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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
I noticed the 4L80E in the pictures... it wasn't until afterwards that I saw how tight it was to the starter area. My starter clears by less than 1/4"

I was not going to accept a smaller size header, so I had no other choice. It did complicate things quite a bit though.

How did your headers fit the floor? Mine was hitting the front pinch weld on pass side, so I lowered the engine a bit by slotting the right mount.
Wanted to pull the engine rearward for more oil pan clearance, but it makes the header hit the floor.

Also if you have the T-56 G-Force transmission cross member, the left side pipe will be very close to touching the top of it. I had to shim it up to give ample clearance with a 3" pipe, unless you let the trans hang lower in the rear. I'm currently 4-5 degrees downward with respect to the frame rail.

Due to all the issues, I'm going to raise the body 1/4" off the frame.
This will give me better trans to floor clearance as well as more rt. side header to floor room.
It also gives me more room from the steering shaft to header tube, which is very close.
I'm hoping I can move the engine back a bit more then also.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
I got my 1/4" spacers made today... It's great to have a friend with a Plasma cutter.
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All went in perfectly.
I can move the engine back a little now & gain some oil pan clearance.
Transmission now clears the floor.
I still have to raise the front bumper to align it but the 1/4" worked out well.
 

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( . Y . )
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978 Posts
I have plenty of clearance between floor and headers. I had bent the pinch weld flange up before I even tried fitting them. Looks like I didn't have to. It could be due to replacing all the body bushings. The old ones had thrown in the towel.

It's super tight near the A-arm's rear bolt and cross shaft, where the headers go under the firewall/floor, maybe 1/8" clearance at the tightest spot. With the cpw poly engine mounts, it should be alright. I'm also worried about heat radiating off the headers and melting or softening the A-arm poly bushing. I'm going to have to come up with some heat shield or something in that area.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
I used the UMI uppers with the rod ends so no issues there.

I mainly used the spacers because my shifter was very close to the floor.
The T-56 magnum has the shifter mounting tilted towards the driver & it puts the rt. side against the floor opening.
The added header clearance was a plus that I don't mind since engine torque can move things a bit.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Progress has been a little slow lately.

I got the engine & trans where I finally want it & the front suspension is all in place now.
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Then I started building the exhaust. I used 304 Stainless, starting with 3" primary pipes tied into a single 3.5" which will all be hidden behind the frame. It will angle down to the factory exit location & be cut flush so it is not visible from outside the vehicle. The Y-pipe was the worst to fit up, but turned out OK, even though my welder was giving me fits.

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The muffler will be custom made which has a 6-8 week lead time so I'll steal the one I have on my Firebird instead of waiting. I went with a quiet chambered style muffler instead of the typical glass packed straight through design.


This weeks project is the wiring harness. More to follow...
 

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LS1 powa!
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2,196 Posts
Very nice job on everything! One thing I regret not adding, is a Vband behind my Y-pipe for easy removal.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I considered putting them on the headers also but didn't.

With luck they will not need to be removed often..
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
Ever wonder what $3K powder coated rear looks like when UPS freight manages to flip it over & rip it halfway off the pallet?

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Fortunately I have a custom diff cover I plan to install, so the other damage is minimal. I also had to drive over 30mi. pick it up at the terminal after they failed to deliver it. I guess that what you get for the bargain price of $225 in shipping. I would have refused it, but I know it would have delayed things another 2 months.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Time for some updates...

I decided to repaint a few items, so in addition to adding a roll pan, I'm re-doing the tonneau cover & tailgate.
The stripes are now painted on & the clear is sanded/buffed so you cannot feel the stripes.

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I also paint matched the calipers in preparation for the new tires/wheels....

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B4U Task Force Admin
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27,728 Posts
I love Indigo Blue...very nice.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Coor matching sucks... there are 6 variations ot that color. Got it on the 3rd try.
A paint store was able to match my stripe color so it looks very much like the factory stripes.

My tonneau is now in primer & it will soon get a custom Xtreme emblem & matching stripes.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
I've been trying to fit some large tires under the truck for quite a while.
Finding a wheel that I like in addition to one that fits the brakes has been a challenge....

I originally wanted an 18" wheel, but most larger sizes in the 305-315 range are typically road race tires or drag race compounds, not to mention, the prices start at approx $300 & up for a "0" tread wear tire.

I started looking at 19's. which have a larger tire selection, for more reasonable prices.
Finding one with a lip is hard to come by. The Billet Specialties "Hydro" caught my eye, but at over $4K a set, I got over it in a hurry.

I settled on a 305/30-19 and/or a 305/35-19 on a 10.5" wheel. I did some mock-ups & they just barely clear.
The Xtreme flares lower the fender openings over 1" from the factory opening, eating up valuable space.
After looking at hundreds of wheels, most would not clear the brakes without a major spacer. The severe offset also eliminated any sort of wheel lip.

I found a 22mm offset with a nice lip that barely works.

These are the 305-30's
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It requires a 12mm spacer to clear the brakes.... unfortunately I could not get a bolt on hub-centric spacer in this width. I ended up buying a 15mm & machined it down to 12mm. I now have .100" spoke to caliper clearance, which is the minimum I would ever run.

I'm waiting for the larger rears to show up, but they clear on all 4 corners....

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Not yet.... I currently have too much stuff around the truck to get a good side picture.
 

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Horsepower Addict
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190 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I finally got the exhaust finished. Dual 3" into a 3.5" in polished 304 SS.

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I'm glad the exhaust is finally done, cutting & welding stainless was testing my patience. Next is getting the fuel system installed.
 
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