I've heard air over leaf is the best bet... you still keep the rear strength with the leafs still there... thats the setup im gonna go with... but with my blaze I cant really go 4-link/tower notch without loosing my back seats...
Air over leaf is the worst way to go. Think of how weak the leafs will be by the time you take out enough of them to lay the truck out. the axle will twist the crap out of them.
I have the Air Ride tri 4 link in my S10. I have not been to the track to test it properly, but i don't have high hopes for it. It works fine most of the time, but i just don't think the geometry is right to plant the tires enough to give me a good launch. Look at the drag race 4 links, the bars are mounted a long ways above and below the axles and the top bars are pointed down in the front. In most air setups, the link bars are mounted on short brackets so the bar is almost touching the axle. Can't get much angle on the upper bars that way. The angle between the upper and lower bars affects how it plants the tires and the theoretical intersection of the upppers and lowers is called the instant center. Drag cars usually have thier instant center around the middle of the car, but with little to no down angle on the upper bar, the instant center gets pushed way out in front of the truck, affecting tire plant. My upper bars are angled down in the front a little, but not enough.
Drag race 4 links also have heims on the bar ends and shorter bars. obviously, these 2 are not very good on a street car/truck, but they also help.
Someone help me out if my facts aren't 100% straight. I am debating changing my setup over the winter. At least getting taller brackets for the top bars to increase the down angle on them.
Hot rod....... you are pretty damn close to being on the money with your info. Although most people shoot for instant center to be somewhere around the out put shaft on the transmission and there are actually alot of cars running longer bars but it depends on where you plot your instant center to be and the angles at which the bars are run at in comparrison to each other. You will notice that on alot of prostock cars the bars are shorter but the onty effect that has is the range of travel...... they are in theory tricking the car into thinking it has longer bars.
If you plot the approach angle of your bars and can determine that by raising the top rear end mounts that you are getting closer to you goal, let me know. I might be able to make some custom upper mounts for you and you could simply cut your existing ones off and weld these on back in place.
you want to find the center of gravity. draw a line from the bottom of the back tire to the center line of the engine directly above the front wheel centerline. this line is 100% anti-squat. below is less above is more. the angle of the bars should intersect at a point 1/2 the wheelbase. if its below the imaginary line its less than 100% anti-squat and vise versa. other factors is amount of weight transfer in determining your anti-squat. a base setting would be 1/2 wheelbase, 50-75% anti-squat.
thx for the great info dooDs, i have learned alot. so it should not
be a prob with my bags over the axel running a competition 4-link
with the correct angle i should hook pretty well and still have my adjustability right ???? thanks again
correct, the only down side is that you have to run a panhard rod. which in turn will push or pull the rear to a side. you may not notice any movement until all the way up though. i would set it to center the axle at ride height and live with the movement . my ride height is with the frame 7" off ground. i can live with the 1/2" worth of movement in that 7"s.
We have a 94 Sonoma ext cab 4 cyl we are wanting to V8 and Bag on a budget I’m looking for some advice should I start on the body and bag it first or put a motor in then work on the ext.. looking for opinions and advice thank you