Your headin down a road of considerably work, modification that won't be inexpensive ( if that was a goal)
Resurrecting a 2.8L?
I'm in the process of rebuilding an '88 S15 (new 350 engine, new 700R4 trans). I bought a second S10 for miscellaneous parts that had no engine, trans or driveshaft. I think someone had dropped a big block into it at one time. The 2.8 I pulled out of my S15 wasn't running according to the owner. So, if I strip the 2.8 down to the long block, what it the simplest way I can get the engine back into service? Is there a carb that will fit the existing manifold? Will the distributor work or do I need to drop something else in? I'm good on old school 350's but know nothing about these little guys. (Thinking of giving this to a neighbor that needs basic transportation).
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Not useful, PeteD. I've looked around at vehicles for less than $5k and there's nothing out there in reasonable condition. Do you send a truck to the graveyard just because the engine crapped out? I've got lots of left over parts from 2 vehicles that I can put to use and a vehicle with title. So with free labor how can I get this back to useable condition?
Reads like ur familiar with task @ hand.Not useful, PeteD. I've looked around at vehicles for less than $5k and there's nothing out there in reasonable condition. Do you send a truck to the graveyard just because the engine crapped out? I've got lots of left over parts from 2 vehicles that I can put to use and a vehicle with title. So with free labor how can I get this back to useable condition?
Time to get project underway til it's done and runs as wished. Enjoy the journey.
You got several options for carburetors. Simplest is the Weber conversion. Not terribly expensive and basically a bolt on. You can also get a Edelbrock intake and put a 390cfm carb on it. That option yields a considerable performance gain. Considerable. Some folks will tell you that it won't make much difference, but those people haven't had one on their truck either. @Mad Max will tell you, it's like a different truck. Mine was. The first time I touched the gas the tires broke loose. My truck wouldn't spin a tire in pothole full of water and oil, turned hard, power braked and on a hill before. But unfortunately that route isn't cheap anymore. I bet it's a $700 for the parts now. Whatever you do, don't get a stock 82-85 intake and put a Rochester on it. The truck struggles to breathe with that option. Since the 2.8 is TBI you could probably pretty easily fabricate an adapter plate for it and put the Weber on it. It flows a lot better than 82-85 intake. I'd do that before I'd use a stock old one built for the stock carb. Oh, and if you go carb option you need a 82-85 distributor. Rock Auto sells new units. Hope that helps.
That's good information, jimmykicker. Person I bought it from hadn't figured out it's issues. Guess I need to run a compression test on it before I get into moving to a carb and distributor option.
Is there a good swap to carb post (without having to dig through bunches of misc info)?
It's a very straight forward swap.
JK is right.
I'm pretty sure there are some You tube vids of the swap
I'm currently doing one to a project truck I have.
Go to Member's Projects and look a the "Next One"
JK is right.
I'm pretty sure there are some You tube vids of the swap
I'm currently doing one to a project truck I have.
Go to Member's Projects and look a the "Next One"
Appreciate your reference, Mad Max, but a little deficient on detail. I've spent literally hundreds of hours researching a V8 conversion with no computer, a Painless harness, Intellitronix custom gauge set, etc. Hoping to avoid that much investment of time researching this one.
Ya, always great idea to see if 'lung' still in good shape 1st.That's good information, jimmykicker. Person I bought it from hadn't figured out it's issues. Guess I need to run a compression test on it before I get into moving to a carb and distributor option.
Definitely. A compression test will tell your pretty much what the health of the motor is. I'd say go for a 3.4 if I was gonna throw some cash at it, and you already have it out. Even if you just find a short block. You can use your 2.8 heads. They are the same for sure after 87ish as the 3.4. It's a big difference in power for sure too. Not that the 2.8 is all that terrible with a better fuel system. It pulls really good but runs out of steam at high RPM where the 3.4 just keeps pulling hard. Now @Mad Max will tell you, that a good cam can yield some seriously good results pretty dang close to a 3.4, so there's that option. Damanx did a 3.4 with the 4.3 TBI sitting on the open plenum 4bbl Edelbrock top and had good results too. Look around and see if you can't find a used one. Good luck though. They are seriously not available new anymore I don't think. If it was me? I'd consider making an adapter plate if you are going carb. The EFI intake flows much better IMO. Just a casual look at it will show you it's a much better design. Oh and whatever you do, put a new timing set on it. Mine was so worn out in my 2.8 I can't believe it wasn't hitting the cover.That's good information, jimmykicker. Person I bought it from hadn't figured out it's issues. Guess I need to run a compression test on it before I get into moving to a carb and distributor option.
As someone who just went through a 2.8 complete rebuild I do have some insights - or at least opinions.
The biggest question, for me, is what are you planning to put it into? If it is a TBI engine (I assume it is because you asked about a carb swap) and you are going back into a TBI/ECM controlled S10, then I would just do a stock rebuild and drop it in.
I researched this stuff a lot, but this is the first I’m hearing about a “drop-in” carb. These guys know a LOT more about this stuff than I do, but if it’s a TBI manifold there’s nothing I know of that will just bolt in (but i’m curious to know what will).
If you modify the engine much you will not be able to use the stock ECM and that is where things go sideways. At the very least you will need to get an aftermarket 700R4 TCC unit to lockup the torque converter. Air conditioning, cruise control, and other items may all be affected once you bypass the ECM.
I had to stalk an Edelbrock manifold on eBay as they are not made any more. You are going to pay in the $400 - $500 for a used unit. Also note that that intake is 2-piece and you will need to make sure you get the 4bbl riser and not the 2bbl (unless you just go with a 2bbl carb - the Holley 2300 is a good choice with that riser). You will also have to fabricate a TV mounting plate as none of the aftermarket ones worked for me. Watch your hood clearance, though.
Regarding the distributor, the stock unit is for EFI only, and no one makes a carb/HEI version except for maybe DUI. Their site looks like they might be able to make one but it’s not clear - you’d need to call them. And it will be expensive.
In the end I had to fabricate an adapter and go with a Holley Sniper on the Edelbrock intake. I found a NOS reman’ed crank from a 3.1 (bolts in with 3.1 pistons) and will up your compression a bit.
I got an updated cam from Schneider Cams. They are very helpful and knowledgeable about these engines. Comp makes roller tip rockers.
I spent a lot of money on my rebuild (not even counting the Sniper). As others have said, this thing pulls like crazy off the line, then gives up around 3200 RPM.
I do have one of the Edelbrock manifolds (used in good shape) and 2bbl risers (brand new) that I am about to sell. If you want to go the performance TBI route, I also have a TBI intake and throttle body that have been bored for more air flow (by me - not a machine shop) that would need new injectors - but going that route will lead you down a very difficult ECM path.
long post - sorry! But as I just got through this I have a lot to share. And I’m still fixing issues.
if you have any questions feel feee to reach out.
—Ron
The biggest question, for me, is what are you planning to put it into? If it is a TBI engine (I assume it is because you asked about a carb swap) and you are going back into a TBI/ECM controlled S10, then I would just do a stock rebuild and drop it in.
I researched this stuff a lot, but this is the first I’m hearing about a “drop-in” carb. These guys know a LOT more about this stuff than I do, but if it’s a TBI manifold there’s nothing I know of that will just bolt in (but i’m curious to know what will).
If you modify the engine much you will not be able to use the stock ECM and that is where things go sideways. At the very least you will need to get an aftermarket 700R4 TCC unit to lockup the torque converter. Air conditioning, cruise control, and other items may all be affected once you bypass the ECM.
I had to stalk an Edelbrock manifold on eBay as they are not made any more. You are going to pay in the $400 - $500 for a used unit. Also note that that intake is 2-piece and you will need to make sure you get the 4bbl riser and not the 2bbl (unless you just go with a 2bbl carb - the Holley 2300 is a good choice with that riser). You will also have to fabricate a TV mounting plate as none of the aftermarket ones worked for me. Watch your hood clearance, though.
Regarding the distributor, the stock unit is for EFI only, and no one makes a carb/HEI version except for maybe DUI. Their site looks like they might be able to make one but it’s not clear - you’d need to call them. And it will be expensive.
In the end I had to fabricate an adapter and go with a Holley Sniper on the Edelbrock intake. I found a NOS reman’ed crank from a 3.1 (bolts in with 3.1 pistons) and will up your compression a bit.
I got an updated cam from Schneider Cams. They are very helpful and knowledgeable about these engines. Comp makes roller tip rockers.
I spent a lot of money on my rebuild (not even counting the Sniper). As others have said, this thing pulls like crazy off the line, then gives up around 3200 RPM.
I do have one of the Edelbrock manifolds (used in good shape) and 2bbl risers (brand new) that I am about to sell. If you want to go the performance TBI route, I also have a TBI intake and throttle body that have been bored for more air flow (by me - not a machine shop) that would need new injectors - but going that route will lead you down a very difficult ECM path.
long post - sorry! But as I just got through this I have a lot to share. And I’m still fixing issues.
if you have any questions feel feee to reach out.
—Ron
I think he'd be fine on the AC and the cruise. The cruise unit is totally mechanical I'm pretty sure on both trucks. The only information the ECM tells the engine is that the AC is on and to kick up the idle. A properly equipped carb will do that, albeit more crudely. In my case I used a stock intake that was bored out to match a 4.3 TBI unit that has 4.3 injectors in it. The ECM tune works, but it's FAR from optimal. I have to run premium or it spark knocks like a mofo. So, yeah, there are hurdles for sure.As someone who just went through a 2.8 complete rebuild I do have some insights - or at least opinions.
The biggest question, for me, is what are you planning to put it into? If it is a TBI engine (I assume it is because you asked about a carb swap) and you are going back into a TBI/ECM controlled S10, then I would just do a stock rebuild and drop it in.
I researched this stuff a lot, but this is the first I’m hearing about a “drop-in” carb. These guys know a LOT more about this stuff than I do, but if it’s a TBI manifold there’s nothing I know of that will just bolt in (but i’m curious to know what will).
If you modify the engine much you will not be able to use the stock ECM and that is where things go sideways. At the very least you will need to get an aftermarket 700R4 TCC unit to lockup the torque converter. Air conditioning, cruise control, and other items may all be affected once you bypass the ECM.
I had to stalk an Edelbrock manifold on eBay as they are not made any more. You are going to pay in the $400 - $500 for a used unit. Also note that that intake is 2-piece and you will need to make sure you get the 4bbl riser and not the 2bbl (unless you just go with a 2bbl carb - the Holley 2300 is a good choice with that riser). You will also have to fabricate a TV mounting plate as none of the aftermarket ones worked for me. Watch your hood clearance, though.
Regarding the distributor, the stock unit is for EFI only, and no one makes a carb/HEI version except for maybe DUI. Their site looks like they might be able to make one but it’s not clear - you’d need to call them. And it will be expensive.
In the end I had to fabricate an adapter and go with a Holley Sniper on the Edelbrock intake. I found a NOS reman’ed crank from a 3.1 (bolts in with 3.1 pistons) and will up your compression a bit.
I got an updated cam from Schneider Cams. They are very helpful and knowledgeable about these engines. Comp makes roller tip rockers.
I spent a lot of money on my rebuild (not even counting the Sniper). As others have said, this thing pulls like crazy off the line, then gives up around 3200 RPM.
I do have one of the Edelbrock manifolds (used in good shape) and 2bbl risers (brand new) that I am about to sell. If you want to go the performance TBI route, I also have a TBI intake and throttle body that have been bored for more air flow (by me - not a machine shop) that would need new injectors - but going that route will lead you down a very difficult ECM path.
long post - sorry! But as I just got through this I have a lot to share. And I’m still fixing issues.
if you have any questions feel feee to reach out.
—Ron
This truck has none of the computer electronics. Is there a stand alone controller for the TBI? Gauge cluster is torn out so I need to go with old school gauges.
Hmmm… so it was a carbureted truck? Or TBI but the electronics are missing? Could you attach a photo of the intake? Or at least the years of the truck(s) and engine(s)!that are in the mix?This truck has none of the computer electronics. Is there a stand alone controller for the TBI? Gauge cluster is torn out so I need to go with old school gauges.
There is an ECU called Magasquirt that is very popular. diyautotune.com is a good place to start, and the pre-sales folks are very helpful. There is also Speeduino…. It’s open source, and cheap, but I could never get it to work.
going old school gauges with TBI will have a few challenges. If the truck was originally carb’ed then you’re probably fine. If you have pre-1989 TBI then you have a speedometer cable, but also a digital pickup in the instrument panel that sends the signal that the ECM needs. After 1988 the speedo feed is all digital. There are various converters out there that might get you the combo you need, but it’s tricky.
I agree if he runs a carb, but it sounded like maybe he wants to go with the TBI. And based on the ECM/ECU and what year truck he’s going into… I can see issues with VSS/cruise compatibility, and AC kick if non-carbureted, etc.I think he'd be fine on the AC and the cruise.
im just thinking about those “hurdles” you mentioned and the cost/complexity I went through - and still with unresolved issues, many of which are related directly to the 2.8 and its “uniqueness”…
Per my initial post this is a 1988 S15 engine going into a 1988 S10 truck.
![Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior]()
I am really looking for an inexpensive way to get my leftover parts assembled into a reliable vehicle for a neighbor. I don't care what the fuel system is, I'm just looking for viable options. I will probably forgo resurrecting the AC as I could easily drop $1k in that endeavor.
I am really looking for an inexpensive way to get my leftover parts assembled into a reliable vehicle for a neighbor. I don't care what the fuel system is, I'm just looking for viable options. I will probably forgo resurrecting the AC as I could easily drop $1k in that endeavor.
Thank you for clarifying - I wasn’t clear that the 2.8 was going into the “spare” S10. I also didn’t realize you were looking for quick/budget on the second build. Now I get it!!Per my initial post this is a 1988 S15 engine going into a 1988 S10 truck.
My Chilton’s manual is for both the S10 and S15, and I haven’t seen them note any special instructions for the S15, so I think it’s safe to say that they are mechanically identical.
Do you know what engine originally came in the “spare” S10? That will have a huge impact on next steps…
When I got it, the PO had welded in motor mounts and ran it with a big block. So I need to cut out the mounts and reinstall 2.8 mounts. Now, no engine, trans or driveshaft. I doubt anything in the engine compartment is re-useable. However, I enjoy wiring (yeah, I'm nuts), have a spare bulkhead connector now and can easily repopulate the engine side of the wiring harness. Here's where I am with the S15:
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tread]()
![Wood Audio equipment Entertainment Hardwood Flooring]()
![Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
Oh, and, regarding the A/C… this unit isn’t outrageous:
You’ll also need some parts:
Of course, all the tools can be “borrowed” from AutoZone (but their vacuum pumps are terrible, so find an A/C guy with a pro pump). I installed this in my 2.8l car and it was great. Assuming your evaporator & condenser are good you can do a full rebuild for under $500. All of my vacuum actuators were good and I was able to repair the selector switch in the dash, but you’re right - it can get expensive, if you can even find the parts…
You’ll also need some parts:
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/a-c-hose-assembly?filterByKeyWord=55454
Of course, all the tools can be “borrowed” from AutoZone (but their vacuum pumps are terrible, so find an A/C guy with a pro pump). I installed this in my 2.8l car and it was great. Assuming your evaporator & condenser are good you can do a full rebuild for under $500. All of my vacuum actuators were good and I was able to repair the selector switch in the dash, but you’re right - it can get expensive, if you can even find the parts…
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