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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I got problems....... Here's the scoop:

1) Check engine light has been coming on for about 3 years off and on but never stays on, sometimes stays off for weeks. When it comes on, stays on for 2 minutes to 5 minutes.
2) Truck surges, fuel pump is ok. Surging is periodic, random, never does it when a mechanic checks it. Most of the time on going up a hill, sometimes on the straight away.
3)Rough idle at stop lights. Doesn't appear to be rough while driving or when in Park. Seems to get worse the longer you are at a the stop light. Sometimes feels like it comes from underneath (feel it in the floorboard). Sometimes it feels like it comes from under the hood (feel it in your ears and hands and see the hood shimmy)
4) I have had it checked and it won't surge for the mechanic.
Mechanic can't seem to find a reason for the surge.
5) Had diagnostics run for the check engine light and they replaced the oxygen sensor but didn't help anything. STill surges and still has a rough idle.

HELP if you can............. sure would appreciate your input. I love my S-10.

BarteeRose
 

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The Original A D M I N
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18,797 Posts
Hey bartee did you get your shit fixed yet? Probably not. Ohh well. Enjoy your pathetic little squirrel-hole life. Hope to see you in chat again. :rolleyes:
 

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Super Moderator
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ok, when engine light comes on, take it to auto zone immediately n they'll check the code for ya, cud be other sensors relatin to fuel
 

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Hardcore Style
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1,118 Posts
LunaticSVT said:
Hey bartee did you get your shit fixed yet? Probably not. Ohh well. Enjoy your pathetic little squirrel-hole life. Hope to see you in chat again. :rolleyes:
did i miss something? or are you just an @$$#o!3 :ahole:

-Rantz
 

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hatetheblazer
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537 Posts
BarteeRose said:
Hi!

I got problems....... Here's the scoop:

1) Check engine light has been coming on for about 3 years off and on but never stays on, sometimes stays off for weeks. When it comes on, stays on for 2 minutes to 5 minutes.
2) Truck surges, fuel pump is ok. Surging is periodic, random, never does it when a mechanic checks it. Most of the time on going up a hill, sometimes on the straight away.
3)Rough idle at stop lights. Doesn't appear to be rough while driving or when in Park. Seems to get worse the longer you are at a the stop light. Sometimes feels like it comes from underneath (feel it in the floorboard). Sometimes it feels like it comes from under the hood (feel it in your ears and hands and see the hood shimmy)
4) I have had it checked and it won't surge for the mechanic.
Mechanic can't seem to find a reason for the surge.
5) Had diagnostics run for the check engine light and they replaced the oxygen sensor but didn't help anything. STill surges and still has a rough idle.

HELP if you can............. sure would appreciate your input. I love my S-10.

BarteeRose
2 year old thread, I know...yada yada yada yada yada yada , bla bla bla bla bla bla bla...everyone will start firing at my ass :boom: ...I don't care :madfinger ...I want to solve my problem in any possible way...

Did a search on a shaking problem I have and BarteeRose had similar problems to my truck...
If you are still a member, of the forum, would you by any chance remember wtf you did to eliminate this problem? Or anybody, please help me...
I am freaking desperate with the same problem and have so far tuned-up completely the freaking car...

Sorry to be rude guys, it's just that there are some members that they only start talking crap instead of giving you hand...
 

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my hoopty
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1,947 Posts
possibly the egr valve hanging open? will cause rough idle, but will run good at higher rpms. also, the IAC valve and throttle body should be cleaned. IAC = idle air control
 

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hatetheblazer
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537 Posts
5timedime said:
possibly the egr valve hanging open? will cause rough idle, but will run good at higher rpms. also, the IAC valve and throttle body should be cleaned. IAC = idle air control
Yesterday I cleaned the heck outta the IAC and checked the EGR and still shakes like hell...
I am out of ideas...
 

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hatetheblazer
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537 Posts
also cleaned the throttle body...it was clogged...runs way better now but still shakes a bunch...
02 sensor prolly?
 

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Try the tap test, take the handle end of a medium size screwdriver and tap on the computor. Could be a bad solder conection on a board in the computor it self.
 

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my hoopty
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lovetheblazer said:
also cleaned the throttle body...it was clogged...runs way better now but still shakes a bunch...
02 sensor prolly?
oxygen sensors are over-rated. they can't really cause many problems unless they just completely die, and they rarely fail. i would check for vacuum leaks next. just spray some tb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hoses and if it idles up, then you found your leak. also, how did you check the egr?
 

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1. you could have a vacuum leak around th ethrottle body. take some air intake cleaner or some type of aerosol and spray around the throttle body house and vacuum lines and intake housing.

2. check and make sure you do not have a fouled plug and/ or an arching wire. also check your firing order.

3. make sure the pcv valve is not clogged
 

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S-10 Off-Road Driver
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wether or not your light is on or not, the code will be stored in the computer, I'm not sure if Auto Zone can retrive saved codes but most auto repair shops with odb II computers can
 

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egr or iac is the right track. the egr is a notorious problem for the 4.3 for the past 15 years. especially if u have the electronis one. what sux the most is how expensive they are. and auot zone , murrays, advanced have loaner tools. they have the obd2s in their loaners. ud have to run the machine urself, but its very easy to do. a blind chimp could figure it out. if u cant handle an obd tool, sell ur tools on e-bay and take it to an honest mechanic (if u can actually find one).
 

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samueljackson said:
egr or iac is the right track. the egr is a notorious problem for the 4.3 for the past 15 years. especially if u have the electronis one. what sux the most is how expensive they are. and auot zone , murrays, advanced have loaner tools. they have the obd2s in their loaners. ud have to run the machine urself, but its very easy to do. a blind chimp could figure it out. if u cant handle an obd tool, sell ur tools on e-bay and take it to an honest mechanic (if u can actually find one).

bud you are on the right track with the egr valve but shut your piehole about honest mechanics as i can speak for some of us on this forum we take just as much pride to help bonehead backyard wannabe's fix there pathetics screwups and sometime for free so before you knock a tech remember you may need one soon!
 

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dont take offense to my comment about mechanics. there are honest ones out there. if u are one, then more props to you. just a fact that many are dishonest pieces of shit. thats all.
 

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Any advanced auto or autozone should have the obd scanner to tell you the code that would be your best hint as to the problem

im just guessing but it sounds like an egr problem

you can test the egr with a vac pump apply vac and the diaphram should move you will see or hear it move if not its either clogged or stuck or just broken. if you replace it make sure its not a two piece setup, ive not seen the newer 2.2's but mine is an egr and egr selenoid they are two diff parts and need to be changed as a set its a good idea to change or clean the emmisions tube between them.

I had a similar problem and i scaned the truck and it was indeed the oxy sensor. when the light goes on and off like that its the oxygen sensor. Just go to the auto parts store and check it anytime even if the light is off the ecu should have stored the trouble code. Shortly after i fixed the oxy sensor it threw another code and had a similar idle problem, it ended up being the egr.


the pcv is on the front of the valve cover or closest to the radiator on the passenger side you have to unscrew a star shaped phonelic err plastic whatever screw and inside was my pcv

anyhow good luck
 
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