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bitch
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
this sucks. i replaced my oil sending unit today in hopes of getting the warm oil pressure up from 20 psi and idle at around 12-15. ok, so i replace it. at first the oil pressure is great. it looked very promising. i drive down the road and hit the highway, still lookin good, its at about 40 psi warmed up. so i get off the highway and go home, the pressure is goin down slowly. i pull into my driveway and stop, the pressure actually dropped down into the red and the check engine light came on befor i cut it off.

the only thing i can think of now is the oil pump. if that was going bad would that cause the pressure to suck?
 

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Registered Abuser
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2,375 Posts
bad bearings are usually the problem with low oil pressure.
How many miles? what kinda oil do you use? have any leaks anywhere externaly?
 

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bitch
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7,884 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
erronisme said:
bad bearings are usually the problem with low oil pressure.
How many miles? what kinda oil do you use? have any leaks anywhere externaly?
bad bearings:eek:.....just turned 57k miles, never ran hard. always used castrol 10w-30 and never had an oil leak of any kind.

i recently found a bulletin about chevy recalling some defective 2.2s from 94-97. but the recall was good for 5 years or 100,000 miles. ok, so its been 6 years. crap.

since the truck was new its always had that knock. it doesn't do it when its cold, only after its warmed up and i always thought it was the bad egr gasket.
 

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bitch
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7,884 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
adam728 said:
Could be that the pump screen is gummed up and the oil pump can't produce enough pressure. Or you may have a bearing going and that is the knock and reason for low pressure. Either way you gotta pull your oil pan... so get out there!
well shit the bed
 

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Always Dreamin Big
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2,300 Posts
Shit the bed all you want, you still gotta get out there and do it!!!

Just don't make the mistake made today by a certian MTU 4 Wheeler member, he put his oil pan back on with a nice new pretty gasket and while cleaning up spotted his oil pump sitting on the work bench still. Or you could be Diditshue and put your transy and transfer case in today only to remember you didn't put the pilot bushing in. It was a great day at the wheeler house today. :)
 

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bitch
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7,884 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
adam728 said:
Shit the bed all you want, you still gotta get out there and do it!!!

Just don't make the mistake made today by a certian MTU 4 Wheeler member, he put his oil pan back on with a nice new pretty gasket and while cleaning up spotted his oil pump sitting on the work bench still. Or you could be Diditshue and put your transy and transfer case in today only to remember you didn't put the pilot bushing in. It was a great day at the wheeler house today. :)
anyway to test to see if the main bearing is the cause of the low pressure without pulling the engine? as of now that is what i'm leaning toward because oil is being pumped to the engine. i can rev it and get 40 psi after is warmed up. just don't let it bog down because the pressure goes below 10 psi.

say it is the main bearings. who makes them? best brand etc etc. i can get discounts through work.
 

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.......¯\(O_o)/¯.......
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3,477 Posts
Only way to see if its the bearings, is pull the motor, remember that black cutlass I was driving, thats what happened to it the first few days I had it, only way way to find out, is pull the oil pan, you might be able to see from there....
 

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Big Engine, Little Truck
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639 Posts
You can pull the bearings from the bottom without taking out the engine. Drop the pan and pull the main caps. Turn the crankshaft by hand and the bearings will just about fall out in your hands (You may have to shake the rods a little bit). Lube and replace the bearings (you will again have to turn the crank by hand again), torque up the main caps and reinstall the oil pan. Will it be easy? NO. Will it be fun? No. Will it save you about $500? Yes.
 

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the only way to get the oil pan off is to pull the engine.

The first step in both my manuals say " first remove the engine"

Do you have smoke comming out of your exhasut pipe? And do you ever loose oil, so that you have to check your oil level all the time?
Do you ever have oil in the coolent or coolent in the oil?
 

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bitch
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Discussion Starter #13
erronisme said:
the only way to get the oil pan off is to pull the engine.

The first step in both my manuals say " first remove the engine"

Do you have smoke comming out of your exhasut pipe? And do you ever loose oil, so that you have to check your oil level all the time?
Do you ever have oil in the coolent or coolent in the oil?
no smoke, no loss of oil, and no checking the oil everyday to see blah blah blah. at my last oil change 3k miles ago i noticed an insy bit of metal dust on the magnet. i've heard thats normal wear and that bad.
 

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it can be both...normal wear will have some, depending on driving conditions, mileage and drivers foot.
Can be bad if there is alot and your oil changes are normal and the drain plug magnet is cleaned every time.

If there are chunks bigger than the usual powdery type then its cause for concern.

I would suggest before attempting to fix it yourself, have a shop look at it. Some will/can give you an estimate and also tell you what is wrong.

I'd hate to tell you that it's the bearings, and then it wind up being a faulty oil pump (even though its new), or the oil pump wasnt put on correctly and its leaking internaly or anything along those lines.
 

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If you did your own oil sending unit, then you can tell us better than anyone IF the engine has to be pulled or not to get the oil pan off.

Ive looked at mine and I dont see anyway to get around the crossmember and suspension.

If you can get yours off, then changing the bottem end bearings wont be very hard. Just need a torque wrench, the torque pattern and the torque for all the bolts.
 

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bitch
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Discussion Starter #16
erronisme said:
it can be both...normal wear will have some, depending on driving conditions, mileage and drivers foot.
Can be bad if there is alot and your oil changes are normal and the drain plug magnet is cleaned every time.

If there are chunks bigger than the usual powdery type then its cause for concern.

I would suggest before attempting to fix it yourself, have a shop look at it. Some will/can give you an estimate and also tell you what is wrong.

I'd hate to tell you that it's the bearings, and then it wind up being a faulty oil pump (even though its new), or the oil pump wasnt put on correctly and its leaking internaly or anything along those lines.
i work at a shop so i can fix it for basically free other than the cost of parts.
 
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