Yes, Let Us Know.
IIRC it took a couple of weeks to get the lines, But then again, Covid was ruining alot of business.
I think everyone here would love the feedback.
Good Luck
I did receive the fuel lines, last week. They are an exact fit. Also came with a filter. I was worried there might not be enough room to fit the new lines in between the frame and the cab. But this was not a problem. It just took a little wiggling around to get the new lines in place.
I lifted the bed up, dump-truck style, but kept the rear bumper attached. The bed rested on the bumper and some 6" wood blocks I placed between the bed and frame. This allowed just enough access to disconnect old lines and install the new lines. Also jacked up the left side of the truck to work underneath.
One issue that had me stuck, was the old lines got rusted at the ends. The end of the metal lines plug into plastic quick-connect hoses. Rust builds up, in between the metal and plastic connector. Rust expands and locks the old metal line to the plastic connector.
I cleaned out as much rust and dirt as possible from the plastic quick-connects, using dental picks, etc. Cut the old metal line and removed the plastic hoses from the fuel tank. The end of the old metal line was still stuck to the plastic connector. I found depressing the plastic locking tabs and then rotating the metal line while pulling out, is what finally freed the metal line from plastic connector. As the metal line was freed, a yellow O-ring popped out (don't lose it!!) There is also a black, plastic, guide/sleeve/retainer thing that remained stuck to the end of the metal line. The black sleeve is stuck by rust that grew under it.
If the plastic lines are being reused, these small parts needed to be salvaged. I soaked the old line ends overnight in navel jelly. That removed visible rust, but couldn't penetrate between the plastic sleeve and metal line. This is like an interference fit. Hard to describe, but basically, like how to remove/install a bearing from a shaft, except a small plastic ring instead of a bearing. I don't have a press, but instead used a hammer (carefully.) I could post more detail about this if anyone wants.
Its easiest if the small parts are then installed back to the plastic quick-connect fittings. Yellow O-ring goes in first. The black plastic sleeve goes in last. The plastic sleeve is designed to snap in place and takes some force to insert. I used the blunt end of a drill bit to press the sleeve back into the plastic fitting. The drill bit had the same diameter as the plastic sleeve.
OK, post is getting long. Overall, I think installing pre-made, metal lines is straight forward. It has the advantage of not buying expensive tools or trying to cobble together something with compression fittings. Only thing was, I didn't expect the metal lines to be fused to the plastic quick-connect fittings. (not so quick in my case.) I think these complications add to the argument in favor of ripping it all out and replace the lines from end-to-end, with nylon or whatever is most convenient.
One more related thing to mention. The EVAP line runs parallel to the fuel lines. A few years ago, I was getting engine code P0440, frequently. Finally tracked it down to... guess what? Rusted out EVAP line. Back then, I by-passed the rusted EVAP line with rubber fuel hose. 5/16" ID. I think using rubber fuel hose on EVAP line is OK, it is mostly just air under moderate vacuum.
