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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

If you are active members of the forum then you might remember I was trying to sell my truck. Well, I’m not having any luck so now I’m driving it back to California. Im driving an 83 S-10 2.8 v6. Here’s a list of things I’m planning to change before I leave.

spark plugs
Wires
Top off all fluids
Belts
Grease stuff

My first questions is for the grease. I’m gonna get a grease gun and do the front end. Does anyone know where the little nipples you fill from are or how many I should be looking for? I have a photo from an 2000 blazer below.
342A792D-47AB-4221-BA1A-4CD2FE81645C.png


I guess, is there anything else I should check?

I’ll post photos. I’m just waiting for the parts store to open.

thanks in advance,
Yowakawaka
 

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B4U Task Force Admin
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Check your U-joints for zerks.
 

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Zerk fitting...the little thing you put the grease in.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I got a grease gun and a tube of grease and filled them. Two of them were cracked so the grease just leaked out.
6E65ED15-AEA2-440B-AC6E-4C49999B2103.jpeg

the same one on the other side did the same thing.
Other than that, I topped off all the fluids. The tranny fluid was a little low but that’s it. I didn’t end up doing new spark plugs and wires or belts.

I ended up packing up and leaving shortly after. Left around 12/1 and got almost to Denver. I’ve been recording the mpg on every tank. I’ve only filled up twice (not including when I left). I’ll share it at the end of the trip. So far everything is looking good. No overheating and the oil pressure is at 30 when driving down the highway. I’m keeping it under 65. Hasnt burned out or anything.Hopefully everything goes smooth all the way home.
I’ll give you all another update tomorrow.

ohh, and the graph for the zerk locations worked for my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got a grease gun and a tube of grease and filled them. Two of them were cracked so the grease just leaked out.
View attachment 341988
the same one on the other side did the same thing.
Other than that, I topped off all the fluids. The tranny fluid was a little low but that’s it. I didn’t end up doing new spark plugs and wires or belts.

I ended up packing up and leaving shortly after. Left around 12/1 and got almost to Denver. I’ve been recording the mpg on every tank. I’ve only filled up twice (not including when I left). I’ll share it at the end of the trip. So far everything is looking good. No overheating and the oil pressure is at 30 when driving down the highway. I’m keeping it under 65. Hasnt burned out or anything.Hopefully everything goes smooth all the way home.
I’ll give you all another update tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I’m heading from Colorado to Vegas. If anyone is on the way, I’d be cool if you could message me just in case there’s a case of PID (Pimp In Distress)
 

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I don't see a crack in the picture you posted... they only hold so much grease, then the old stuff usually gets pushed out first. Since the pic seems to have only clean stuff coming out, they were probably pretty dry and the joints may need replacing.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
I’m having trouble in the Utah mountains. I’m pretty sure the carb isn’t getting enough air. Where can I adjust to make it work better? Please be descriptive so I know what to adjust.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@BigPapa It says “computer adjusted”. I don’t think this truck is computer adjusted. Plus, it isn’t a CA truck. It’s federal emissions.
Going over hills sucked. It started in Colorado. I was going up around 30 at the lowest up hills. Added an extra 2 hours to the day. I’m not sure if it is the small engine or the carb adjustments. I’d say both but there could be some improvements with adjustments. Sometimes on the highway it wouldn’t go over 55. I’m not sure yet. My main goal is to get home so I wasn’t willing to make adjustment without the knowledge.
I’m considering efi. Especially since I like to move around. I just don’t like the fact that it’s not fixable on the side of the road (even tho I don’t know how to adjust a carb anyway).

@Rhotpursuit I’m not sure how the “I guess I would call them boots” are suppose to fit. So it’s normal for the grease to come out of the bottom like in the photo? I figured it was kinda like a balloon.

Next is the home stretch.
See you all soon!!!!!
 

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‘95 LS 2.2L Manual
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No, what it says is “The only exception is the California closed loop (Computer Command Control) which is self compensating for altitude.” That means that the TSB applies to everything BUT California trucks. The issue is air density, less air at higher altitudes.

Did you notice how your ears start hurting the higher you go and will “pop” when pressure finally equalizes? Your body is self compensating. Since your truck isn’t a CA truck with computer control, it has to be manually or mechanically compensated. I doubt you caused any damage on your trip, but if you moved to a higher elevation you would have to have your truck modified or it would cause damage.


The boots on your tie rod ends are designed to hold the grease in and keep dirt out. As MBP told you, the joint is designed to allow fresh grease in through the grease fitting (zerk) and push OLD grease out where yours are “leaking”. Since you have fresh grease coming out, the joint hasn’t been greased regularly and what little grease is in the joint has dried up. The joint needs to be replaced. When the joint has been properly maintained, you only need to put enough grease in to see the boot expand just a wee bit. As it all ages, the boot hardens, loses it’s seal, and won’t expand but just allows grease to squirt out as in your pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cool, thanks for the explination @BigPapa ! So I need a new carb to actually adjust anything is what I'm pretty sure you're saying. Honestly, I like keeping things original but don't want to go through that again! now I know why people say the og Rochester carb is junk. I think I'm gonna look into getting something different but we'll cross that bridge later. I also didn't know that about the grease. Ther boots are more of a cover than an actual sealed balloon. So, am I able to just change the rubber boot, or do I actually have to change the whole bar with the zerk?

Well, today marks the first time I'll be home for the first time in almost two years. I'm about 5 hours away (unless there's hills). Overall, the truck runs amazing! No overheating or anything. The steering is a little crazy but what can you expect from an old car. The MPG didn't go down very much ether considering all the carb problems.

My grandmas car is taking a dump so this truck is probably going to end up being hers for a while. I have a new project to show you all. Plus there's going to be some work on this truck as well.

Ill give you all the final trip experience when I'm back in the motherland!j

Later and thanks,
Yowakawaka
 

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How did you get that I'm saying you need a new carb? The issue is a change to your fuel/air mixture. At higher altitudes you get less air, just like a pilot having to use oxygen at high altitudes and football players having a problem breathing at Mile High Stadium in Denver, the air is thinner. I posted the only TSB I could find on the issue. Unless your truck is a California model all you can do is adjust the idle speed up and maybe adjust the timing, neither of which I would do just for a trip over the Rockies.

You can replace the boots but that will not change the fact that the joints have no grease in them and you can't get fresh grease in them. You need to replace the ball joints, tire rod ends, etc. Whatever has play in it or if they just pass the fresh grease instead of pumping out the old grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited by Moderator)
@BigPapaI got a lot to learn. I thought the carb adjusted the air and fuel mixture. Say like a choke would hold open the flap to give the engine more air during a cold start.

Took a few days to get settled in and get the truck refreshed with an oil change And cleaning. Here’s a photo of the MPG on the trip.
386904AD-7808-403C-A4E4-6E216E43C211.jpeg

I can’t believe it did so well. I saved all the receipts. The total was $233.41 for gas.
 

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Awww..you ain't got shit!
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Is that like 1600 miles in an 83 carbureted S-10? That's pretty ballsy. I'm impressed.

If it were me? Do what I did. Find you some stock stuff from some later s-10s and convert it to EFI. May take you a while to find a complete system but swap it over. Use stuff from about 88-93 if you can. Course all the hard parts are interchangeable, but harnesses vary a little. Grab the serpentine accessories too. Best thing I ever did for my old truck. Better starts, better mileage, better idling....less fuss. Study a wiring diagram thoroughly first. Use a standalone harness for the EFI and go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@jimmykicker yup! Old setup is doing me good.
I thought about swapping to a Weber or doing what you said. The only thing I’m worried about is smog checking it after. If it’ll pass, then I’ll do it. It’s just a matter of research or finding someone who’s done it and felt with smog checks. I’ve even considered a holly sniper. If I do go with a new carb/sniper, I think I’d want to put a different intake manifold so it’ll fit a 4 barrel carb. Anyone ever made the swap and passed smog after???
 

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My guess is that if the truck passes smog with a 2SE carb, it should not have any trouble passing with a much more clean burning EFI system. I'd look at buying a complete 88 on truck with a blown engine, getting what you need, and selling the body to someone wanting to do a V8 swap. Everyone wins, and you'd basically get your parts for nothing. Another gentleman on here took the complete wiring from the donor truck and swapped it in. The old dash can still be used with some really easy mods too.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
@jimmykicker this truck has never been in California it had to have a smog check. I’m gonna let the Iowa tags run out till I even try. I’m not sure what it’s gonna take make it pass yet but that’s a good Idea!
 
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