the 3 or 6 bolts holding it in place and remove

cover. If auxillary sheet metal pulley is present, remove the screws holding it in place. Then

remove pulley.

2. Insert pins of armature plate spanner into threaded holes of armature assembly.

3. Hold armature assembly stationary while removing retaining nut with 3/4", 19mm, or 14mm

socket wrench, as appropriate.

4. Lift off armature plate with fingers. If armature does not come off easily, spray an anti seize oil

into shaft to loosen. Armature plate can also be loosened by gently prying between rotor and

armature plate with two flat screwdrivers.


5. Remove bearing dust cover (if present). Use caution to prevent distorting cover when

removing it.

6. Remove shims. Use a pointed tool and a small screwdriver to prevent the shims from binding

on the shaft.



Field Coil Assembly Removal
Loosen lead wire clamp screw with #2 Phillips screwdriver until wire(s) can be slipped out from

under clamp.
Undo any wire connections on the compressor which would prevent removal of the field coil

assembly.
Remove snap ring
Remove the field coil assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #5




6. Check air gap with feeler gauge. Specification is 0.016" -0.031" (0.4 - 0.8mm). If gap is not

even around the clutch, gently tap down at the high spots. If the overall gap is out of spec.,

remove the armature assembly and change the shims as necessary.

7. Replace armature dust cover (if used) and torque 3 or 6 bolts to specification below.

3 - 1/4-20 bolts (SD-5): 2-4 ft•lb (2-5 N•m, 25-50 kgf•cm)

6 - M5 bolts (SD-7): 5-8 ft•lb (7-11 N•m, 70-110 kgf•cm)

*Note: Over torque of SD508/SH14 dust cover bolts will cause air gap to become out of spec.




Replacement of Lip Type Shaft Seal (SD5H14, SD7B10, SD7H13, SD7H15)
Note: Lip seal assembly and felt ring must never be reused. Always replace these components.

1. Be sure all gas pressure inside the compressor has been relieved.





2. Remove armature dust cover (if used), armature assembly, rotor bearing dust cover (if used),

shaft key, and clutch shims as per section 14.1.





3. Insert the points of a pair of snap ring pliers into the holes of the felt ring retainer and pry out

the retainer and felt ring.





4. Remove seal snap ring with internal snap ring pliers.


5. Use lip seal removal and installation tool to remove lip seal assembly. Twist the tool until the 2

lips on the tool engage the slots in the lip seal housing and pull the seal out with a twisting

motion.





6. Clean out shaft seal cavity thoroughly. Debris can be removed using a non-petroleum based

solvent and lint free cloth. The area should then be blown out with clean, dry compressed air.

Make sure all foreign material is completely removed.





7. Place shaft seal protective sleeve over compressor shaft. Inspect the sleeve to ensure that it

has no scratches and is smooth so that the lip seal will not be damaged. Make sure there is no

gap between the end of the sleeve and the seal surface on the shaft.





8. Engage the lips of the seal removal and installation tool with the slots in the new lip seal

housing. Make sure the lip seal assembly, especially the O-ring, is clean. Dip the entire lip seal

assembly, on the tool, into clean 5GS refrigerant oil. Make sure the seal assembly is completely

covered with oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
9. Install lip seal over shaft and press firmly to seat. Twist the tool in the opposite direction to

disengage it from the seal and withdraw the tool.




10. Reinstall shaft seal snap ring with internal snap ring pliers. Beveled side should face up (

outward/away from compressor body). Ensure that snap ring is completely seated in groove. It

may be necessary to tap the snap ring lightly to seat it in the groove.


11. Tap new felt ring assembly into place.



12. Reinstall clutch shims, shaft key, rotor bearing dust cover (if used), and armature assembly

as described in Section 14.6







Cylinder Head Removal

1. Be sure all internal compressor pressure has been relieved.



2. Inspect cylinder head for fitting or thread damage. Replace if damaged



3. Remove cylinder head bolts.



4. Use a small hammer and gasket scraper to separate the cylinder head from the valve plate.

Be careful not to scratch the gasket surface of the cylinder head.



5. Carefully lift the cylinder head from the valve plate.







6. It is recommended that both the head gasket (between the cylinder head and the valve plate)

and the block gasket (between the valve plate and the cylinder block) be replaced any time the

cylinder head is removed. However, if no service is required to the valve plate, it may be left in

place. If the valve plate comes loose from the cylinder block, the block gasket must be replaced.



7. Carefully remove old head gasket from top of valve plate with gasket scraper. Be careful not

to disturb the valve plate to cylinder block joint if valve plate has been left in place. If valve plate

comes loose from cylinder block, proceed to Section 16.2, Valve Plate Removal, and replace

block gasket.





Valve Plate Removal
1. Using a small hammer and gasket scraper, carefully separate valve plate from cylinder block.

Be careful not to damage sealing surface of cylinder block.

2. Inspect reed valves and retainer. Replace valve plate assembly if any part is damaged.

3. Carefully remove any gasket material remaining on valve plate, cylinder block or cylinder

head. Do not damage sealing surfaces on components.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Valve Plate and Cylinder Head Installation
1. Large gasket: OD of block gasket is 4-3/4" (120mm) and sealing face of block does not have

a 4-1/2" (114.7mm) diameter step.

2. Small gasket: OD of gasket is 4-1/2" (114.7mm) and sealing face of the cylinder block has a

4-1/2" (114.7mm) diameter step.

3. Coat new block gasket with clean 5GS refrigerant oil.

4. Install block gasket. Align new gasket to location pin holes and orifice(s). Notch (if present)

should face same direction as oil plug or adaptor.

5. Place valve plate on cylinder block with discharge valve, retainer and nut facing up (away from

cylinder block) and location pins properly located in holes.

6. Use vacuum pump and small tube to remove residual oil from each bolt hole. If this step is

not performed, hydraulic pressure can be created when the cylinder head bolts are tightened.

This pressure can break the cylinder block.

7. Coat head gasket with clean 5GS refrigerant oil.

8. Install head gasket cover location pins, checking for correct orientation.

9. Install cylinder head.

10. Install cylinder head bolts and tighten in a star pattern. Torque first to approximately 14 ft•lbf

(19.6 N•m, 200 kgf•cm), then finish by torquing to 24-27 ft•lbf (32.4-36.3 N•m, 330-370kgf•cm).




all of the 7 line of compessors have the same displacement and at max RPM 6,000 it is around

3.4 CFM at 140 PSI.

to find the CFM at what pressure you run it at use this below,

take the pressure you want and add 14.7 to it. now devide by '14.7' now take that number and

devide it from '32.986' that will give you the CFM at that pressure.

If there is anything I missed please let me know.

if this helps you also let me know ;)
 

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FATBOY
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247 Posts
Lol I guess we can all be Sanden techs now!
 

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23,957 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Dragginbody said:
bump for a awesome compressor :)

ha ha that it is.
they have soooo much less vibration. brackets last longer ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dragginbody said:
doug find me 2 new backing plates cheap for my sd5 h14 comps!

lol will try ;)
 
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