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Today while out in the barn I remembered your question and tried a 1/2x20 inverted flare brake line fitting in the hole and that's what it is.

Here's what you want. $6.64 each when you buy 2 + $4 shipping.
You can call them at
302 654 1150 if you want to talk to them or request a different color.
 
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so i can do the tranny cooler only or i can do both i can’t just use the radiator for everything? btw thanks for the help man, i’m trying to understand/learn/do everything to get my car done as fast as i can on a budget.
I ran the Corvette radiator with a separate cooler, then into the radiator. There are times when the radiator heats the trans oil to help with warm up.
 

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Hey so i have a s10 v8 radiator/ 80-90 corvette radiator and i need to find the fitting size so i can use 6AN lines for tranny lines. anyone got a sure way to measure what size fitting and thread pattern it’d be?
I also have that radiator but it doesn’t fit into the front clip. Especially when you have the A/C cooler in the clip as well
 

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A V8 is 4-1/4" longer than a V6. You have to make room some how.
You need to move the A/C condenser as far forward as possible. That may require modifying the hood latch brace. Then you need to cut out the radiator support where needed to recess the radiator into the support.
Do a search in the V8 section as this has been documented many times. There is no cut and dried how to because everyone's skill level and tool availability is different. I primarily use a cutoff wheel, die grinder, and sometimes a sharp chisel in the corners. Be sure to take a good file and smooth all the edges and corners. Lot easier to see what your doing when there isn't blood every where.
Access to a plasma cutter would make it an easy job.
You'll also have to come up with some sort of upper and lower rubber mounts for the rad. If you bolt one in solid it'll soon crack some where.
 
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Thank you, thought maybe I was going nuts. Already addressed the possibility of modifying the top portion of the front clip.
A V8 is 4-1/4" longer than a V6. You have to make room some how.
You need to move the A/C condenser as far forward as possible. That may require modifying the hood latch brace. Then you need to cut out the radiator support where needed to recess the radiator into the support.
Do a search in the V8 section as this has been documented many times. There is no cut and dried how to because everyone's skill level and tool availability is different. I primarily use a cutoff wheel, die grinder, and sometimes a sharp chisel in the corners. Be sure to take a good file and smooth all the edges and corners. Lot easier to see what your doing when there isn't blood every where.
Access to a plasma cutter would make it an easy job.
You'll also have to come up with some sort of upper and lower rubber mounts for the rad. If you bolt one in solid it'll soon crack some where.
A V8 is 4-1/4" longer than a V6. You have to make room some how.
You need to move the A/C condenser as far forward as possible. That may require modifying the hood latch brace. Then you need to cut out the radiator support where needed to recess the radiator into the support.
Do a search in the V8 section as this has been documented many times. There is no cut and dried how to because everyone's skill level and tool availability is different. I primarily use a cutoff wheel, die grinder, and sometimes a sharp chisel in the corners. Be sure to take a good file and smooth all the edges and corners. Lot easier to see what your doing when there isn't blood every where.
Access to a plasma cutter would make it an easy job.
You'll also have to come up with some sort of upper and lower rubber mounts for the rad. If you bolt one in solid it'll soon crack some where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
So you’re saying no matter what i’m gonna have to cut the core support? i got my motor sitting up in there with no clip and the tranny x member isn’t quite in the right spot but when i mock up the radiator in the core support it has like an inch. and that’s with studs on the front of it aaaand still got the stock shifter linkage tab on the steering shaft. idk if it’ll work but we gonna try it and if not i think a b&m might have to be in my budget.
 

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Yes that’s right. I worked on my front clip all day getting the A/C condenser, power steering cooler, corvette radiator with tranny cooler, and I will go to junk yard and get that skinny oil cooler tower on the 97-99 Silverado’s 5.3 & 5.7 QUOTE="JustinR229, post: 12291315, member: 436138"]
So you’re saying no matter what i’m gonna have to cut the core support? i got my motor sitting up in there with no clip and the tranny x member isn’t quite in the right spot but when i mock up the radiator in the core support it has like an inch. and that’s with studs on the front of it aaaand still got the stock shifter linkage tab on the steering shaft. idk if it’ll work but we gonna try it and if not i think a b&m might have to be in my budget.
[/QUOTE]
 

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You can get a fan, electric or engine driven in a inch. Some guys used pushers in front of the rad, but they're pretty inefficient. I've tried it.
 

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I have the Taurus fan that was recommended to use in my application. Now that I made several modifications to my front clip I think I could get away with clutch fan. The fan was recommended because of the reduced size of the corvette radiator used in this swap.
You can get a fan, electric or engine driven in a inch. Some guys used pushers in front of the rad, but they're pretty inefficient. I've tried it.
You can get a fan, electric or engine driven in a inch. Some guys used pushers in front of the rad, but they're pretty inefficient. I've tried it.
 

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Oops, I didn't proof read my previous post very well it was supposed to say you can NOT get a fan in a 1 inch space. Sorry.
 

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One trick I forgot to mention that will increase the distance from the water pump to the rad is to use a 84-91Corvette water pump. It's 3/4" shorter than the truck pump. They aren't very expensive. The trick is to use a Mercury Marine pulley on that pump. The combo allows you to gain the 3/4" w/o having to move any of the other accessories or belt.
If you look at the original truck pulley you will see that it stick out a ways past the belt for no reason. The C4 pump and marine pulley eliminate that waste of space.
 
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I thought I read int on the JTR site that there was a Ford clutch fan assembly that was about an inch thiner than the gm part.
 

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One trick I forgot to mention that will increase the distance from the water pump to the rad is to use a 84-91Corvette water pump. It's 3/4" shorter than the truck pump. They aren't very expensive. The trick is to use a Mercury Marine pulley on that pump. The combo allows you to gain the 3/4" w/o having to move any of the other accessories or belt.
If you look at the original truck pulley you will see that it stick out a ways past the belt for no reason. The C4 pump and marine pulley eliminate that waste of space.
Now that is a good piece of advice thank you..
 

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One trick I forgot to mention that will increase the distance from the water pump to the rad is to use a 84-91Corvette water pump. It's 3/4" shorter than the truck pump. They aren't very expensive. The trick is to use a Mercury Marine pulley on that pump. The combo allows you to gain the 3/4" w/o having to move any of the other accessories or belt.
If you look at the original truck pulley you will see that it stick out a ways past the belt for no reason. The C4 pump and marine pulley eliminate that waste of space.
Thank you for the links. I am having trouble finding the right pump when comparing it to the pump I have currently on it Amazon.com: ACDelco Professional 252-711 Water Pump Kit : Automotive .The two extra ports are for the heater correct? Did you tie the heater hoses into the returnand supply off the radiator? The pully looks like it will work for sure thank you.
 

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That is not the right pump. that is a standard S10 water pump. You want one for a Corvette from 84-91 with a 5.7 TPI engine. Not one for a DOHC engine.
As a forum member you also get a 5% discount from Rockauto.
Don't buy car parts from Amazon. You never know if you'll get what the ad shows or says. Many times they will say it's Genuine GM and arrive in a rice paper box with a misspelled fake GM label. Then if it will even bolt up it'll likely leak and/or squeal.
Amazon's auto parts warehouse:
Automotive tire Nature Wood Pollution Scrap
 

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The link I provided fits the 97 CK1500 5.7L and that is what came off the motor and that is what is on there now. The Rock auto pum will require me to cut into the radiator hoses to route the heater hoses into system, is that correct? It appears that way to me. The Amazon tip was good. I usally get the parts from a American business that is selling on Amazon. But I have seen what you're talking about.
That is not the right pump. that is a standard S10 water pump. You want one for a Corvette from 84-91 with a 5.7 TPI engine. Not one for a DOHC engine.
As a forum member you also get a 5% discount from Rockauto.
Don't buy car parts from Amazon. You never know if you'll get what the ad shows or says. Many times they will say it's Genuine GM and arrive in a rice paper box with a misspelled fake GM label. Then if it will even bolt up it'll likely leak and/or squeal.
Amazon's auto parts warehouse:
View attachment 353786
 

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Great pics!
The whole point in the Corvette pump is that it is shorter. It's the only pump for a SBC that is.
Unless you can find an early 60's short pump and accessories, which 60 years later are rare and expensive. Only restorers can afford them. Besides they use the old V belts. I used that setup on the 454 I put in a 1st gen 20+ years ago.
On my 98 ZR2 S10, which I put a stroked version of your engine into, I had to put a Tee into one of the heater hoses so the water had flow to and from the heater. No need to cut into a radiator hose. Although it can be done that way.
Before the LS craze started everybody swapping was using the Corvette pumps. Kind of been forgotten about these days. There were many posts about how to on V8S10.com which has unfortunately passed into history.
The biggest difference as you can see in the pics above is that snout for the screw on fan is eliminated. You can not just cut the threads off because the flange for the pulley is pressed on to it.
 
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