[99XtremeMoneypit]

99 s10 xtreme 4.3l 2wd ext cab
Just installed “little shops”
GM Late Style S10 & Midsize Rear Disc Brakes and i cant get my brake pedal to feel right. 0 air in the lines.
Ive read all sorts of things about “proportioning valves” and “abs systems” Very confused. Anyone else have the kit? What did you use to make it work? My pedal does nothing until its almost all the way to the floor and then the brakes seem to work fine.... but 90% of my pedal is dead.
Send Help 🥲

 

[Rhotpursuit]

Your abs takes care of the proportioning valve work.

 

[99XtremeMoneypit]

Your abs takes care of the proportioning valve work.

Would a abs system from a blazer that was already equipped with disc brakes work? From what i understand (wich isn’t much) my factory abs system still thinks there’s drums in the rear and therefore isn't sending enough fluid to the rear wich i assume is resulting in my terrible brake pedal (not a mechanic, just a hot rod day dreaming landscaper)

 

[Gen210]

Sounds almost as if it needs to be bled again, I put vacuum hoses on the bleeders then into large cups to drain into. Remove the reservoir lid and fill as needed over time(about 1 hour) that works for me.

 

[CruisinS10]

I agree it sounds like it needs to be bled again.
I ran into a similar issue after replacing brake lines on a Buick. It ended up being air got into the master cylinder. I had someone pump and hold the pedal while I cracked the lines loose at the master, sure enough air came out. Quick and dirty blench bleed essentially, but it did the job.

 

[oldeerslayer]

Most guys when doing rear brake repair or mods just let the fluid drip out of the lines while working on them. Problem on a S10 pickup is the main line to the rear is 1/4 and long. Plus it goes up and down a couple times. End result is a lot of air gets in those lines and can be a real PITA to bleed it all out.
I learned years ago on theses trucks if you disconnect a line to the rear, immediately plug it some how. Makes getting the air out a minor job. If the whole thing drains to the master it'll take a couple tries. A pressure bleeder makes it a lot simpler. But still take a couple tries to get all the air out.
I just replaced my 7.5/6 rear with an 8.5/6 and converted from drum to discs. When I disconnected the 2 lines going to each side of the rear end I put plastic threaded plugs into the tee fitting before unbolting it from the diff. I got those plugs in a master cylinder I bought years ago and they are the right threads for brake line fittings.
When I got the new rear end in with new lines to the sides and new calipers all I had to do to bleed them was to connect the 2 lines and open the bleeders. It gravity bled those 2 short lines. Got a good hard pedal with the 2wd drum ABS unit. I don't think they are different from drum to disc rear ends.
If you go swapping ABS pumps you'll end up with air every where and w/o a pressure bleeder and a Tech2 to bleed the ABS pump you'll create a bigger problem because now you'll have air in the fronts too.