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· Professional Insultant
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Ideas on what size tubbing I should use to redo the tc cross member
Well the frame of the truck is just under 1/8, so that should be fine to use, that is equivalent to 10 gauge, or you could be a bit thicker with 3/16.


As for the diameter of the tube I'd probably pick 1.5"
 

· jax4x4.com
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Ideas on what size tubbing I should use to redo the tc cross member
I used 1/8 wall square stock on my S10 and .125 DOM tubing on my toyota cross member.
 

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Ok need help at a loss have a Dana 30 have the Astro box and drop pitman arm I know the arm is in right position when the truck is in the air turns all the right and left when it's on the ground and has all it's weight it will turn right all the way but not left
 

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So apparently my drag link is about. 1-1 1/2 inches to long steering wheel turned all the way to the right and wheels turned all the way to the right the drag link goes past the pitman arm about 1 inch
 

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First thing to come to mind is, did you address the vacuum that comes and goes from the 233 in stock form?

I bought a plug at napa to fill the hole for the vacuum switch, and traced all those hoses to their source and eliminated them. There is a vacuum ball inside the drivers side fender.
 

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Iron steering knuckles

Hi all,


Bit of a lame question regarding WJ steering knuckles, I want to do the WJ large calliper conversion on my XJ D30 axle but in this part of the world the callipers are all right hand drive which means the drag link will be about a foot long :surprise: this may give a new definition to bump steer!
All the suppliers I use such as Summit and Rockauto only sell Crown Automotive type knuckles that are cast iron, am I right in thinking that the original units are cast steel? I don't want to put a welding torch anywhere near cast iron.


I'm guessing I'll have to track down a US based car breaking yard willing to ship to the UK? Once upon a time we had many US junk yards over here when the US air bases were in full swing but sadly those days are gone.
 

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Erm...I meant to say all the knuckles in this part of the world are right hand drive.
I might just buy the passenger side (right hand) knuckle from the US and a UK knuckle on the driver side.

I'm kind of thinking about machining a pair of adapters with a recess to envelop the mounting face of the knuckles or weld a flange around the perimeter of a standard steel spacer to save welding the iron knuckle(s). As I haven't seen this done before there's likely to be a good reason not to do it.
 

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OK, from the sound of the tumbleweed blowing I deduce that all knuckles OEM and aftermarket are cast iron and that everyone is welding these without issue.


I can get a pair of crown knuckles shipped from Spain for about $400.


I assume the same knuckles are used for both Teves and Akebono calipers
 
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