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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everybody. if you've looked at my username you can see i'm new to S10's and that's why i'm here. pretty set in what i want so please don't try and change my mind. so i wanna fit 35's on my 2000 S10 ZR2. Now i have plans for the 2.5" RC lift and a 3" body but i haven't looked much into body lifts. The reason for the body is so i don't have to do as much trimming even if it just saves a little. Next on is gonna be tires and im looking to run some 35" tires and im gonna go ahead and regear it with 4.11 if i can but i cant find any info about the front diff so i can buy gears for it. i can find stuff for the rear diff all day but nothing for the front so any help would be appreciated. also gonna get wheel spacers as well. one more thing this is a project truck and not a daily driver.
 

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Welcome.
You seem to know what you want and how to get there. My only question is what are the wheel spacers for? Since the OEM wheels are 51mm (2") positive offset simply running 0 offset (2wd) wheels will make the tires stick out 2" farther on each side with just stock 7" wheels. Wider wheels will add even more width. Chances of the tires rubbing does increase doing that or spacers. Spacers and 0 offset will look weird. Too much poke.
I'm not a big fan of lifting a truck and putting big tires on it and putting all the additional stress on wheel spacers. You willing to bet your life and the lives of everyone else on the highway with you on those wheel spacers? Also will really increase the load on your wheel bearings. just food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome.
You seem to know what you want and how to get there. My only question is what are the wheel spacers for? Since the OEM wheels are 51mm (2") positive offset simply running 0 offset (2wd) wheels will make the tires stick out 2" farther on each side with just stock 7" wheels. Wider wheels will add even more width. Chances of the tires rubbing does increase doing that or spacers. Spacers and 0 offset will look weird. Too much poke.
I'm not a big fan of lifting a truck and putting big tires on it and putting all the additional stress on wheel spacers. You willing to bet your life and the lives of everyone else on the highway with you on those wheel spacers? Also will really increase the load on your wheel bearings. just food for thought.
well the most common 35's i find need at least an 8in wide rim so i will need new rims as well. what im hearing is that 0mm offset rims will gimme the extra spacing that i require for a bigger tire? so i wont need spacer correct? also any comments about the front differential? thanks for the reply
 

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https://www.yukongear.com has 3.08 thru 4.56 ring and pinion sets for 98 up 7.2 front differentials.
Summit carries 4.1 and 4.56 Motive gear sets for them also. Claim to fit 83-2004
 
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Hi everybody. if you've looked at my username you can see i'm new to S10's and that's why i'm here. pretty set in what i want so please don't try and change my mind. so i wanna fit 35's on my 2000 S10 ZR2. Now i have plans for the 2.5" RC lift and a 3" body but i haven't looked much into body lifts. The reason for the body is so i don't have to do as much trimming even if it just saves a little. Next on is gonna be tires and im looking to run some 35" tires and im gonna go ahead and regear it with 4.11 if i can but i cant find any info about the front diff so i can buy gears for it. i can find stuff for the rear diff all day but nothing for the front so any help would be appreciated. also gonna get wheel spacers as well. one more thing this is a project truck and not a daily driver.

Awfully ambitious.

Best way to 35s are 6" suspension and 2" body lift. Unfortunately you run into weak as **** idler arms, tie rods, ball joints. the RC 2.5" will kill your IFS rather quickly, a 5"/6" would help with that but its just not designed to handle 35s. Bad enough on 31s (I would know, I own one).

BTW, there is no official 3" body lift for the 94+ trucks/Blazers. You have to adapt a first gen kit.

Really best route is a solid axle swap if you want anything bigger than 33s.
 

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If you run those 35" tires you will want to re-gear at 4.56 or better yet 4.88 ratio. All ZR2 trucks came stock with 3.73 gears and 31" tires which was not a high enough number gear ratio from the factory. Try and find an iron front differential case to put the gears in for strength too. We are running an iron case with 4.56 gears and 33" tires on our '94 ZR2 truck as the engine seems happiest above 2100 rpm without lugging it too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awfully ambitious.

Best way to 35s are 6" suspension and 2" body lift. Unfortunately you run into weak as **** idler arms, tie rods, ball joints. the RC 2.5" will kill your IFS rather quickly, a 5"/6" would help with that but its just not designed to handle 35s. Bad enough on 31s (I would know, I own one).

BTW, there is no official 3" body lift for the 94+ trucks/Blazers. You have to adapt a first gen kit.

Really best route is a solid axle swap if you want anything bigger than 33s.
Thanks for the reply.
now i wont say that a SAS isnt tempting but id like to leave the truck as stock as possible (for now), well reasonably stock to fit the 35's nothing that isnt absolutely neccessary to change. my reasoning behind the 2.5 RC lift is because it does come with a dropdown for the diff to keep the CV's relatively aligned. and i was looking at the BDS 6" but for the cost and how badly it would change the CV alignment i have decided against it.
 

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This was done with a stock ZR2. Imagine how much better it could look starting with a 6" higher COG.
I point this out only because, as my handle says, been there done it. Mine was a Tudor Blazer. I keep it behind the barn to remind me. A small patch of black ice is all it takes at 30MPH.
335264
 
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What is becoming the norm in the off road world is low center of gravity. Instead of some wacky solid axle swap clearance the body without lifting. Maybe a little less work.

At our ranch we have "huntin buggies" none lifted over stock height with a little taller spring in front to level. Ranch in is big rock deep canyon country and it used to scare the pi** out of everyone to take a 2 inch lifted f250 to some of the spots just knowing it was going to flop on its side. Our buggies are Suzuki sidekicks with tall skinny kevlar tires and skid plates front to back. Have gone to great pains to keep the center of gravity low including moving the battery down and dropping the fuel tanks a couple inches. Low=good :)
 

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I have 35s on my 96 Jimmy. To make them fit I have a 3" body lift, after market keys, 2" lift shackles, a custom rear leaf pack (stock pack + 2 leaves out of a stock k10 suburban rear pack, 2wd rims and lots of trimming.





Front tires rub on the frame at 3/4 steering. I also go through front end parts often. I plan on sas soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have 35s on my 96 Jimmy. To make them fit I have a 3" body lift, after market keys, 2" lift shackles, a custom rear leaf pack (stock pack + 2 leaves out of a stock k10 suburban rear pack, 2wd rims and lots of trimming.





Front tires rub on the frame at 3/4 steering. I also go through front end parts often. I plan on sas soon.
see i like what you've done. and like i've said before this is'nt going to be a daily driver just a weekend trail warrior truck. something to get me out of the house. and if it breaks so be it ill fix it no doubt. good looking truck
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
once again thanks to everyone commenting here. i havent done anything to the truck yet as im still doing my research on what is good/bad, worth it or not worth it. thanks alot guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have 35s on my 96 Jimmy. To make them fit I have a 3" body lift, after market keys, 2" lift shackles, a custom rear leaf pack (stock pack + 2 leaves out of a stock k10 suburban rear pack, 2wd rims and lots of trimming.





Front tires rub on the frame at 3/4 steering. I also go through front end parts often. I plan on sas soon.
also the 2.5" rough country lift i want has a drop down to keep the cv's closer to stock alignment with the diff so hoping to minimize front end problem through that
 

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Yeah if I would have known better I would have went with the rc lift for the diff drop bracket and the upper control arms. I daily mine and beat it on the weekends.
 
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