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· Horsepower Addict
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Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
Yes, that's it. Was factory supplied on some IROC Camaro's & copied frequently in the aftermarket.

I also custom made my bump steer spacers & had to do some extensive mods to get everything to clear the wheels.
347847


I was amazed how bad the factory geometry was... each wheel had 1/4" toe out at full droop. Now it is down to .020"
 

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Yes, that's it. Was factory supplied on some IROC Camaro's & copied frequently in the aftermarket.

I also custom made my bump steer spacers & had to do some extensive mods to get everything to clear the wheels.
View attachment 347847

I was amazed how bad the factory geometry was... each wheel had 1/4" toe out at full droop. Now it is down to .020"
Was that with OEM height lower ball joints, or taller ball joints? From what I've read, the taller lower ball joints are supposed to reduce bump steer.
 

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Not much in the way of progress due to the weather in PA....

I was on the search for an instrument cluster upgrade since neither the tach (6000rpm) nor the speedometer (100mph) had enough range. With the current gears, 6700rpm in 3rd is 103mph.

After a lot of research, I managed to modify a cluster to produce a 200 MPH speedometer, which also required a custom faceplate. Yes, this is my factory cluster.

It took me a lot of time & money (about $600) to develop this, so I will not be sharing my methods... but I may offer to sell the other clusters I am currently testing in the future, if I can make it worth my effort.

Getting a good picture was tough as the camera either washed out the colors or came out grainy. View attachment 347300
That's nice.
 

· Horsepower Addict
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
This engine, while in my Firebird had no problems.

I plan to find out....150mph is only 6100 in 5th gear.

I've seen drag coefficient numbers for S10's between .36 & .42, depending on where you look.
Lowering, ground effects & the tonneau cover should all help.

Worst case, it should only require 300hp to achieve 150mph.
I'm closer to 550 flywheel & plan a trip to the dyno this spring to get some actual numbers.
 

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.36 seems a little optimistic... that's 1st gen Taurus numbers. Flat back window and bed don't really make for a slippery profile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
We finally had some nice weather so it now has about 50mi under it's belt.

The good...
Speedometer & Tach are dead on.
The GPS verified the speed as well using my laptop to check out the tach.

I did some shock adjustments & a slight steering wheel re-centering.
The Viking shocks have a huge adjustment range. I started in the middle for both compression & rebound.
Rebound was a little tight as was the compression. I backed both off 1 notch & it is much more comfortable.
I'm sure it will take a few more rides as I have yet to push it to its limits in a turn.

The springs settled slightly after driving it, so I ended up raising it back up 1/2".
I still have about 1" more rear tire gap than at the front.

The AC is ice cold & the cooling fans now work well since I added the high side pressure sensor to control the fans.

CalTracs are readjusted so it stays straight on launch.

The NT05 tires hook up nicely, but it still barks the tires pretty well going into 3rd.


Items to work out...
I'm a little upset with the turning radius (mainly because I do not want tire marks in my nicely painted frame), but it looks like I can add a slightly thicker spacer (1/8"-3/16" to the front wheels & therefore gain some more turning clearance.

The tune needs a little work as the idle is erratic at some times & slightly lean during abrupt throttle transitions.
At WOT it's dead on.

Tomorrow I'm adding a shift light in the AC vent. I picked up a bright LED bulb that I should be able to see very well when illuminated while still remaining fully hidden.

The brakes are still concerning... they work too well & I would prefer less sensitivity. I may look into a larger bore master cylinder to reduce the line pressure a bit.

The blue gauges & heater controls look good, but the radio still lights up white, so it needs some attention.
Not sure if I should try to install blue LED's or find colored covers for the bulbs.
 

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I'm not sure where, but I hope I wrote down or took a picture of my shock settings. For me - and I only have adjustments on the front - I found that a lower compression and higher rebound made it ride much nicer.

How did you put together your tune?
When I first got the Blazer on the road we used an automatic tune as a starting point and idle was problematic for me too. Once I did the segment swap for a T56 it cleaned things up very nice overall, but the biggest improvement was the idle control.

There is a shift light in the cluster. It should work with the settings in the PCM like the manual trucks did from the factory, but even though I tried to set it up for my truck I've never seen it light up since the swap. Could also bypass all the computer controls and go straight to the bulb.

I believe the radio already has blue covers on the bulbs to soften the warmer incandescent bulb output. You might have to switch to blue LEDs to get the darker blue color in the radio.

Have you added steering stops? Mine have been frame savers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
At first my rebound was too stiff & it almost locked the suspension up. As I loosened it, things improved.
I'm still playing with compression to see how it effects the handling. I'm within 1 click now.
Still firm, but not harsh.

The tune started as a factory 02 Camaro M6 tune.
I think a lot of it is the Fast Throttle body, which may have different idle air flow charactreistics.
It sometimes idles fast when rolling to a stop, but also wants to idle very low after a full throttle run..
Throttle stop screw adjustment was adjusted to the best it can be & TPS reads correctly. I'll start making some adjustments in the upcoming days.

Apparently the shift light on the dash has different settings (through serial communications) I could not it get to work at full throttle, but I have a separate PCM output I'm hard wiring to a light. I used this before on my Firebird with good results.

My radio is bright white... I looked at both blue LED's & bulb covers. Not sure I want to desolder 10 bulbs in the radio to do this. I may consider an aftermarket radio instead since the factory one isn't all that great anyway.

Steering stops are factory UMI ones. It came with 2 different thicknesses. The thin ones were still too thick & I ground them slightly. I will take some more off to get more turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Here are some updates...

The shift light works excellent. I used an 1157 LED bulb & hid it in the AC vent. It comes on at 6500 rpm & otherwise you never know it is there.

My turning radius was similar to a dump truck, so I worked on fixing that.
I added 3mm more wheel spacer thickness to the front to gain additional frame clearance & then ground the spindle steering stops for a few more degrees. This got me almost 1/4 turn additional steering. I have no interference in the front, but everything is very close. I have 2 turns lock to lock now.

I also ran into some issues with rear tire clearance. The rear tire would barely touch the inner bed wheel well on hard cornering. This was due to body roll, not side-to-side sway. I blame that on the fact that I did not have the rear sway bar installed due to a clearance issue with the the large Dana rear. It also wanted to spin the rear inside tire when powering out of a corner. On my local 25mph clover leaf interchange I could enter at 60 & hold about 40 before the rear inside tire was protesting. More throttle would create over steer as both tires started to spin.

I decided to fit a custom rear sway bar since there are no factory offerings to clear the rear housing. I used the factory rear sway bar brackets and links for now, but drilled the lower sleeves for larger bolts. I ended up with a 1-1/8" solid bar which is rather large, but great for drag racing. This substantially reduced the rear body roll & made it very predictable, but I still had issues with traction when rolling into the throttle out of the corner. I gained about 5mph with this change, but predictability was greatly improved.

349219


With the rear now under control, I could still feel the front roll in a hard turn. I already have the ZQ8 front bar which is pretty stout, but I figured a beefier front bar would also help the rear traction by keeping more weight on the inner rear tire. Last night I installed a solid 1.25" front bar from UMI. This worked very well... turn in response is substantially better. I went out & abused the local clover leaf again & it was holding 50mph under power. Adding more power to maintain 55 was causing some rear tire protest but not that bad. I did not push it any further today as it was only in the high 40's out & cold roads are not the best for traction. I'm hoping it warms up in the next few days to get some more accurate results.

The rear bar is adjustable so I can tweak it some more to see what the results are. It is still at the softest setting.

Double adjustable rear shocks are ordered but I will not see them for another few weeks.

Now that I have the engine tuning sorted, I have to concentrate on driving it nicely to see what kind of mileage I can get... so far I'm taking short test runs (under 5 miles) & having too much fun running through the gears. It has ranged between 10 & 11.5mpg on the last few fill ups. It keeps running better as I lean it out, but I'm reluctant to do more until I can test it for signs of knock on a hot day. I'm at 12.9 AFR & 23.5 deg timing, so there is still a little more to gain here.

For anyone here attempting to use a 4" card style MAF sensor, keep in mind the integral air temp sensor is not the correct range for our early style ECM's. It reads approx 20 high which throws off the tuning & also pulls more timing. I ended up using a remote sensor from an 02' Camaro to get the the correct IAT's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I'm getting the urge to take it to the drag strip.
I cannot launch it over 2500 rpm on NT05's, so I picked up some better tires.

M&H slicks 28x10.50-18. I wanted to run matching wheels & not have to worry about rear brake clearance.
Smaller wheels with more sidewall would be better, but I did not want to build a drag truck, with little brakes so I compromised.

350028


Of course, I thought it would be an easy project, but the backside of the wheel was different than the 19's & did not clear the studs on the bolt-on spacers. After an hour of grinding, they finally fit.

You barely notice the size difference unless you are looking for it.

350029


I started playing with tire pressures & shock settings, trying to get it to hook. The rough black top was only good for a mediocre 3600rpm launch. Any higher rpm, it just spun. Initially I was discouraged as it was spinning the tires into second gear, no matter what I did.

I tried another location, still black top, but much smoother. I was rewarded with a solid hook at 4200. After a little more tuning/adjusting, it was doing pretty well leaving at 4900, spinning just a few feet out. I did not get to try any higher launches, but I think there is much more in it.

Sorry, no incriminating videos yet....

Now I'm anxious to get on some concrete to see what I can really put to it.
It is nice knowing, the drive line is built for just about anything I can throw at it.
 

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Can't wait to see what it runs!

Did you get all the drivability issues cleaned up? What are you using for tuning/pcm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Yes it is very drivable & running well. Have about 500 mi on it so far.
I use EFI Live for tuning.

Mileage is currently around 14, primarily on back roads, but I cannot seem to drive it nice for an entire tank.
It got around 16 on the same roads when it was totally stock. If I spend some time on highways, I'm sure it would go up quite a bit.
Street manners are excellent... it pulls hills very well & I can use 6th gear down to around 30mph. It is great not having to shift constantly.

Cooling fans may be slightly undersized as it stays cool while driving or idling, but if you stop moving while its hot, the temperature hangs for a long time & only drops slowly.
They are the fans supplied with the Superior Radiator kit. I could either replace them with a new pair or put a third pusher fan in front of the AC condenser (space permitting)

For anyone wanting a good ignition based 2 step/rev limiter, the Lingenfelter LNC-003 works very well.
I removed the fuel cut limiter from the factory tune & use this exclusively for launch & high rpm now.
I linked the launch limiter with the line lock button, so it is easy to activate.
 

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Yes, that's it. Was factory supplied on some IROC Camaro's & copied frequently in the aftermarket.

I also custom made my bump steer spacers & had to do some extensive mods to get everything to clear the wheels.

I was amazed how bad the factory geometry was... each wheel had 1/4" toe out at full droop. Now it is down to .020"
I'm trying to figure out from your first post of the thread, what's the need for the longer ball joints? Didn't see any explanation or anyone else ask so I'm assuming its general knowledge I just don't know.
 

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I'm trying to figure out from your first post of the thread, what's the need for the longer ball joints? Didn't see any explanation or anyone else ask so I'm assuming its general knowledge I just don't know.
Tall ball joints improve suspension geometry giving more camber gain and the lowers also improve bump steer. They're one of the biggest low hanging fruit when trying to update handling on these trucks.
 
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