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98 2.2 Extended cab, 2001 V6 Extended cab Sport Suspension, 2001 V6 Extended Cab 4x4
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I would love to leave it stock but for 4000 just to rebuild an engine isn't in my budget. I picked up the roller s10 for 200 and 300 for the engine and trans so I thought it was a steal so thats what I'm dealing with. I didn't know how much of a big deal 2x4 vs 4x4 was on these s10s if I have to modify things I will. im a pretty good fabricator but like I said before I would like to know what problems I might have with the firewall and trunk before I start swapping the body
$4000 for what part of the rebuild? If it's for the entire job, that's about average for the work, but if it's just parts and machine work then I understand why you would not want to.

As for the frame work, I agree with others that a 2wd chassis would be best, but this is not out of the realm of working. The key will be how well the S10 chassis will fit the contours of the Plymouth body. Older frames were fairly flat compared to more modern ones. As for the on and off aspect, and the firewall issues that is going to depend mostly on your skills. If you are good, you can make some measurements from the stock frame, and fab what is needed on the S10 frame and do it once. But most likely it would take a couple tries with the engine out and again with the engine in to make it all work out. Have you measured the wheel base to see if the S10 frame is going to be both long and wide enough? That's where I would start.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
4000$ just for the engine rebuild and machining the wheel base and width is correct after I shortened it 4 inches. I have no problem refabing the trunk for the hump but engine placement is going to be tough
 

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I'm in the middle of a similar swap. It does not work well on a 4x4 S10 chassis. The frame swaps are all done on a 2WD S10 frame. The frame and front suspension are completely different. Don't worry too much about the wheelbase, as the 2WD S10 frames are easily lengthened or shortened at the factory seam.
 

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I'm taking a 305 with a th350 and putting it on a 2000 s10 with 4x4 but I took the front diff out. I will be putting a 50 plymouth special deluxe body on it. My question is there anyone out there that has done this with similar years and what do I need to do to avoid problems when swapping because I don't want to take this thing off and on 15 times any advice will be greatly appreciated

I've done 6 different V8/S10 swaps, one of which was a 4 X 4 on extended cab 1st gen, the rest were a 2 wd. By far doing a 4 x 4 is a bid more time consuming. In all the swaps that I've done one of the most important thing is the clearance (fan/motor) to get proper cooling without having to add fans or going with just an electric fan. There's a book that came out years ago on S10 conversions with alot of helpful pointers and part numbers, I'll look for it and post it later, has some great hints..
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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I've done 6 different V8/S10 swaps, one of which was a 4 X 4 on extended cab 1st gen, the rest were a 2 wd. By far doing a 4 x 4 is a bid more time consuming. In all the swaps that I've done one of the most important thing is the clearance (fan/motor) to get proper cooling without having to add fans or going with just an electric fan. There's a book that came out years ago on S10 conversions with alot of helpful pointers and part numbers, I'll look for it and post it later, has some great hints..
Jags That Run??...kinda outdated, but some useful info.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Ya I just wanted to try and get my great grandpas car going again I have plenty of automotive and welding and fab skills just no direction. View attachment 348918
My dad had a 1951 Studebaker Commander that’s been in the basement since 1974. My direction was to cut it up and drop it on a donor frame, but it’s been in my family since 195X so I figure it’s time to start it and drive it under its own power as is. It was just parked. Nothing wrong. Just parked.
 

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FLORIDA BUTCH
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71 Posts
The most important thing is matching the wheel base. And the measurement of the center of the rear wheel to the fire wall. The frame's original firewall, must match the firewall of the Plymouth.
To make that match, the S10 frame must be cut, [or lengthened} from the area of the s10 frame that would sit right under the original body's door. Then that will make the measurement from the rear wheel center to firewall match both vehicles.
The first Generation S10, {or 2nd Generation I can't remember which} was riveted together , right at the spot under the door. Others would then lengthen or shorten the frame just by taking the rivets out, and welding the 2 pieces back together, after matching the wheel base of the new body.
If you don't have the riveted frame, and it is cut, the cut must be a z cut for the strength to be maintained. I would also fishplate it just to be safe.
 

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No rivets, all the S10 frames are welded at the factory seam. There are plenty of premade "kits" out there for lengthening and shortening the frame of the S10. Code 504 has plenty of kits and videos available on the subject.

Right now I am putting a 1951 chevy 3600 longbed body on a 1989 S10 extended cab chassis. The wheelbase on the S10 is 2.5" short so, I will be adding 2.5" to the WB of the S10. The S10 is also approximately 4"-5" narrower as well. 2" wheel spacers will be needed at the front wheels on the 2wd S10 and the most common fix at the rear is to use a 4WD S10 rear end, which is wider than the 2WD rear end.
 

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Been there Done it
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That's where most S10 pickup frames are used and work well. Under other pickup trucks.
 

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I'm taking a 305 with a th350 and putting it on a 2000 s10 with 4x4 but I took the front diff out. I will be putting a 50 plymouth special deluxe body on it. My question is there anyone out there that has done this with similar years and what do I need to do to avoid problems when swapping because I don't want to take this thing off and on 15 times any advice will be greatly appreciated
You need to start with the wheel base 1st.
 

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$4000 for what part of the rebuild? If it's for the entire job, that's about average for the work, but if it's just parts and machine work then I understand why you would not want to.

As for the frame work, I agree with others that a 2wd chassis would be best, but this is not out of the realm of working. The key will be how well the S10 chassis will fit the contours of the Plymouth body. Older frames were fairly flat compared to more modern ones. As for the on and off aspect, and the firewall issues that is going to depend mostly on your skills. If you are good, you can make some measurements from the stock frame, and fab what is needed on the S10 frame and do it once. But most likely it would take a couple tries with the engine out and again with the engine in to make it all work out. Have you measured the wheel base to see if the S10 frame is going to be both long and wide enough? That's where I would start.
Listen to what this man is saying. He is right. He is giving you the best way to accomplish what you want to end up with. I would do like he is suggesting. There is a hard way that I see people are saying on here and there is better. And more understanding way. Just take your time ,don't think about it being hard (think of it as more knowledge. I believe if you run into any issues that this man would be more to point you in the right direction
 

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Listen to what this man is saying. He is right. He is giving you the best way to accomplish what you want to end up with. I would do like he is suggesting. There is a hard way that I see people are saying on here and there is better. And more understanding way. Just take your time ,don't think about it being hard (think of it as more knowledge. I believe if you run into any issues that this man would be more to point you in the right direction
jdirection just remember just because what you see that looks like they have the right answer don't mean they are always correct. Think wise bud.
 
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