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Discussion Starter #1
Alright i ordered my High Flow Restrictor Plate from CFM technologies and i know there is a few guys in the forum who have had problems with it because if it's not a perfect cut then it will stick to the bore of the intake.

Anyways i replaced my stock restrictor plate with there's and couldn't get it to open and close properly without sticking... i had some carburator cleaner with me to see if that would help and it didn't. So now i'm just thinking of cutting the extra metal flap off the one side of my restrictor plate and save myself the trouble with installing CFM's. Do you guys think it will give me any problems if i cut that extra metal flap off my stock one?

Here is a pic of the stock restrictor plate and CFM's.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
On the stock one it's just a skinny metal curve that can be cut with a dremel... so i'm just thinking of cutting it off for some hp gains.... but i'm worried that it's there for a reason and if i mess with it i will get a SES light or my blazer xtreme will run weird afterwards.
 

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Horsepower Fiend
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I cut mine off and then just gound it down smooth without touching the butterfly. I was a noticable difference. No problems to date and it has been almost a year. Sorry to hear that you bought something that didnt work.
Don
 

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dont modify the stock one. i went through the same trouble you did. once i put the plate on it stuck on one side more than the other and it would keep the throttle open at all times just a little bit (really hard on the brakes). anyways i just bored the hole out a little on the plate so it was centered and i rounded the corners of the plate a little with some sandpaper and now its working fine. one of my friends did the mod with his stock plate and with the two holes left over it wouldnt rev under 1200 at idle. he ended up sealing the holes and then it was fine, but he still wants to buy the cfm plate. its definetely a excellent modification imo.
 

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i'd say it gives you better throttle response, and better power on top end. probably knocked about .15 - .2 tenths off my 1/4 time
 

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What I tell people who want to do it, drill out the stock rivets using a 3/16's bit. That way later if you dont like it you can reinstall the piece. You'll need to JB Weld the center hole and redrill it to 1/16th or so to match the stock defuser hole idle allowance. Use can use 2 screws, short and nuts for the other holes and damage the threads projecting past the nuts so they can come off without some work. With the CFM plate, did you tighten the screws in the closed position. Plus the stock plate wears a pattern in which the CFM one will get stuck into most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Moodyracing said:
I cut mine off and then just gound it down smooth without touching the butterfly. I was a noticable difference. No problems to date and it has been almost a year. Sorry to hear that you bought something that didnt work.
Don
Where did you relocate your air temp sensor to? i'm just trying to do some cheap mods that help out a lot with my blazer. I want to get some march pullies and also i've heard that putting a new 180 temp in helps but i dunno where to get that.
 

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Horsepower Fiend
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Very noticeable in throttle response. Much better flow into motor
 

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digital_xtreme said:
thats pretty good, i just don't understand why the stock restrictor plate has that metal curve in the first place?
Due to the location of the throttle body is why. The throttle body sits forward on the plenum and its location with a full size front bore will allow more air to flow at the front cylinders than the rear. The rears have to overcome the vacuum created by the front cylinders to draw the air back. So they adopted this plate to create and imbalance within the bore forcing more air rearward to eliminate this problem.The fillsize trucks also have this plate, but its half the size due to its CFM needs!
 

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Horsepower Fiend
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I have a cone K&N style filter on the ned of my intake. I lengthend the AIT wires and installed it in the top of the filter. So now it is reading much a cooler air temp. Noticeable difference when this was done also. Just remember, you wont be able to run regular gas anymore or else the motor will knock.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Alright i'm gonna go out and get some sand paper to try to work on the CFM restrictor plate that i bought so that it won't stick.

Moodyracing do you have any pics? I run premium in my blazer so i should be good. I installed the whole K&N FIPK kit, what did you use to cover up the whole where the sensor used to be? And where exactly is it relocated?
 

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Horsepower Fiend
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I used a rubber plug for now. I have been meaning to build another intake but have been busy.

I relocated the sensor all the way at the end of the intake on the top rubber part of the filter.
 

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the cpu will eventually relearn the IAT mod, just give it a little time.
 

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It will only relearn itself if the temperatures go back to near factory ranges. The temps they are at now, are way cooler than that. It will not relearn but recalibrate. Thats why regular gas does not work.
 

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MuddyS10 said:
the cpu will eventually relearn the IAT mod, just give it a little time.
If your using a resistor or along that lines, 100% yes. The relocation wont be phased out since its a variable reading. Only if the OBD detects a problem with the reading where it might ping will it adjust for it and using premium gas supports it better. Where the resistor pins the OBD input at 59 degrees and high ambient temps will cause some ping and the reading will slowly be learned and new maps determined, this relocation will waver since ambient keeps changing , not adding too extreme a timing advancement. Your looking at around 1 degree advancment over the stock location , which isnt much , but every little mit can help.
 

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Horsepower Fiend
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Every little bit helps in the end.
 
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