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Discussion Starter #1
well, i havent seen many photos like this, so i'm taking video and photos with step by step problems i encounter.

for Dec.1, 2001 here are the shots!
you can drewl now....

so, lets see more then just an underhood shot of the s-10's with V8's!!!

let it ride!
chris[pixelmonkey]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
proflo'dS10 said:
He he. OK. Here you go, Pixel:
BUT!... it seems that your s-10 is no longer in commission. hehehe:D

get the tyvada running!
chris
 

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I'm working on the Bravada tonight and tomorrow after I get back from Kansas City. I have the wildside apart still because the guy on Ebay still hasn't sent the deposit. I was going to build the engine and trans exactly as he wanted but now it seems he is out of money and can't get a loan.

By the way........You picked those roller rockers up Saturday......What's your delay?:D Once you get the hot rod running you need to bring it to the lake so I can check it out. We can go out and eat or something. Obviously, I'll be driving "The Beater"

Let me know if you are up and going yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
lets bring an old thread back to the top.

when this started, I was preparing to move to oklahoma to finish a BA/BS.

since then, ring, dogs, house and a few other vehicles have happened.



BUT... waiting on jack stands has been this truck.
and now that the $ is available to actually work on things, its having a few things change.

since the thread started, the truck was driven less than 1,000 miles. within the first 100 miles the speedo cable broke, so no odometer readings. On the trucks last self propelled journey, the saginaw 4 speed went BOOM and bled out before sitting a few years on jack stands.

fast forward a few more years and it's trailered +9 hours to my home and... put up on jack stands. It's been there for the last 3 and the passengers seat has been catching a few new parts every year.

with the help of a local hot rod guru, we tore into a muncie 4 speed i acquired over a year ago. complete rebuild photos here

so now that the transmission is complete, it's time for a few more things to happen.
next post includes the list.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
have my list ready for the next few weekends. hope the weather works with me and stays warm enough!


to pull motor
- clear work bench
- clear garage floor

- remove hood
- unbolt exhaust from headers
- unbolt headers from heads
- remove steering line
- remove headers
- disconnect wires
- disconnect fuel lines
- remove carburetor
- remove distributor
- drain antifreeze
- remove cooling lines
- remove remote oil filter plate lines
- remove radiator with fans
- install lift plate on intake
- anchor to engine hoist
- remove motor mount bolts
- lift motor out
- remove bell housing
- bolt motor to stand
- drain oil


Motor work
- remove oil pan and inspect.
- remove oil pump
- install new high volume / high pressure oil pump
- remove water pump
- remove timing cover
- remove timing chain & top gear
- use puller to remove bottom timing gear
- remove valve covers
- remove rocker arms
- remove push rods
- remove lifters
- remove cam shaft
- install new cam shaft
- install new lifters
- install new push rods
- install & adjust rocker arms
- install gear driven timing gear on bottom
- install timing gear on cam *top
- install *mid* gears
- install timing cover
- install water pump
- install low wire looms for plug wires
- re-route plug wires


Under hood
- roll truck into drive and degrease and pressure wash
- clean and inspect power brake booster
- install brake booster.
- bleed brakes
- mount aluminum channel for radiator
- cut core support for radiator location
- fit radiator
- install rubber padding for radiator
- install top keepers for radiator
- install radiator
- plan route for new wires to radiator fans
- cut & install new wiring with shrink tube joints
- re-locate fuel pressure regulator
- re-route fuel lines
- move battery tray & relocate battery to in-bed box
- measure new battery cable lengths
*auto parts store for new battery cables
- install new cables
- install clutch master
-



In Cab
- remove main gauge bezel
- remove speedometer
- remove speedometer cable
*auto parts store for new cable of correct length*
- install new cable
- install gauges and dash bezel



Clutch setup
- lift motor with hoist
- remove engine stand from back of motor
- install hydro throw out bearing
- install bell housing
- install transmission
- check spacing on clutch pressure plate and hydro throw out
- unbolt transmission


Getting things together
- install new poly motor mounts
- install motor
- install transmission
- install headers
- install steering line
- install transmission
- install shifter
- bolt exhaust to headers
- install power steering bracket & pump
- install bracket & alternator
- wire alternator
- remove hoist plate from intake
- install distributor
- connect spark plugs
- install no2 plate
- install carburetor
- install carburetor linkage
- connect fuel line
- connect throttle cable
- connect power brake vacuum line
- measure for power steering lines
- cut/ crimp & install power steering lines
- fill power steering reservoir & lines
- measure hydro clutch lines
- cut / crimp & install hydro clutch lines
- fill reservoir and bleed clutch
- install radiator hoses
- fill radiator * block with 50/50 water antifreeze
- measure for cross member modifications
- remove cross member
- weld plates to cross member for new tail housing height
- install poly urethane tail housing support
- install tail housing cross member support
- install drive shaft
- fill transmission with 90w fluid
- fill motor & filter with oil
- purge fuel system
- start truck until temp reaches 185 & thermostat opens
- top off radiator
- check oil & top off if needed
- check braking system
- *on jack stands* check shifting & speedo
- weld in license plate support for roll pan
- cut exhaust for 3rd muffler
- weld in 3rd muffler
- weld turn-down tips to exhaust *dump at rear axel


TEST DRIVE!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
something caught my attention last night. it appears the door pin and bushing on the drivers side top have crapped out again. I didnt think it had been used much in the last decade, but apparently waiting on jack stands will wear down the bushing.

i'm going to check with FAG to see what axel type bearings they have that would be close to the size needed for the door pins. this will not be something someone can do in an afternoon with hand tools. I just want to be sure the body line and door alignment stay true.

admins, can you move this thread to member projects?
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Damn, talk about antique transmissions. I heard those linkages can give you problems too. What caused the mainshaft to shift the way it did? Hooray for V8 S10's tho! Get that thing back on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the saginaw wasnt designed to handle much power or abuse.

the "new" transmission is a 4 speed muncie from a 68 corvette.

negative on the linkage problems. all parts are hurst and the new transmission should shift great.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thought a few images would be good, as the link in the first post is long gone.

these photos were taken in 1998
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
a few shots of the dash. I have a "wanted" thread for an ash tray and metal bracket / cradle posted. hope to find a gray one as the fuel gauge will be moved to a single a-pillar mount. *going to need to find that as well.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the make-shift alternator bracket and stock 2.5 alternator are gone.

the center console will likely be modified a bit. I believe the forward mount location of the shifter on the new transmission will bring the shifter 2" closer to the dash. will likely have to cut a bit on the floor for clearance.

motor shot... end of december 2001
interior shot... sometime in 2003 i think

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
first time the truck was started in a few years... march 2011

playing with some of the paint on the hood. before & after shots.

the multi-color stripes are LONG gone. the tailgate in the 1998 photos rusted to destruction when the swap started in 2001. just picked up an un-rusted tailgate tonight for $30 happy about that. planning to order the flip kit for the latch and blank sheet skin for the tailgate this summer.

oooo.... and thinking i'll go with a BMW true black on the full body.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
did a quick search on craigslist today. seems zq8 returns colorado trucks and a s-10 bumper in red.

BUT....


i did see something i liked for $200


now i can pull the drum rear and sell it, along with selling the rear from a 4th gen camaro that i've had in the bed for the last decade.
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
for the exhaust and links, removing the fuel tank.

fuel cell behind the rear end, and to keep things functional, moving the neck and door back.

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 

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