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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
99 Zr2, 4.3, auto trans., 4wd, np-233 what's the process? What are things to pay attention to , what kit to use and where to find it? Thanks 馃憤.
 

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I've found that it is better to replace the entire control arms for this process depending on the price of them. You will have new ball joints also. I prefer the better Moog units for my stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Right on, they have a huge selection of upper and lower a-arms on rockauto. How many hours are we looking at? And anything that you guys can think of that makes disassembly smoother and the reassembly more solid and smoother? I'd appreciate it.
 

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IIRC lower control arms on that era ZR2 can be confusing to order correctly. There are 2 different locations for the sway bar bushing tabs. To make it worse the manufacturers don't always post the correct picture or part numbers. It seems they are more confused about which ones fit which trucks than the owners are.
This might shed a little lite on the subject:
If you Google ZR2 lower control arms there are many more sites that discuss the situation.
You'll need to look carefully at where the sway bar mount is on your trucks lower arms and order the same ones regardless of whether the description says ZR2 or not. Your best bet will be to order them from a local brick and mortar store and you can see them when they come in. Then either buy them or have them re-order the correct ones. After looking at yours you'll know instantly if they're correct or not.
 

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I had rusty RWD upper and lower control arms from one of my S-trucks abrasive blasted after stripping them of everything. Painted them. I have all materials on hand to rebuild them. I will eventually do that. However, I wish I would not have bothered: far too much hassle with little money saved after buying Moog CK/K series and Delphi components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
IIRC lower control arms on that era ZR2 can be confusing to order correctly. There are 2 different locations for the sway bar bushing tabs. To make it worse the manufacturers don't always post the correct picture or part numbers. It seems they are more confused about which ones fit which trucks than the owners are.
This might shed a little lite on the subject:
If you Google ZR2 lower control arms there are many more sites that discuss the situation.
You'll need to look carefully at where the sway bar mount is on your trucks lower arms and order the same ones regardless of whether the description says ZR2 or not. Your best bet will be to order them from a local brick and mortar store and you can see them when they come in. Then either buy them or have them re-order the correct ones. After looking at yours you'll know instantly if they're correct or not.
Thanks, I started thinking about that last night; the zr2 are wider, need longer cv-axel and other things unique to the sub-model. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
IIRC lower control arms on that era ZR2 can be confusing to order correctly. There are 2 different locations for the sway bar bushing tabs. To make it worse the manufacturers don't always post the correct picture or part numbers. It seems they are more confused about which ones fit which trucks than the owners are.
This might shed a little lite on the subject:
If you Google ZR2 lower control arms there are many more sites that discuss the situation.
You'll need to look carefully at where the sway bar mount is on your trucks lower arms and order the same ones regardless of whether the description says ZR2 or not. Your best bet will be to order them from a local brick and mortar store and you can see them when they come in. Then either buy them or have them re-order the correct ones. After looking at yours you'll know instantly if they're correct or not.
This only applies to the lower arms right? I can get any 4wd compatible upper arm, correct? Thanks.
 

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Correct.
 
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Be cautious of Moog upper control arm bushings for the S10 4WD. I replaced them on my '02 Blazer a few years ago and had no problems with parts from Rock Auto. The next year I replaced them on my '98 Blazer with the same p/n from Rock Auto and damaged the control arm because the bushing was .016" too large. Checked the same Moog bushing at O'Reilly, it was too large, store brand was the right size. Went to Moog website and left a comment, and got no response. Bought two new Moog control arms and found two bushings were not fully pressed in.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Be cautious of Moog upper control arm bushings for the S10 4WD. I replaced them on my '02 Blazer a few years ago and had no problems with parts from Rock Auto. The next year I replaced them on my '98 Blazer with the same p/n from Rock Auto and damaged the control arm because the bushing was .016" too large. Checked the same Moog bushing at O'Reilly, it was too large, store brand was the right size. Went to Moog website and left a comment, and got no response. Bought two new Moog control arms and found two bushings were not fully pressed in. View attachment 354346 View attachment 354347 View attachment 354348 View attachment 354349
Interesting thanks, I was planning on going with MOOG. Now maybe Ill just fork out the extra cash for the ACDelco ones. Thanks
 

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Interesting thanks, I was planning on going with MOOG. Now maybe Ill just fork out the extra cash for the ACDelco ones. Thanks
I also should have mentioned... the Moog control arms had the right size bushings, there must have been a bad batch and some may still be out there in stock. I can't say for sure, but I think the Moog bushings are harder rubber and it seems to have a harsher ride. I would try ACDelco next time, but I don't know which will last longer, me or the Blazer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also should have mentioned... the Moog control arms had the right size bushings, there must have been a bad batch and some may still be out there in stock. I can't say for sure, but I think the Moog bushings are harder rubber and it seems to have a harsher ride. I would try ACDelco next time, but I don't know which will last longer, me or the Blazer!
Thanks, how many hours did it take roughly? And did you replace the upper and lower? I am trying to confirm the whole process. Remove brake caliper, disconnect abs and I assume wheel speed sensor, pop top ball joint and pull hub, disconnect shock and pull top bolts from top control arm sound right? And then what for the bottom control arm?
Thanks
 

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Thanks, how many hours did it take roughly? And did you replace the upper and lower? I am trying to confirm the whole process. Remove brake caliper, disconnect abs and I assume wheel speed sensor, pop top ball joint and pull hub, disconnect shock and pull top bolts from top control arm sound right? And then what for the bottom control arm?
Thanks
I don't know how many hours, I worked on it off and on for 2 or 3 days on each car. I replaced upper and lower bushings on one Blazer, the other Blazer got new upper control arms and new bushings on the lower arms. You're right on for removing the upper control arms. On the lower, remove the steering knuckle, loosen control arm bolts so it can swing down freely, there is no need to loosen or unload the torsion bar adjuster, the control arm will swing down about 45 degrees and the pressure will be off, remove the control arm bolts, lower the arm and slide it off the torsion bar. I used a ball & u-joint press set for the bushings and made some special spacers from whatever I could find at Home Depot. When you remove and install a bushing, use a spacer over the center of the bushing to keep the u-shaped stamping from bending. I made some from a thick wall PVC pipe. When installing the bearing hub, scrape and clean all rust and dirt from all the mating surfaces of the knuckle, dust plate, bearing & wheel hub flange, brake rotor, and wheel rim. Any rust or dirt build-up can distort the bearing and shorten it's life. Leave the control arm bolts loose at install, and torque to specs when it's on the ground at ride height. I never checked the caster and camber on both Blazers before I started to replace bushings, so I marked the position of the cams and reinstalled them in the same position. I did my own wheel alignment and found it was very close to factory specs and needed very little adjustment.
 

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I don't know how many hours, I worked on it off and on for 2 or 3 days on each car. I replaced upper and lower bushings on one Blazer, the other Blazer got new upper control arms and new bushings on the lower arms. You're right on for removing the upper control arms. On the lower, remove the steering knuckle, loosen control arm bolts so it can swing down freely, there is no need to loosen or unload the torsion bar adjuster, the control arm will swing down about 45 degrees and the pressure will be off, remove the control arm bolts, lower the arm and slide it off the torsion bar. I used a ball & u-joint press set for the bushings and made some special spacers from whatever I could find at Home Depot. When you remove and install a bushing, use a spacer over the center of the bushing to keep the u-shaped stamping from bending. I made some from a thick wall PVC pipe. When installing the bearing hub, scrape and clean all rust and dirt from all the mating surfaces of the knuckle, dust plate, bearing & wheel hub flange, brake rotor, and wheel rim. Any rust or dirt build-up can distort the bearing and shorten it's life. Leave the control arm bolts loose at install, and torque to specs when it's on the ground at ride height. I never checked the caster and camber on both Blazers before I started to replace bushings, so I marked the position of the cams and reinstalled them in the same position. I did my own wheel alignment and found it was very close to factory specs and needed very little adjustment.
I just remembered, you have a ZR2. Your lower control arms may be difficult to remove without unloading the torsion bar first. Something to keep in mind. Measure the length of the bolt so you can put it back in the same spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just remembered, you have a ZR2. Your lower control arms may be difficult to remove without unloading the torsion bar first. Something to keep in mind. Measure the length of the bolt so you can put it back in the same spot.
Thanks for going through the entire process with me馃憤. I think I'll get new lower control arms, so I can bypass the pressing in new bushings part, if I had a press I would be interested in doing the bushing replacement just to do it. Thanks again, running through the full process took some effort and I really appreciate it.
 

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Thanks for going through the entire process with me馃憤. I think I'll get new lower control arms, so I can bypass the pressing in new bushings part, if I had a press I would be interested in doing the bushing replacement just to do it. Thanks again, running through the full process took some effort and I really appreciate it.
You can use the tool for free on the "loan a tool program" at AutoZone, Advance, etc. Or use a threaded rod, plates, nuts, washers, and sections of muffler adapters/pipes as sleeves. Good luck!
 

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I鈥檓 also looking at replacing control arm bushings, on my 92 2wd. Would definitely give a shop a call and compare prices of pressing the individual components vs buying pre assembled arms with reputable (moog, ACDelco) ball joints, rather than trying to press them in yourself. At least for my truck came out to around $220 less in materials (all ACDelco OEM) to just replace the bushings and ball joints and reuse the control arm stampings. How much you actually save will depend on how much your local shops will charge to press them.

You could also buy/return the press kit just to remove the components and clean up the arms how you like, which will probably save a few bucks at the shop if they only have to press the new ones in (check with them when quoting)

I did ball joints but not bushings a year or so ago, due to working in a shared driveway at the time. The pressed lower ball joints were a huge PIA to install even with the c clamp style tool. I ended up needing a 4鈥 cheater bar and had to constantly 鈥渨alk鈥 the bottom side of the press around the ball joint to keep it going in straight. The adapter ended up permanently stuck in the threaded shaft on the tool lol. If the bushings are anything like as tight you鈥檒l save yourself a lot of headache just having someone do it who has a press and the right adapters already on hand.
 

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99 Zr2, 4.3, auto trans., 4wd, np-233 what's the process? What are things to pay attention to , what kit to use and where to find it? Thanks 馃憤.
Just make sure to buy the best quality parts you can afford. the difference in fitment and durability are huge. having done several front suspension overhaul I've found you really get what you pay. beware of the super low cost stuff on Evilbay or the jungle web site. Moog units are my choice, but others are just as good. look at the reviews if there are any because its a bit of a task especially if you have torsion bars. but its definitely doable with a little bit of skill and the proper tools. remember the quality of after market parts is total junk the last few years. spend a little more on the good stuff but lot less headaches down the road. be careful as I gave learned the hard way when removing the front half shafts. use the least amount of force as possible. so you don't drop the intermediate shift inside the diff . major pain if it happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Just make sure to buy the best quality parts you can afford. the difference in fitment and durability are huge. having done several front suspension overhaul I've found you really get what you pay. beware of the super low cost stuff on Evilbay or the jungle web site. Moog units are my choice, but others are just as good. look at the reviews if there are any because its a bit of a task especially if you have torsion bars. but its definitely doable with a little bit of skill and the proper tools. remember the quality of after market parts is total junk the last few years. spend a little more on the good stuff but lot less headaches down the road. be careful as I gave learned the hard way when removing the front half shafts. use the least amount of force as possible. so you don't drop the intermediate shift inside the diff . major pain if it happens
"The right solution is expensive the wrong solution costs a fortune" thanks. Yeah for the lowers I found Ac delco's for a zr2 (torsion bars). And may do moog or more acDelco up top. What tools are the right tools; what's essential vans what makes it easier thanks馃憤.
 
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